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Bent drag link

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Bent drag link

Post by want33s »

I bent my drag link at Glasshouse so I replaced it with a spare. I went out again on the weekend and now guess what? .......BENT again.
Is this something common that I've missed. I don't see anyone else with this problem.
I have searched but found nothing about a stronger/reinforced drag link to suit SUA.
I thought about boxing it with two pieces of angle iron but there isn't enough clearance on the track rod.
Why am I bending this link? Would a drop pitman arm help?
*** 31" tyres. No PS. RTC damper fitted. 2" spring. QLD***
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Post by waxhead.. »

I've bent a tie rod.. replaced with another stock one re-inforced with some angle... re-inforced my drag-link at the same time, most modded sierra's in my club have done similar.
Last edited by waxhead.. on Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by suzuki boy »

Where abouts is your drag link? :oops:

Would this cause the whole axel to shift across the car?

Ever sence the first wheel on the 31's it's been crabbing more than ussual! ;)
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Post by lay80n »

suzuki boy wrote:Where abouts is your drag link? :oops:

Would this cause the whole axel to shift across the car?

Ever sence the first wheel on the 31's it's been crabbing more than ussual! ;)
Have you replaced your bent spring yet? In your case suzuki boy i would be looking at this first. Otherwise get a wheel alignment. I have never damaged a dragling, though i have bent a tie-rod before.

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Post by suzuki boy »

Nah not yet but i need to now as i'm goin to 32" mongrels! :twisted:

I can get iron man for cost price so i'll give them a go! :cool: Just thought it might be worth a look at! ;)
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Post by MART »

Want 33s , are you bending this link to make it fit under the spring , also I guess you have power steering , it's a very small link , have you travelled it on a ramp to see if the ball joint is binding under articulation , you might need to laminate it to make it stronger , if you have clearance problems on top , split a close fitting heavy wall tube down it's length and weld it under the bottom so it doesn't hit the spring when turning left , Cheers Paul.
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drag link

Post by want33s »

MART wrote:Want 33s , are you bending this link to make it fit under the spring , also I guess you have power steering , it's a very small link , have you travelled it on a ramp to see if the ball joint is binding under articulation , you might need to laminate it to make it stronger , if you have clearance problems on top , split a close fitting heavy wall tube down it's length and weld it under the bottom so it doesn't hit the spring when turning left , Cheers Paul.
"are you bending this link to make it fit under the spring " I'm not sure what you mean.
NO pwer steering.
At full flex there are no clearance issues.
Got any pics of a strengthened one?
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Post by MART »

Some spring lifts the drag link when fully turned left hits the passenger side spring so people put a small kink in the drag link to make it miss , this creates a week spot when loaded and makes the steering arm bow , I don't have any photos but I will draw a pic for you , Cheer Paul.
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Post by MART »

Try this to laminate your bar , there are other options but this one doesn't weld the link/steering arm , Cheers Paul.


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Post by want33s »

MART wrote:Some spring lifts the drag link when fully turned left hits the passenger side spring so people put a small kink in the drag link to make it miss , this creates a week spot when loaded and makes the steering arm bow , I don't have any photos but I will draw a pic for you , Cheer Paul.
I'll get some more pics today of it flexing but when I did it the other day the only possible reason I could see for bending the drag link is maybe its hitting the bottom of the left chassis rail at left lock and full compression on left front wheel.. there is still quite a gap though.
I have 2" spring lift but the bump stops have shiny marks on them so they quite often touch.
Pics soon. THANKS for the diagram. Very easy to understand. :)
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Post by Red_Zook »

MART wrote:Try this to laminate your bar , there are other options but this one doesn't weld the link/steering arm , Cheers Paul.


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bent drag link

Post by want33s »

As you can see in the pics there is plenty of clearance everywhere it is needed. Maybe its just not strong enough to cope with 31's. :?
MART: If I reinforce the drag link as you suggest, will there still be enough clearance to move diff forward 20-30mm??
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bent drag link

Post by want33s »

I finally strengthened the drag link. I used 20NB Heavy Black pipe 26.9x3.2mm. I sliced it in half lengthwise with a 1mm cutting wheel and welded it over the original, it fits beautifully. Now it is 6.4mm thicker than standard and shouldn't bend again.

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Re: bent drag link

Post by sierrajim »

want33s wrote: ....and shouldn't bend again.
Unless it fails at either end.
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Re: bent drag link

Post by want33s »

sierrajim wrote:
want33s wrote: ....and shouldn't bend again.
Unless it fails at either end.
Thats why I said "shouldn't bend" and not "won't bend", but thanks anyway.
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Post by sierrajim »

Are you going to do your tie rod?

Same theory will still apply, however it's more prone to getting hit.
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Bent drag link.

Post by want33s »

sierrajim wrote:Are you going to do your tie rod?

Same theory will still apply, however it's more prone to getting hit.
I have only strengthened the drag link (from steering box to track rod) because I've bent it repeatedly turning deflated tyres on extreme angles, not by hitting things. The track rod was bent when I bought the car but I replaced it and haven't had a drama since. I don't drive thru deep mud or grass where I'm likely to hit a stump, unless I have to. IF other components start bending/breaking then I'll look at strengthening them.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Want 33's, I've only seen draglinks bend if something else in the system is out of whack.

The RTC steering damper might not be helping too. If it's excessively stiff, it will be "locking up" the pitman arm when the wheel takes a hit and the force will have to go somewhere.

Steering dampers general have light low speed valving and stuff high speed valving, to take the kickback and vibration out of the wheel. If the RTC damper is valved too stiff (i.e someone hasn't thought about how light suzuki's are) this could be part of the problem.

Looking a your photos, it looks like you might have a bent leaf - the PS spring seems to kink up towards the hanger, and the shock looks to be leaning in at the bottom more than stock.

I'm just trying to suggest some possible causes- to do more than one is unusual for sure.

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Post by BlueSuzy »

hay mines bent, i have bent springs be4 and fixed but i just noticed it, i only have 27" stockers!
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