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Chev/Auto for 4x4
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Chev/Auto for 4x4
Howdy all,
I currently have a 327 in my 1978 Land Cruiser 40 with the standard 4 speed manual g/box and am considering putting in an Turbo 400. Has anyone done this in their V8 4x4? Are there any issues with the conversion or driving afterwards? Especially on steep declines?
I have also been told about custom hi-stall convertors (made for modified 4x4s) which allow for a cam, but lock up early in the revs when decelerating meaning low engine speeds on declines. Has anyone heard of these or had experience? Would this stuff the engine? Due to the cost of doing the auto conversion I am hoping the custom convertor will reduce the need for Rockcrawlers gears at the moment.
Main reasons for thinking auto, is ease of driving around town, low maintenance (my clutch is about to go), cuts down wear on diffs/t.case/shafts, stall up and launch from traffic lights should be awesome!! etc
I envisage using a marks adaptor kit and modified auto sump for the install. Fabricate a rear crossmember, modify drive shafts and maybe the floor for the shifter. But I haven't done it before so I don't really know!
Any comments (constructive! ) would be appreciated!!
T.T
I currently have a 327 in my 1978 Land Cruiser 40 with the standard 4 speed manual g/box and am considering putting in an Turbo 400. Has anyone done this in their V8 4x4? Are there any issues with the conversion or driving afterwards? Especially on steep declines?
I have also been told about custom hi-stall convertors (made for modified 4x4s) which allow for a cam, but lock up early in the revs when decelerating meaning low engine speeds on declines. Has anyone heard of these or had experience? Would this stuff the engine? Due to the cost of doing the auto conversion I am hoping the custom convertor will reduce the need for Rockcrawlers gears at the moment.
Main reasons for thinking auto, is ease of driving around town, low maintenance (my clutch is about to go), cuts down wear on diffs/t.case/shafts, stall up and launch from traffic lights should be awesome!! etc
I envisage using a marks adaptor kit and modified auto sump for the install. Fabricate a rear crossmember, modify drive shafts and maybe the floor for the shifter. But I haven't done it before so I don't really know!
Any comments (constructive! ) would be appreciated!!
T.T
Hello Tonka, About 4 years ago I fitted a worked 350 with a turbo 700 and toyota transfer case into a Range Rover. I used an adapter from Marks which was superb, you have to replace the output shaft in your auto with a shorter one and leave the rear housing off.Using the adapter the new output shaft fits into the transfer and all bolts onto the auto where the rear housing goes. You shouldn't need to change much else except the lenght of the shafts, and the rear mount.
As for drivability, I'll never use a manual again. In the sand they are awesome, more control over rough terrain etc the only loss is engine braking, but the plusses!!!
I used a slightly higher stall convertor, with no lock-up and used a towing style cam.I chose that set up to give me pulling power at less revs.
Hope that helps, manyanna51
As for drivability, I'll never use a manual again. In the sand they are awesome, more control over rough terrain etc the only loss is engine braking, but the plusses!!!
I used a slightly higher stall convertor, with no lock-up and used a towing style cam.I chose that set up to give me pulling power at less revs.
Hope that helps, manyanna51
i used to own a landcruiser with the marks adapter kit for chev / turbo 400 combo. I would recomend it. The turbo 400 does have a rather high first gear and perhaps the turbo 700 would be better as it has a lower first gear as well as overdrive. Regardless of which transmission you use i recomend getting it rebuild with heavy duty clutches and shift kit. Make sure you use a cooler as suggested. I used a B & M shifter as well as a Hurst one and had problems with both eventully. Not sure what you mean with the stall converter. I used the one recomended by my transmission rebuilder which he said had a low stall speed. I also did not have the kick down solenoid fitted. The auto has a lot of advantages for 4wding when coupled with the torque from the v8.
manyanna51 wrote:Hello Tonka,
Hello.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
350 chev turbo 400 stage 2 shift kit in an eh ute (don't tell the rta)
Down hills should not be a problem if u hold it in first, try driving down the road in first get up to about 3000 rpms and back of all the way and see how much engine bracking there is and double it in low range it works
Down hills should not be a problem if u hold it in first, try driving down the road in first get up to about 3000 rpms and back of all the way and see how much engine bracking there is and double it in low range it works
if ya gona rev it, Chev it
Gday manyana52,
my cruiser has a 6.2 chevy diesel with a th350 fitted and a reduced (lower) stall converter fitted. Brilliant offroad although a little tall when coming down very steep rocky sections, but nothing a light covering of the brake doesnt fix. Climbing and rock work is awsume. Would not go back to a manual. Having said that, its not the quickest on road, but am running 39 swampers which dont help. Go the auto you'l love it and the petrol would be a whole lot revier than my diesel so should be good on road as well.
If you are going to get the box tinkered with however work out if you wont a standard for offroad or a higher stally for on road as a mate had a 350 with a high stally in it and was unreal off the lights but once the stally engaged off road it was a bit brutal in the serious stuff and worked much better in the standard form.
my cruiser has a 6.2 chevy diesel with a th350 fitted and a reduced (lower) stall converter fitted. Brilliant offroad although a little tall when coming down very steep rocky sections, but nothing a light covering of the brake doesnt fix. Climbing and rock work is awsume. Would not go back to a manual. Having said that, its not the quickest on road, but am running 39 swampers which dont help. Go the auto you'l love it and the petrol would be a whole lot revier than my diesel so should be good on road as well.
If you are going to get the box tinkered with however work out if you wont a standard for offroad or a higher stally for on road as a mate had a 350 with a high stally in it and was unreal off the lights but once the stally engaged off road it was a bit brutal in the serious stuff and worked much better in the standard form.
Hey Mav,
I whipped a PM your way. I'm definitely interested. Thanks buddy!
I know this isn't the wanted area but if anyone else knows of any T350 or T400 conversions (or poss T700 if it is cheap) for sale please feel free to post here or PM me. If in a state outside of vic I'd be happy to pay transport to get it here. Would help me alot as the cost of a new conversion is prohibitive to say the least...!!!
Thanks to 98lux and TAZZ for their stories of auto cruisin' Will keep in mind what you said about the stall...sounds like good advice. You're all making my decision alot easier!
T.T
I whipped a PM your way. I'm definitely interested. Thanks buddy!
I know this isn't the wanted area but if anyone else knows of any T350 or T400 conversions (or poss T700 if it is cheap) for sale please feel free to post here or PM me. If in a state outside of vic I'd be happy to pay transport to get it here. Would help me alot as the cost of a new conversion is prohibitive to say the least...!!!
Thanks to 98lux and TAZZ for their stories of auto cruisin' Will keep in mind what you said about the stall...sounds like good advice. You're all making my decision alot easier!
T.T
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