The hardest part of this conversion is mounting the PS box. If you choose to use a bolt on adapter plate other than cutting and welding your chassis then this is what you want. Below you will find a copy of the template I made when I started making my first kit. This plate is made from 10mm thick steel. Print it out, share it around and use it if you wish. All I ask is for a little credit in return.
Now to understand, this shows the side of the plate that sits against the chassis as labelled and also shows the top and front of the plate relative to the vahicle. The plate has 6 12mm holes through it, 3 to mount it to the original holes in the chassis and 3 to mount the Vitara PS box. The CS on 3 of the holes shows these 3 to be countersunk from this side shown. The other 3 holes will need to be contersink from the other side. Dont mix this up as I have in the past, very frustrating
The picture below shows all the parts you will need to aquire to fit everything together.
The 12mm countersunk bolts you need to fix the PS box are 2 x 90mm, 1 x 70mm and 3 x 40mm. Dont forget nuts and washers for each. I welded the 40mm bolts to the plate to stop them from turning once it is mounted to the chassis.
This picture shows the plate bolted to the chassis.
This is how the box attaches to the chassis with the plate.
The steering shaft is a cut down factory item. You will still need to source another other than your original as you need another uni joint to run one at each end. This is because the Vitara box will now sit at an angle to the chassis as shown below.
I made this shaft to accept the original rag joint by cutting down another shaft for each of its ends and welding them together. This is cut down to 355mm. Its fits up like this.
This can still be used with the rag joint up the front as standard but I needed to run it this way to give clearance to the alternator on the 4AGE engine. Another method that I might try next time is to use the original shaft, 2 uni joints and get the shaft end splined like the other. This way there is no welding involved and makes everything stronger. It also does away with the rag joint although I can see no down side to this.
The last piece of the puzzle is the pitman arm. As the Vitara arm is flat it may foul on the chassis. I use an arm sourced from a YR21 Toyota Tarago. This fits the Vitara box perfectly and has about the same drop as the standard Sierra item. The only problem is that the hole for the Sierra ball joint is too big. What I have done is have a tapered sleeve machined up that fits inside the hole in the pitman arm that reduces its size for the Sierra ball joint as below.
Even though it might look cylindrical in the picture it is actually tapered as it should be. One thing to note is that I have Toyota Bundera axles going under one of my Zooks and the ball joint for the steering is the correct size for the Tarago Pitman arm, no sleeve needed.
All this allows the mounting of the Vitara power steering box to the Sierra chassis and steering shaft. I will not go into mounting the power steering pump as different engines require different methods. I will say however that the standard Virara lines can be routed in front of the radiator, behind the front bar with minimal bending. They also bolt straight to the factory Toyota pump I have with my 4AGE engine conversion.
Use this information wisely, seek an engineers advise before modifying your vehicle in such a way that may deem in unroadworthy. It is up to you to follow the laws in your particular state.
can anyone stick it in the bible 
so we don't get search noob if anyone asks
