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What have I bent?
Moderator: -Scott-
What have I bent?
HI,
My steering wheel is about 1/8th of a turn to the left when the vehicle is going straight ahead....
Now the catch. It steers fine - hands off the wheel at 100km/h it goes straight, tie rods seem to be un bent but I am confident it turns tighter when turning right than left.
When jacked up both front wheels reach their steering stops....
I am pretty sure it happened after I hit a rock (at low speed - maybe 5km/h) that ripped the steering wheel from my hands......
Things that I have done recently (prior to the change)
new top wishbone bushes
new lower ball joints
Balll joint flip
NJ
My steering wheel is about 1/8th of a turn to the left when the vehicle is going straight ahead....
Now the catch. It steers fine - hands off the wheel at 100km/h it goes straight, tie rods seem to be un bent but I am confident it turns tighter when turning right than left.
When jacked up both front wheels reach their steering stops....
I am pretty sure it happened after I hit a rock (at low speed - maybe 5km/h) that ripped the steering wheel from my hands......
Things that I have done recently (prior to the change)
new top wishbone bushes
new lower ball joints
Balll joint flip
NJ
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
If its not the idler arm shaft, then check the drag link bar (its the bar thats goes across the back of the sump between each tie rod) from for a bend at one end.
I had this problem and caused a similar (probably worse) effect on the steering wheel positioning.
In a similar vein..... damn idler arms, I have just bent mine again (the same as above) !! has anyone had one made up of a stronger metal ? Any suggestions ?
I had this problem and caused a similar (probably worse) effect on the steering wheel positioning.
In a similar vein..... damn idler arms, I have just bent mine again (the same as above) !! has anyone had one made up of a stronger metal ? Any suggestions ?
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5L V6, 5sp manual, 3.15 low speed gears. 4.9 diffs, Factory rear locker, ARB Front Locker,
35" Mudzillas, 2" body lift, 2" suspension lift, Safari snorkel, Warn 8274 High Mount
35" Mudzillas, 2" body lift, 2" suspension lift, Safari snorkel, Warn 8274 High Mount
Banned
Dont run into stuff? lolKiwijero wrote:If its not the idler arm shaft, then check the drag link bar (its the bar thats goes across the back of the sump between each tie rod) from for a bend at one end.
I had this problem and caused a similar (probably worse) effect on the steering wheel positioning.
In a similar vein..... damn idler arms, I have just bent mine again (the same as above) !! has anyone had one made up of a stronger metal ? Any suggestions ?
Ok, cheers for suggestions however I am no closer. Had front end on stands tonight and moved wheels from one stop to the other.
Goes to steering stop (on ball joint) on one side to steering stop on the other side
Doesn't hit chassis stop on either side where pitman arm and idler arm mounts are. (normal)
Tierods and steering arm are straight
Left hand side definately comes further round (away from stop) than RHS. Can tell by the solid brake hose coming out of the calliper almost sits on top of the lower bump stop but would be half inch gap other side (can run hand through)
I am going to get a new idler arm setup tomorrow, it looks good but there is a bit of play in it - not enough to cause this
Maybe the upper or lower wishbone deformed?
I'm begining to think maybe I should take the steering wheel off, rotate it one spline then put it back on.....
NJ
Goes to steering stop (on ball joint) on one side to steering stop on the other side
Doesn't hit chassis stop on either side where pitman arm and idler arm mounts are. (normal)
Tierods and steering arm are straight
Left hand side definately comes further round (away from stop) than RHS. Can tell by the solid brake hose coming out of the calliper almost sits on top of the lower bump stop but would be half inch gap other side (can run hand through)
I am going to get a new idler arm setup tomorrow, it looks good but there is a bit of play in it - not enough to cause this
Maybe the upper or lower wishbone deformed?
I'm begining to think maybe I should take the steering wheel off, rotate it one spline then put it back on.....
NJ
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Now in my language - what is a sector shaft?J Top wrote:try checking for a twisted sector shaft spline
Today I have replaced the idler unit as it had a bit of play in it anyway and was on the to do list, where it connects to the steering arm there was a slight bend but bugger all.
I am just putting the RHS back together having done both left and right bottom ball joints.
Had a guy come and look at it today who has just retired from a chassis straightening outfit who his job was to solve this sort of puzzle and he was stumped.
The top wishbone 'A' arm I reckon is not right either. When I replaced those bushes some months ago one of them was extreemly tight and took alot of effort to press it out. This one that was tight has wrecked the replacement bush already, as in, between the two bushes is further apart on one side than the other. I wonder if when pressing it out it is no longer true.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
The sector shaft is the vertical splined shaft through the stg box.
Top arms on pajs deform when pushing or driving bushes in and out.
If the new bushes have failed already they may be binding from a misalignment of your bent top arm. Try burning out the rubber next time then just working on the outer sleeve if required for that make of bush. Some makes of urethane require burning to leave the sleeve behind for the urethane bush.
Top arms on pajs deform when pushing or driving bushes in and out.
If the new bushes have failed already they may be binding from a misalignment of your bent top arm. Try burning out the rubber next time then just working on the outer sleeve if required for that make of bush. Some makes of urethane require burning to leave the sleeve behind for the urethane bush.
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