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Quick clutch question!
Quick clutch question!
My clutch is nearly dead so i need a new one!
Is it worth getting a heavy clutch? I will be getting gears soon so may not need it?
Or just a normal clutch?
What is the best brand?
How much would i expect to pay?
THANKS HEAPS!
Is it worth getting a heavy clutch? I will be getting gears soon so may not need it?
Or just a normal clutch?
What is the best brand?
How much would i expect to pay?
THANKS HEAPS!
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Location: in the shed cutting/grinding/welding mocks old shit vic
Exeedy (spelling?) make a heavyduty clutch.
go and get one, eventhough your getting gearing. it'll give you piece on mind. especially in the mud that you drive
Mitch
go and get one, eventhough your getting gearing. it'll give you piece on mind. especially in the mud that you drive
Mitch
[quote="Gwagensteve"]
nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
[url=http://vic.suzuki4wd.com/]Suzuki 4WD club VIC[/url]
nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
[url=http://vic.suzuki4wd.com/]Suzuki 4WD club VIC[/url]
B4T - was that clutch/pressure plate and both bearings (throwout,spiggot) also in that cost i put was a flywheel machine (about 20-30 bux)
Or if u were looking at below there is no mention of brands of bearings or clutch and looks to be a std duty one.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CLUTCH-KIT-NEW-S ... dZViewItem
Or if u were looking at below there is no mention of brands of bearings or clutch and looks to be a std duty one.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CLUTCH-KIT-NEW-S ... dZViewItem
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
in perth from Hitech brake and clutch. tried to find reciept but couldnt. bout 220 - 240Mr Emu wrote:Hey Nic, where did you get your clutch from? Is that just an off the shelf price or u know a guy? I was told like $270 just for the kit
Ian
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
I am sure exeddy are a quality product, and you won't do wrong, but I am a big fan of genuine clutches - Most aftermarket clutches don't take heat as well as the stock clutch so they glaze up quicker if slipped.
In itself though , if the gearing is correct, there is no need for a "heavy duty" clutch as you won't be loading it up more than stock. I am driving all sots of stupid steepness ATM with a god knows how old 1.0 clutch and 34's because I have enough gearing I never have to slip it. (can even key start up hill!)
Suzukiboy, we have get you out of the mud and onto some actual obstacles. mud just wrecks everything and once you have driven a bit if it and stuffed enough junk under your car you will get over it.
as Cheezy once wisely sent to the poolroom....
"Mud is for people who can't drive obstacles"
Just having a stir - you'll be fine with a heavy duty quality clutch, stay away from anything like a "brass button" clutch - the drivability will suck off road.
Steve.
In itself though , if the gearing is correct, there is no need for a "heavy duty" clutch as you won't be loading it up more than stock. I am driving all sots of stupid steepness ATM with a god knows how old 1.0 clutch and 34's because I have enough gearing I never have to slip it. (can even key start up hill!)
Suzukiboy, we have get you out of the mud and onto some actual obstacles. mud just wrecks everything and once you have driven a bit if it and stuffed enough junk under your car you will get over it.
as Cheezy once wisely sent to the poolroom....
"Mud is for people who can't drive obstacles"
Just having a stir - you'll be fine with a heavy duty quality clutch, stay away from anything like a "brass button" clutch - the drivability will suck off road.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
I dont mind the factory clutch. My clutch is a "well aged"factory edition, and as Steve said, with the right gearing (bout 70:1) i never have had issues. +1 on the coping with heat issue, have seen a standard zook with the owner riding the cr*p out of the clutch, and it held up to repeated abuse.
That cheezy quote is Gold. Mud is for those that lack the ability to think in 3D
Layto....
That cheezy quote is Gold. Mud is for those that lack the ability to think in 3D
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
I like that quote more
PS - 70:1 is pretty sweet. My 1.0 runs 3.1X6.0 X4.1= 76:1 and it is the shiznit with 34 swampers. (stock 1.0 with the worlds noisiest 6:1)
With the 660 I will be 4.0 X6.4X5.12= 131:1. Should be adequate for Q78's... but I don't think I will have much wheelspeed The clutch, however, will outlast time itself (which might be how long it takes me to get up any given track
Another sweet setup for 31's- (1.0litre) 3.1X4.1X4.88 - 62:1 was a bit borderline on really steep dry stuff, but was OK. This is how Mock ran doof.
Edited to remove the alien doods
PS - 70:1 is pretty sweet. My 1.0 runs 3.1X6.0 X4.1= 76:1 and it is the shiznit with 34 swampers. (stock 1.0 with the worlds noisiest 6:1)
With the 660 I will be 4.0 X6.4X5.12= 131:1. Should be adequate for Q78's... but I don't think I will have much wheelspeed The clutch, however, will outlast time itself (which might be how long it takes me to get up any given track
Another sweet setup for 31's- (1.0litre) 3.1X4.1X4.88 - 62:1 was a bit borderline on really steep dry stuff, but was OK. This is how Mock ran doof.
Edited to remove the alien doods
Last edited by Gwagensteve on Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
3.65 (1st gear) X 2.51 (1.0 transfer) X 3.9 (NT diff centre) = 35.72 should be OK for moderately steep work, but I'm guessing in WA it is more sand and higher speed stuff, so it should be passable, and it will be fine in mud as you can build some wheelspeed.
In Vic, the party starts at about 60:1. below that, and it's ok but suffers a bit in the steep stuff.
Currenly, our tallest geared car doing the harder trips would be christover- 3.65X2.51X4.88= 44.7:1, and he feels it.
PS, your low 1st will be equal to my low 4th... like I said, I will struggle with wheelspeed!
Sorry for the hijack Suzukiboy-Take out of it that low gears = happy clutches.
Steve.
In Vic, the party starts at about 60:1. below that, and it's ok but suffers a bit in the steep stuff.
Currenly, our tallest geared car doing the harder trips would be christover- 3.65X2.51X4.88= 44.7:1, and he feels it.
PS, your low 1st will be equal to my low 4th... like I said, I will struggle with wheelspeed!
Sorry for the hijack Suzukiboy-Take out of it that low gears = happy clutches.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Yeah thought about lower diff gears but i got the lockers front and rear so tansfer gears it is and i think they work alot better as in lower?love_mud wrote:And lower diff gears = happier springs, uni's and T/case mounts from what I have seen. But T/case gears are heaps easier.
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
When you have the case out for the gears definately beef up the arms, the long arm bends and will wind up cracking in the middle and tries to egg out the mounting holes (use loctite on the bolts that go into the T\case )suzuki boy wrote:Yeah thought about lower diff gears but i got the lockers front and rear so tansfer gears it is and i think they work alot better as in lower?love_mud wrote:And lower diff gears = happier springs, uni's and T/case mounts from what I have seen. But T/case gears are heaps easier.
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
but ALWAYS use factory sierra transfer case rubber mounts, I know of someone who was breaking so many mounts (1.3, 6:1, stock diffs, 9X32 swampers) that they bought 10 "new" mounts from someone.... at $45 each.
They kept breaking, so a very elaborate capture system was welded up to surround the rubbers and hold the case in when the broke.
anyway, recently, The white sierra I posted in the WT/NT thread bent a tension side mount so badly that the rubber was about 4" long and looked like it was about to go any minute.
One of these "brand new" rubbers went in..... and lasted about 1/2 a day
So an unknown old manky mount went back in from Christovers collection of antique suzuki parts.... and it is still in the car.
Look for the Bridgestone "B" on the mounts- these are factory.
Another comment- when you beef up the arm, tie the arm in to the front output cover bolts on the case. The stock arm bends between the mounting bolts and the kink just around the front output
Steve.
They kept breaking, so a very elaborate capture system was welded up to surround the rubbers and hold the case in when the broke.
anyway, recently, The white sierra I posted in the WT/NT thread bent a tension side mount so badly that the rubber was about 4" long and looked like it was about to go any minute.
One of these "brand new" rubbers went in..... and lasted about 1/2 a day
So an unknown old manky mount went back in from Christovers collection of antique suzuki parts.... and it is still in the car.
Look for the Bridgestone "B" on the mounts- these are factory.
Another comment- when you beef up the arm, tie the arm in to the front output cover bolts on the case. The stock arm bends between the mounting bolts and the kink just around the front output
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Went to super cheap yesterday because they have the exedy clutchs!
But they no jack sh!t and couldn't help at all kept ringing people and ended up coming out with we don't have them but can get them. Then walked off so i asked for a price they rang some person and didn't even ask for a model and said $300! Don't even know if there was some one on the other end of the phone! Didn't look any thing up on te computer!
So is there any where else that stocks these clutchs because im not going supercheap!
But they no jack sh!t and couldn't help at all kept ringing people and ended up coming out with we don't have them but can get them. Then walked off so i asked for a price they rang some person and didn't even ask for a model and said $300! Don't even know if there was some one on the other end of the phone! Didn't look any thing up on te computer!
So is there any where else that stocks these clutchs because im not going supercheap!
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
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