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Guard cutting on 4 door rangie?

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Guard cutting on 4 door rangie?

Post by MONGREL »

I know this would be a FAQ. But i need pics and the thread i found, http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... rd+cutting
The pics are not coming up, i cut the guards on my 2 doors 2 years ago but now i have 4 door and needs the pics for the back doors.
Anyone know where to find some?
Last edited by MONGREL on Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Cooter no point for me to send PM back, i have some in my out box that have been there a week.

But if the disco and rangie doors are same method then pics would be great.
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Anyone?
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Ok then.

I have started to mark out the cut lines on my guards, will do step by pics and details of method if anyone is interested.
As i couldnt find anything with step by step and pics.
I Havent done it on a 4 door bofore, will just work it out as i go. I am taking out about 65mm.
I plan to use 65mm Flexi Flare.

Am i just kooking in the wrong place and there is already a thread somewhere, and wasting my time by posting this up?
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Location: carrum downs

Post by UrbanRedneck »

Hey there mate its not realy all that hard i done 3 so far sorry i havent got any pics but just dont go to far and watch that you dont cut the bracing in the door to far as you will cut of the spot welds and it will rattle its ass off.
try going to this
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/318.html
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/319.html
This will hopefully give you some ideas as this is what i used as a guide just take your time. Use plenty of tech screws in the rubber flares and use the side mount flares
GOOD LUCK ;)
have grinder will fit
www.4Bfabrications.com.au
Posts: 289
Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 8:27 pm
Location: carrum downs

Post by UrbanRedneck »

Should have said dont cut the door on the bottom past the inner edge as with the flare fitting.
All i used to seal the edge of the door again was a healthy lick of sikaflex it was good as gold. I would take photos and send but have since fitted glass flares.(Wish i hadnt :cry: :roll: )
have grinder will fit
www.4Bfabrications.com.au
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Thanks for that, where can i find sikaflex?
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Location: Perth WA

Post by Lucus »

not happy with the flares damo??
Posts: 289
Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 8:27 pm
Location: carrum downs

Post by UrbanRedneck »

Ye they look heaps better but now i am always worried about snagging them in big holes but ya get that. But just have to learn that the tyre wheel offset combo actualy holds it away.

Ya can find sikaflex in any good auto store or ya can use silicone (sikaflex heaps better) make sure you use some disposable ruuber gloves makes bit of a mess.
have grinder will fit
www.4Bfabrications.com.au
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Thanks for your advice, home hardware had the sikaflex.
Posts: 197
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Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Thought i might just update where im up to. Only done the fronts so far due to lack of time.
All i did on front was mark a line with a back guage the same radius as the original arch. Trimmed 65mm. Seems to line up well with the inner guard aswell.
Image
And this how i have marked out rear so far. Made a cardboard template of the section of inner guard where the door jam is and marked it on the outside.
Image
Posts: 197
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Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Should the sikaflex set hard so you can sand it?? It says you can sand and paint it on the the tube, but still feels like silicon after 24hours.
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Location: Toowoomba Queensland

Post by Braudy »

Hi there.

If the sikaflex you put in is quite thick 10 mm or more it will take a while to harden. thicker it is the longer it will take to cure . Give it a week. then it should be right.
V8 beats gravity

If you cant buy it , Make it !

Bob tail Rangey
Posts: 197
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Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Thanks Braudy, not 10mm thick but probably around 5mm.
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:40 pm
Location: Moss Vale NSW

Post by MONGREL »

Well back doors are done bit dodgy but come up ok. Think i have done it a bit differently to most people.
On the back doors i cut the outer skin about 16mm longer than the inner, cut a series of tabs and folded the whole outer skin back around the inner.
Then used skaflex to smooth it all over, i found a lite skim with a flap disc was the go to clean up the sikaflex.
A bit of pinch weld to cover sharp edge on wheel arch.
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