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3.5 Rear Locker Update.
Moderator: -Scott-
3.5 Rear Locker Update.
ARB have advised me that the new rear locker for the 31 spline, 33.5mm diameter live axle version (Gen 2 3.5 V6 & 2.8TDI) is 3-4 months away.
The IRS version (Gen 3) which is 33 spline and 36mm diameter will be released sometime after the first one.
They will have different RD numbers.
They will advise as soon as the RD numbers have been allocated.
Also the Hyundai Terracan version will be released sometime later this year but this is a 34 spline, 35mm diameter live axle version of the Pajero set up.
Interestingly the diff centres are near enough the same but the side gears can be interchanged for an axle upgrade.
I'm pretty sure the Terracan axles could be used in the Paj set up.
The IRS version (Gen 3) which is 33 spline and 36mm diameter will be released sometime after the first one.
They will have different RD numbers.
They will advise as soon as the RD numbers have been allocated.
Also the Hyundai Terracan version will be released sometime later this year but this is a 34 spline, 35mm diameter live axle version of the Pajero set up.
Interestingly the diff centres are near enough the same but the side gears can be interchanged for an axle upgrade.
I'm pretty sure the Terracan axles could be used in the Paj set up.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Read my post wery wery carefully................................known 2 wrote:does that meen teracan has stronger axels?.
Yes bigger means stronger in this context.
The 3.15 manual gears are available from Mark he has worked out a mod for the selector rail. He's just done it for my 3.5 V6 5sp.
Cookie yes the Hyundai 5 link should fit under the Paj but you would need to fabricate the mounts.
I've never had a real good look at this set up.
5 link isn't always better - if the links are too short then the flex ain't there. Also I honestly can't see the point of giving the rear much more flex than standard when you have IFS.
The Paj 3 link flex's well without a swaybar and 2" longer shocks.
The problem is that they flog out the front control arm bushes and at full compression the control arm can actually push against the shock (I had dents in my rear shocks from the control arms before the SAS).
I reckon a better mod (and easier) would be to use the control arms from a coil sprung Challenger these have pivoting front mount rather than the Paj bushed arrangement (would only have to fab the front two mounts).
I'm surprised no-one has done this mod yet.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
I've got dents too - I just figured it was a hazard of no rear sway bar. You think my bushes are farked?Bitsamissin wrote:The problem is that they flog out the front control arm bushes and at full compression the control arm can actually push against the shock (I had dents in my rear shocks from the control arms before the SAS).
Most likely Scott, the first sign is the squeeking/creeking.
It also results in sloppier on road handling but it happens so slowly that you don't really notice it until you actually replace them - then wow you notice how bad they were.
The problem is that when they are worn is the time you get maximum flex and with the rear swaybar removed you can have the control arms touching the shocks on compression.
It also results in sloppier on road handling but it happens so slowly that you don't really notice it until you actually replace them - then wow you notice how bad they were.
The problem is that when they are worn is the time you get maximum flex and with the rear swaybar removed you can have the control arms touching the shocks on compression.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Last I heard something needed to be machined in the box. Is this still the case or will they fit as the 2.85's do?
How is the build coming along with your new machine Frank?
How is the build coming along with your new machine Frank?
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
i have 2" longer 41mm dia tough dog rear shocks and they are dented. still have swaybar, but with some disconnects !Bitsamissin wrote:Most likely Scott, the first sign is the squeeking/creeking.
It also results in sloppier on road handling but it happens so slowly that you don't really notice it until you actually replace them - then wow you notice how bad they were.
The problem is that when they are worn is the time you get maximum flex and with the rear swaybar removed you can have the control arms touching the shocks on compression.
cookie
99 GU Patrol Wagon 4.2td
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