Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Female bolts to fit over captive..... for BL
bodylift bolts
The only way to get the bolts you want is to make them... just get two nuts and weld them together and then weld onto the head of a bolt.
Re: bodylift bolts
Yes, the answer is to make them, but not like this. I love my welder, but welding is not the answer to every car problem.want33s wrote:The only way to get the bolts you want is to make them... just get two nuts and weld them together and then weld onto the head of a bolt.
I cut the thread off of 16mm bolts, bore and tap them with the appropriate thread. (10X1.25) with the sleeve removed from the rubbers (this is 16mm od) this bolt fits perfectly up through the stock rubber and locates the block as well. (you will have to drill the factory washer out to 16mm, up from 10mm
The socket bolt shank ends up about 45mm long. I use construction grade (mild steel bolts) as they are easy to work with and the very deep thread engagement (over 25mm) will mean they will never fail - the stud will pull out of the floor first.
I have been building BL's this way for about 8 years and they work perfectly.
Indeed, this is also the way that Gutless, and a member from NZ build them. no cutting of studs, box section or any other ugly non reversible modifications.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I had alluminium 3" blocks made up and had them drilled so I could tap a thread into them, but well i sort of stuffed up and told them to drill them 10mm
. Too big
So then I used a 42ish mm hole saw to drill into the top of the floor so i could access the four studs you can't see, then using a 19mm hole saw (with out the drill bit in it) I was able to cut the weld around the top of the studs and now I have no more studs
some 8.8 bolts with nylocks and rubber grommets to plug the holes in the floor and i was 




God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
To the best of my knowledge Gutless (Pete) doesn't do them anymore, I got some him about a year ago. I now make them out of High Tensile bolts and can supply either full kits with poly blocks or just the female bolts. I have had them tested by a NATA test centre as well to ensure they are strong enough.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests