Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Is this what I think it is

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/i ... ingarm.jpg


A welded steering arm

beebee wrote:Is this what I think it is

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/i ... ingarm.jpg


A welded steering arm

Cheap x-over steering

Chris.

REMEMBER just cuase its welded doesnt mean its week on da proviso its been done properly

OH MAN!!!

This guy was giving me shit about my car in my for sale ad. But that is just NASTY! I thought he was a reputable engineer the way he was crapping on. Talk about your backyard jobs.

If it's been done right and aneeled (nice speling ) so there are no stress risers it should all be good ...
I dont think it's cheap .. think of it as good value ..

love_mud wrote:I dont think it's cheap .. think of it as good value ..

...and good for the earth, recycling and all that, and darwinism improving the gene pool etc it's all good.

Cast steel can be welded, under the right conditions. Preheating, correct filler material, power settings and penetration.

but for a trail fix you can use whatever you got. You'd be surprised how strong it can be...

Looks just like mine and as long as it has been tested it should be no problem and it is engineerable.

the only problem i see with all the pics of the welded steering arms that i have seen is that they all use a straight gusset. I'm no expert but i thaught a curved gusset would be better. Having said that the one from superior is one of the better ones i have seen pics of.

Here is mine its been on my rig for nearly 2 years with no problems. I had it off a few weeks ago and it was still bolted down as tight as the day i fitted it.

is that both bolted and welded Ruff?

This was very common practive over here in the old days before billet hysteer arms. As noted, if done right, this is not a problem. Use of high nickel content rod, preheating, and "throw it in a bucket of sand to slow cool," and the results have proven themselves. I still run one...

Tojo wrote:is that both bolted and welded Ruff?

Bolt are just clamping the arms together for fabrication purposes.

I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

If one dose brake in an accident on the road I hope Superior have
a good indemnity insurance policy

I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

i can understand people making their own, but yeah, why buy a welded arm when you can buy a cast one or even hi steer arms! I imagine the quality off steel in the factory toyota arms would be a higher quality than the steel used in the manufactured cast ones. As far as risk, if properly constructed and tested, then i don't see any risk at all. I have never heard of any welded arms breaking. Has anyone else ever heard of any breaking?

beebee wrote:I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

chaos double arm is still $390

bubs wrote:

beebee wrote:I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

chaos double arm is still $390

I'd bet that the welded equivalent would be at least $200

i dont think ive ever seen a welded double arm break

but ive seen plenty work there way loose from the increased leverage above the hub.

I never had any trouble with mine. Histeer wasn't readily available at the time of my crossover steering mod so I ran the welded arm for a few months until I got a proper histeer setup. Feel much safer now

That Picture of the crossover arm on superiorengineering is on my truck. I laminated it with 25mm X 3mm flat all the way around. Drilled a 20mm hole in it and useing rod ends. Nothing wrong with it. Got to save money where you can.
Put it through cruiser park on new years and took all the bumps and bruisers.
Don't bag what you haven't tested.

Willy Hilux wrote:That Picture of the crossover arm on superiorengineering is on my truck. I laminated it with 25mm X 3mm flat all the way around. Drilled a 20mm hole in it and useing rod ends. Nothing wrong with it. Got to save money where you can.
Put it through cruiser park on new years and took all the bumps and bruisers.
Don't bag what you haven't tested.

Not meaning to "bag" it as such. After all - a welded arm was good enough for me for a while. It even got through a police roadside inspection where I was put off the road for other reasons - none of which related to the steering.

Superior are oviously confident enough in thier manufacturing process to sell them to the public.

I thought that I was saving money too but after paying someone to weld them up, I eventually changed to histeer

Here's another thread dig.

I'm planning on doing a flipped welded double arm on the new project (trail rig).

So far i've cleaned, ground and prepped two arms. The questions i have are:

1. The originals have cone washers (as does the Superior double cast arm on my other car). When you do the flipped arm do you leave the cone washers in the holes? fill the tapers with weld and re drill? or just leave them?

2. Do i need to run cone washers on the top as per the factory one? or just longer studs with pinned crown nuts?

I'll try to explain this as best I can....

This is really old tech from Ruff from around 2002.

1. Prep your arms for welding
2. Drill out the conical seats in the upper arm (size dependant on later steps)
3. Weld it all up with gussets etc
4. Take a 10mm threaded rod joiner, drill it out and tap it to suit the thread on the top part of the studs.
5. Attack the lower 2/3 (ish) of the outside of the nut and make it round as opposed to hexagonal. (We used a grinder - lathe would have been better)
6. When the arm is locked inplace, the round (machined) part of the nut should be a tightish fit in the clearence holes in the top arm and the bottom of the nut should seat on the cone lock.
7. Above the top arm, there should be minimal gap to the unmachined hexagonal part of the nut.

The reason for this set up is to maintain pressure on the conical seat with the bottom of the nut but should the weld break and the top arm become free, the larger head of the nut would keep the top arm from totally separating from the hub.

This could obviously be achieved by less primative means however that's all we had at the time.

Cheers mate,

I understand too that this may be a common way to save money & actually work,but how does a 'professional' business justify selling a 'new' product for roughly $390(thats what I paid at ORI) when they prob bought 100 of them from a wrecker at $10 each & then just gussetted them? Not so SUPERIOR in ENGINEERING after all

beebee wrote:I found it somewhat amusing that welded arms are being openly sold. For the price of the chaos double arm, why would you run the risk?

The off road industries arms are not available at the present time and what i have heard is they don't plan on making any more.

ORI is gooooooone! so I doubt they'll make anymore anything.

hey guys i hope u realise that superior engineering products are for rigs for off road only , so why would you bag such an item??? before such people start judging (SP!). unless you work in the steel industry or fabrication in steel u really don't no squat on how things go together. im no expert and im a boily by trade but, all the stuff that comes out of superior is of hi standards. Why would they want to sell dodgy products that will ruin their own reputation in the this lucritive 4wd driving scene?DONT BAG WHAT U DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT:shock:


rant over, and by no means am i saying im an expert, just have a little insight