Just a want some thoughts on Turbos .
Main thing is this is not to make a a zillion kws
Im thinking , i drive trucks and just about all of them a fitted with turbos
to make the motors a bit more powerful .
i don,t mind 1.3s but there are some spots you wish you just had another 10 kw , so what size turbo would you use to a achieve a 20%
increase in power /tourqe keeping in mind we don't really want an increase in RPM limit and it needs to spool up early .
Bit of head work would be mandatory .( knock knock whos there, ping ping)
Input ?
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Turbo 1.3s
Im planning on a turbo conversion in the near future to my 1.3, will only be running around 5pound so really no internal work including the head will need to be done on a fresh engine.
Ive got a teeny turbo off a rotary engine that im going to be using, but if i were to buy new i would go for something like a Garrett GT15, nice n simple, has internal wastegate, just weld up a log manifold, aftermarket computer, etc...
Ive got a teeny turbo off a rotary engine that im going to be using, but if i were to buy new i would go for something like a Garrett GT15, nice n simple, has internal wastegate, just weld up a log manifold, aftermarket computer, etc...
My problem is almost sorted. I hope is come down to engine going into limp mode. (must have cut a wire in th e 121 harnnes I wasn't ment to 
) I know of a zook in rocky that has a bobcat turbo on it and is using a suzi carb on it as a blow through setup. it ment to go pretty hard. He had the carb built to suit though.
On my yellow zook the turbo system works great it hammers. 58.6hp at the wheels through 35 claws and luxs diffs with about 30 degree on the tail shaft. I wouldn't be surprised if it had 100hp at the flywheel. And that is a dead stock motor.
) I know of a zook in rocky that has a bobcat turbo on it and is using a suzi carb on it as a blow through setup. it ment to go pretty hard. He had the carb built to suit though.On my yellow zook the turbo system works great it hammers. 58.6hp at the wheels through 35 claws and luxs diffs with about 30 degree on the tail shaft. I wouldn't be surprised if it had 100hp at the flywheel. And that is a dead stock motor.
Its a wheelbase thing
im doing one at the moment but its a gti conversion with t25
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285 ... ahh011.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285 ... ahh013.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285 ... s009-1.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285 ... ahh011.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285 ... ahh013.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285 ... s009-1.jpg
I have always been interested in the reliability of the 1.3 under pressure. If you were on a budget, keep an eye out for something off an early RX7 or perhaps a small garrett from a CA18DET. However if you didn't mind spending a bit and buying a new turbo that you could also use on other projects (perhaps if you decide to swap in a different engine) you should look at a Garrett GT25R (~$1300 brand new) ball bearing, and will flow upto about 250hp.
Have you considered an engine conversion, I'd love to see a zook running a SR20DE, the motor can be had for ~$900 and auto's for around $350, 114kw of NA power! But then i guess you'd need to upgrade to a Hilux transfer case and hilux diffs with custom drive shafts.
Another thing I'd love to see is a LWB zookie powered by a 3RZ-FE (2.7 EFI hilux motor) running a decompression plate and a Garrett GT3071. The 3RZ's are good to handle 300hp+ stock, theres a hilux in brissy running 11's with nothing more than a decompression plate and a GT35R.
I think i need to win loto :(
Have you considered an engine conversion, I'd love to see a zook running a SR20DE, the motor can be had for ~$900 and auto's for around $350, 114kw of NA power! But then i guess you'd need to upgrade to a Hilux transfer case and hilux diffs with custom drive shafts.
Another thing I'd love to see is a LWB zookie powered by a 3RZ-FE (2.7 EFI hilux motor) running a decompression plate and a Garrett GT3071. The 3RZ's are good to handle 300hp+ stock, theres a hilux in brissy running 11's with nothing more than a decompression plate and a GT35R.
I think i need to win loto :(
A club member here in vic is running a SR20DE with an auto in a LWB. fully engineered and legal in Vic.
It is a very, very tight fit but works well, has plenty of power and has been reliable, but the very tight clearances and cooling issues made it a lot of work.
(i think) it is running a 1.0 transfer case, 4.6 diff gears and 32" 'pedes. The driveline strength has not been an issue I believe due to a sensible driver, tallish gearing and the "softness" of the auto.
I too have thought about the 3RZ-FE but could see know reason why there would be any need to turbo one in a sierra. these motors pretty much match stock 4AGZE specs in stock form and I think that traction would become a significant issue, even before boost was introduced.
One of the catches with going to hilux transfers is the loss of the indirect high range means deep diff gears have to be fitted which significantly adds to the cost and weakens the diffs.
I have not seen a sierra case fail due to power, they seem to break cases due to mount design or impact.
Steve.
It is a very, very tight fit but works well, has plenty of power and has been reliable, but the very tight clearances and cooling issues made it a lot of work.
(i think) it is running a 1.0 transfer case, 4.6 diff gears and 32" 'pedes. The driveline strength has not been an issue I believe due to a sensible driver, tallish gearing and the "softness" of the auto.
I too have thought about the 3RZ-FE but could see know reason why there would be any need to turbo one in a sierra. these motors pretty much match stock 4AGZE specs in stock form and I think that traction would become a significant issue, even before boost was introduced.
One of the catches with going to hilux transfers is the loss of the indirect high range means deep diff gears have to be fitted which significantly adds to the cost and weakens the diffs.
I have not seen a sierra case fail due to power, they seem to break cases due to mount design or impact.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
so how does the prefix for the turbos work , for instance i read
t25 t20 t15 , i assuming the the numbers relate to a dimension ?
I can,t see how putting a turbo from a 1.6 or 2.0 ltr motor would achieve what im after personaly, as the v/capacity of the 1.3 would take a lot longer to spool up a larger capacity unit , im wanting somthing that runs out of puff at the standard redline , so i imagine it could start working much lower in the rev range ?
Been there done that on conversions nothing wrong with conversions , On this one im wanting an allround slight performance increase on a 1.3 .
t25 t20 t15 , i assuming the the numbers relate to a dimension ?
I can,t see how putting a turbo from a 1.6 or 2.0 ltr motor would achieve what im after personaly, as the v/capacity of the 1.3 would take a lot longer to spool up a larger capacity unit , im wanting somthing that runs out of puff at the standard redline , so i imagine it could start working much lower in the rev range ?
Been there done that on conversions nothing wrong with conversions , On this one im wanting an allround slight performance increase on a 1.3 .
If you can booty fab everything youreself then you can get away with it reasonably cheap, but as i said you would want something like a GT15, as they are a tiny turbo made for engine capacitys smaller than a 1.6, its almost perfect for a 1.3 engine.
Really if you are not after large power figures, which from what you describe you arent (nor am i), then keep searching ebay for smaller turbos that came with vehicles stock.
I paid i think $200 for two turbos and a manifold off an import sequential turbo rotary that was never released in australia. You have to be careful tho as you can get screwed.
One of the turbos off this twin turbo setup i bought had a mashed turbine wheel, and the other had a severely cracked turbine housing, but they had the same size centre and wheels, so i swapped the good housing onto the good turbo centre, and voila a $200 turbo with no shaft play and is also water cooled.
Really if you are not after large power figures, which from what you describe you arent (nor am i), then keep searching ebay for smaller turbos that came with vehicles stock.
I paid i think $200 for two turbos and a manifold off an import sequential turbo rotary that was never released in australia. You have to be careful tho as you can get screwed.
One of the turbos off this twin turbo setup i bought had a mashed turbine wheel, and the other had a severely cracked turbine housing, but they had the same size centre and wheels, so i swapped the good housing onto the good turbo centre, and voila a $200 turbo with no shaft play and is also water cooled.
Every think on the cheap still adds up. I got both of my turbos for 100$ each. they are off trition 2.5td and a delica van also a 2.5 identical turbo just a different wastegate. then there is the new zorst I made mine myself but still 100 bucks in pipe mufflers and bends. a header plate was 50plus and a couple tees and elbos from blackwoods for the manifold was bout 70$ then you don't wand to run a turbo without a boost guage wheres the bling in that so there gos another 50. And oil line for the turbo I got braided stainless so that was 60$ a new Airfilter as You arnt gunna use that old set up. and you might as well get an intercooler while your at it and then you will need some silcone hase to join it all up. Im sure I forgoten some stuff but Like I was sayen nothings cheap.
Its a wheelbase thing
from my understanding Dozoor, you probably wont be running more than 5psi or so on your stock motor. Ofcorse you will achieve boost earlier with a smaller turbo people have suggested however I think it's uncommon to see these smaller turbos for sale (gt15 ect) regularly, unless your buying new.Dozoor wrote:so how does the prefix for the turbos work , for instance i read
t25 t20 t15 , i assuming the the numbers relate to a dimension ?
I can,t see how putting a turbo from a 1.6 or 2.0 ltr motor would achieve what im after personaly, as the v/capacity of the 1.3 would take a lot longer to spool up a larger capacity unit , im wanting somthing that runs out of puff at the standard redline , so i imagine it could start working much lower in the rev range ?
Been there done that on conversions nothing wrong with conversions , On this one im wanting an allround slight performance increase on a 1.3 .
It is my opinion that you will still get enjoyable midrange performance gains (while running something around 5psi) on your 1.3L with a turbo off an early RX7 /ca18det or even red top SR20DET. You should also be able to find any one of these turbos in reasonable condition for less than $400.
Good to hear about the SR20 Zook Gwagensteve. Your dead right the turboed 3rz would create far too much usable power for 4x4ing, i love playing in sand on the beach and stuff and you can never have too much power for dunes!
No Beach Work!
To many toys, not enough space to write about all of them.
To many toys, not enough space to write about all of them.
AVO offered a bolt on turbo kit for the swift GTI.
Most of the piping would be useless in a sierra due to the north/south orientation. not sure how engine management was handled in the AVO kit, but it was around the $7k mark fitted I seem to recall. Ran a T25 from memory.
Obviously, there are a few compromises with the GTI conversion anyway, the most obvious being the distributor.
All up, seems like an expensive path.
PS Dozoor, wouldn't a supercharger be more suitable for what you are trying to achieve? A small increase in HP but a significant driavability increase?
Steve.
Most of the piping would be useless in a sierra due to the north/south orientation. not sure how engine management was handled in the AVO kit, but it was around the $7k mark fitted I seem to recall. Ran a T25 from memory.
Obviously, there are a few compromises with the GTI conversion anyway, the most obvious being the distributor.
All up, seems like an expensive path.
PS Dozoor, wouldn't a supercharger be more suitable for what you are trying to achieve? A small increase in HP but a significant driavability increase?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Probly would steve ,gave a friend a hand with one of those toyota Blowers , should have under driven it further it came on striaght from idle was quiet savage
Never played with a turbo before so would be somthing different for me
Theres one of these on ebay http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... 068__1.htm
there very tiny , and recomended for up 1.2 , but they are rated to 130hp , im assuming that the 1.2 would need to be doing 7-8000 rpm maybe more to get close to 130hp , so would probly run out of puff at the 1.3 original redline ?
Never played with a turbo before so would be somthing different for me
Theres one of these on ebay http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... 068__1.htm
there very tiny , and recomended for up 1.2 , but they are rated to 130hp , im assuming that the 1.2 would need to be doing 7-8000 rpm maybe more to get close to 130hp , so would probly run out of puff at the 1.3 original redline ?
Hmmm that would be the business on my 660 I think
I would have thought the 1544 would be better (rated to 1.6 litre, 100-150hp?) for a relatively low revving 1.3?
I understand the hankering to have a play with turbos, I have had turbo diesels in the past, owned a cappuccino and daily drive an 07 STi WRX, but I haven't ever played with tuning etc.
That's why I am going with a 660 atm. the other thing with the 660 is that the DOHC 660's have a really high rev ceiling (9200rpm for the cap motor) which allows lots of scope to cover deep gears off road and still run on the highway.
Steve.
I would have thought the 1544 would be better (rated to 1.6 litre, 100-150hp?) for a relatively low revving 1.3?
I understand the hankering to have a play with turbos, I have had turbo diesels in the past, owned a cappuccino and daily drive an 07 STi WRX, but I haven't ever played with tuning etc.
That's why I am going with a 660 atm. the other thing with the 660 is that the DOHC 660's have a really high rev ceiling (9200rpm for the cap motor) which allows lots of scope to cover deep gears off road and still run on the highway.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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