Welded steering arms

Post by **beebee** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 12:04 am

Is this what I think it is :?:

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/i ... ingarm.jpg

A welded steering arm :?:

Post by **cbr** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 1:57 am

beebee wrote:Is this what I think it is

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/i ... ingarm.jpg

A welded steering arm

Cheap x-over steering

Chris.

Post by **Webbie** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 6:13 am

REMEMBER just cuase its welded doesnt mean its week on da proviso its been done properly

Post by **bj on roids** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 7:54 am

OH MAN!!!

This guy was giving me shit about my car in my for sale ad. But that is just NASTY! I thought he was a reputable engineer the way he was crapping on. Talk about your backyard jobs. :armsup:

Post by **Guy** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:46 am

If it's been done right and aneeled (nice speling

) so there are no stress risers it should all be good ...
I dont think it's cheap .. think of it as good value .. :shock:

Post by **Area54** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:59 am

love_mud wrote:I dont think it's cheap .. think of it as good value ..

...and good for the earth, recycling and all that, and darwinism improving the gene pool etc it's all good. :lol:

Cast steel can be welded, under the right conditions.

Preheating, correct filler material, power settings and penetration.

but for a trail fix you can use whatever you got. You'd be surprised how strong it can be...

Post by **RUFF** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 8:13 pm

Looks just like mine and as long as it has been tested it should be no problem and it is engineerable.

Post by **Tojo** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:46 pm

the only problem i see with all the pics of the welded steering arms that i have seen is that they all use a straight gusset. I'm no expert but i thaught a curved gusset would be better. Having said that the one from superior is one of the better ones i have seen pics of.

Post by **RUFF** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:57 pm

Here is mine its been on my rig for nearly 2 years with no problems. I had it off a few weeks ago and it was still bolted down as tight as the day i fitted it.

Post by **Tojo** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:09 pm

is that both bolted and welded Ruff?

Post by **Chef** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:08 am

This was very common practive over here in the old days before billet hysteer arms. As noted, if done right, this is not a problem. Use of high nickel content rod, preheating, and "throw it in a bucket of sand to slow cool," and the results have proven themselves. I still run one...

Post by **beebee** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 1:01 pm

Tojo wrote:is that both bolted and welded Ruff?

Bolt are just clamping the arms together for fabrication purposes.

Post by **beebee** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 1:03 pm

I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

Post by **60serius** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 1:59 pm

If one dose brake in an accident on the road I hope Superior have
a good indemnity insurance policy

Post by **Tojo** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:23 pm

I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

i can understand people making their own, but yeah, why buy a welded arm when you can buy a cast one or even hi steer arms! I imagine the quality off steel in the factory toyota arms would be a higher quality than the steel used in the manufactured cast ones. As far as risk, if properly constructed and tested, then i don't see any risk at all. I have never heard of any welded arms breaking. Has anyone else ever heard of any breaking?

Post by **bubs** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:24 pm

beebee wrote:I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

chaos double arm is still $390

Post by **beebee** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 11:28 am

bubs wrote:
beebee wrote:I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

chaos double arm is still $390

I'd bet that the welded equivalent would be at least $200 :roll:

Post by **planb** » Mon Dec 22, 2003 8:01 am

i dont think ive ever seen a welded double arm break

but ive seen plenty work there way loose from the increased leverage above the hub.

Post by **beebee** » Mon Dec 22, 2003 10:47 pm

I never had any trouble with mine. Histeer wasn't readily available at the time of my crossover steering mod so I ran the welded arm for a few months until I got a proper histeer setup. Feel much safer now

Post by **Willy Hilux** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:47 pm

That Picture of the crossover arm on superiorengineering is on my truck. I laminated it with 25mm X 3mm flat all the way around. Drilled a 20mm hole in it and useing rod ends. Nothing wrong with it. Got to save money where you can.
Put it through cruiser park on new years and took all the bumps and bruisers.
Don't bag what you haven't tested. :finger:

Post by **beebee** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 11:14 pm

Willy Hilux wrote:That Picture of the crossover arm on superiorengineering is on my truck. I laminated it with 25mm X 3mm flat all the way around. Drilled a 20mm hole in it and useing rod ends. Nothing wrong with it. Got to save money where you can.
Put it through cruiser park on new years and took all the bumps and bruisers.
Don't bag what you haven't tested.

Not meaning to "bag" it as such. After all - a welded arm was good enough for me for a while.

It even got through a police roadside inspection where I was put off the road for other reasons - none of which related to the steering.

Superior are oviously confident enough in thier manufacturing process to sell them to the public.

I thought that I was saving money too but after paying someone to weld them up, I eventually changed to histeer :roll:

Post by **sierrajim** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 1:19 pm

Here's another thread dig.

I'm planning on doing a flipped welded double arm on the new project (trail rig).

So far i've cleaned, ground and prepped two arms. The questions i have are:

1. The originals have cone washers (as does the Superior double cast arm on my other car). When you do the flipped arm do you leave the cone washers in the holes? fill the tapers with weld and re drill? or just leave them?

2. Do i need to run cone washers on the top as per the factory one? or just longer studs with pinned crown nuts?

Post by **beebee** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:48 pm

I'll try to explain this as best I can....

This is really old tech from Ruff from around 2002.

1. Prep your arms for welding
2. Drill out the conical seats in the upper arm (size dependant on later steps)
3. Weld it all up with gussets etc
4. Take a 10mm threaded rod joiner, drill it out and tap it to suit the thread on the top part of the studs.
5. Attack the lower 2/3 (ish) of the outside of the nut and make it round as opposed to hexagonal. (We used a grinder - lathe would have been better)
6. When the arm is locked inplace, the round (machined) part of the nut should be a tightish fit in the clearence holes in the top arm and the bottom of the nut should seat on the cone lock.
7. Above the top arm, there should be minimal gap to the unmachined hexagonal part of the nut.

The reason for this set up is to maintain pressure on the conical seat with the bottom of the nut but should the weld break and the top arm become free, the larger head of the nut would keep the top arm from totally separating from the hub.

This could obviously be achieved by less primative means however that's all we had at the time.

Post by **sierrajim** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:54 pm

Cheers mate,

Post by **MR04WD** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:33 pm

I understand too that this may be a common way to save money & actually work,but how does a 'professional' business justify selling a 'new' product for roughly $390(thats what I paid at ORI) when they prob bought 100 of them from a wrecker at $10 each & then just gussetted them? Not so SUPERIOR in ENGINEERING after all

Website · Post by **killalux** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:47 pm

beebee wrote:I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

The off road industries arms are not available at the present time and what i have heard is they don't plan on making any more.

Post by **v840** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:51 pm

ORI is gooooooone! so I doubt they'll make anymore anything.

Post by **eliteforce32** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 8:28 pm

hey guys i hope u realise that superior engineering products are for rigs for off road only

, so why would you bag such an item??? before such people start judging (SP!). unless you work in the steel industry or fabrication in steel u really don't no squat on how things go together. im no expert and im a boily by trade but, all the stuff that comes out of superior is of hi standards. Why would they want to sell dodgy products that will ruin their own reputation in the this lucritive 4wd driving scene?DONT BAG WHAT U DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT:shock:

rant over, and by no means am i saying im an expert, just have a little insight

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