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Hi, after succesfull body lift , ive drilled a hole for the 4x4 shifter and bended the endds away. When the rubber cover is off it it shifts in easy, but when the rubber cover is off, i struggle to get it in there and once in (4L) then ive got to hold it to keep it in there.
whats the best way (sides bending the stick) to solve this problem?
cheers :
85 MK lwb 3.3td 2 inch body lift, 32inch simex Ironman 2 inch suspension lift. 4 tonne on the clock, original donk.
Marks4wd have a new selector thingy for the transfercase selecter. That allows it to be locked into 2H, 4H and 4L.
I plan to bend mine using an oxy torch.
I undone all the screws holding the entire shroud down and moved it back about 50mm redrilled it in the new position it worked fine and you would never know it was done.
I lifted engine n gearbox 2" it was easy also gets tranfer inside chassis rails for a flat skid plate, you then have heaps of room from drive shafts to cross members n can run std rad shroud
Well, decided just to drill 1 pilot hole and bended back the edges into a small V. Slips into 4L now, though not easily, when the going gets tuff, i can just lift the boot. then slops in fine. if that anoys me enough in the long run, ill just try to bend it i recon.
Thanks again guys
85 MK lwb 3.3td 2 inch body lift, 32inch simex Ironman 2 inch suspension lift. 4 tonne on the clock, original donk.
GUJohnno wrote:Talk to Greg Smith from Smithies Outback.
There are better solutions than cutting or bending.
Pull your carpet out and have a look at the setup.
There is no need to bend or cut any leavers or boots.
Simply moving the complete trans cover by 25mm fixes all probs. All that is required is 6 self tapers.
This also saves the boot around the gear selector wearing out premature. Also means if you want to take the body lift out again in the future, you can put it back to std easily.
I have done more of these than I could bother to count, it always works.
GUJohnno wrote:Talk to Greg Smith from Smithies Outback.
There are better solutions than cutting or bending.
Pull your carpet out and have a look at the setup.
There is no need to bend or cut any leavers or boots.
Simply moving the complete trans cover by 25mm fixes all probs. All that is required is 6 self tapers.
This also saves the boot around the gear selector wearing out premature. Also means if you want to take the body lift out again in the future, you can put it back to std easily.
I have done more of these than I could bother to count, it always works.
I just pulled out my 30mm lift and installed my 50mm lift from the GU.
Modded the surround as above, very easy and great finish.
Thanks Greg.
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
nastytroll wrote:I lifted engine n gearbox 2" it was easy also gets tranfer inside chassis rails for a flat skid plate, you then have heaps of room from drive shafts to cross members n can run std rad shroud
how do you do this?
with spacers on the mounts?
its whats been holding me back doing a bodylift.
Removing a body lift from a zook, we pulled all the shrouds away, grabbed the shaft close to the base with some vice grips, held it very tight braced with both hands, then mate grabbed a piece of pipe and bent the shaft.
Worked fine, didn't snap - even on a cold Canberra evening.
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when i did mine i just got an oxy, pulled all the console out and just heated it up and bent it forard with a vice grip, works perfect for me, just keep flame small to avoid setting fire to any wires or carpet lol
, ive drilled a hole for the 4x4 shifter and bended the endds away. When the rubber cover is off it it shifts in easy, but when the rubber cover is off, i struggle to get it in there and once in (4L) then ive got to hold it to keep it in there.
