Ok, i have decided i better start thinking seriously about my options.... What do u guys think???
2.8 diesel possibly turbo'd eventually??
Commodore V6??
Some one said a 1KZ-T(E), what is it???
Please consider price of engines, but i will be doin the work myself.
I basically want something with a bit more gut to hold speeds on gentle slopes (unlike my 22R). Fuel efficiency would be nice too.
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BUNDERA ENGINE TRANSPLANT HELP.
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BUNDERA ENGINE TRANSPLANT HELP.
BABY red (GU ute)
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BUNDY BOY stick with something reliable and resonably cheap... go the 2.8 diesel...... strong little work horse and wont let you down... bunderas run hilux runnin gear dont they? have you thort of gettin another transfer case fitted to get even better crawlin ability? ONCE YOU GO DIESEL YOU WONT LOOK BACK 
:armsup: The Offical Founder of ARMS UP
Jimmy James Beam the III from babinda and mt isa and other places u don't wanna know about :armsup:
www.blackriver4wd.com
Jimmy James Beam the III from babinda and mt isa and other places u don't wanna know about :armsup:
www.blackriver4wd.com
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Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
2.4l '2L' diesel motor, or the import 2-LT with turbo. Unless you plan to keep the rig for many many years, there is no point spending heaps of money on the motor conversion and neglecting other offroad neccessities like locks, tyres lift etc, and setting it up for the next owner with a motor (or any mod) that you can't take with you...
Built, not bought.
droopypete wrote:robbie wrote:rangie v8.. get the adaptor plate for a G52 (nam had one for sale.. sold it cheap) and put one in!
HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA,
Oh robbie that was a good one, you had me going there for a second, HA HA HA.
Peter, HA HA.
good to see you're posting some bright ideas instead of just posting out your ass
Re: BUNDERA ENGINE TRANSPLANT HELP.
bundyboy wrote:Ok, i have decided i better start thinking seriously about my options.... What do u guys think???
2.8 diesel possibly turbo'd eventually??
Commodore V6??
Some one said a 1KZ-T(E), what is it???
Please consider price of engines, but i will be doin the work myself.
I basically want something with a bit more gut to hold speeds on gentle slopes (unlike my 22R). Fuel efficiency would be nice too.
Is your car petrol or deisel at the moment?
if money is an issue, follow Area54's advise, if not go crazy, ether way do plenty of reserch and ask lots of questions and don't spend a cent untill you know exactly what you want to have at the end of the project.
Learn from the mistakes of others, (advice, I wish I had been given when I was younger
)
Peter.
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robbie wrote:droopypete wrote:robbie wrote:rangie v8.. get the adaptor plate for a G52 (nam had one for sale.. sold it cheap) and put one in!
HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA,
Oh robbie that was a good one, you had me going there for a second, HA HA HA.
Peter, HA HA.
good to see you're posting some bright ideas instead of just posting out your ass
robbie = 1...... droopy = 0 :armsup: The Offical Founder of ARMS UP
Jimmy James Beam the III from babinda and mt isa and other places u don't wanna know about :armsup:
www.blackriver4wd.com
Jimmy James Beam the III from babinda and mt isa and other places u don't wanna know about :armsup:
www.blackriver4wd.com
bundyboy wrote:or the import 2-LT with turbo.
i thought they were pretty gutless??? my choice at this stage would be a 2.8 diesel, but icould do a v6 comi alot cheaper....
the early 2L-T is pretty ordinary, the newer (1990- ) 2L-TII or 2L-TE motors make more power and almost as much torque as the 3B. my turbo bundy (early 2L-T running 10psi, no intercooler, 35's), is very slightly quicker than a BJ70 on 33's.
the commodore swap looks cheap on the surface and it can be if you have plenty of time and booty fab skillz, but if you have to pay blokes to sort out the wiring loom, build engine mounts, surge tank, filter brackets, speed sensors, tacho interface, etc etc the costs stack up quickly. It is a lot easier to go diesel - minimal wiring, and the L series diesels and the 1KZ will bolt up to your G52 transmission. the 3L (2.8 litre) with aftermarket turbo is a good option but you'll spend 5k at least on motor and turbo - the upside is you won't need to spend much else.
the 1KZ-TE is the motor in the 3.0 turbo prados, a bit expensive to put ina bundy.
I've been quoted between $9k and 12k to do a chev V8 6.2 conversion in a bundy.
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Currently its a 22R, which is petrol
It would also pay to check with DOT to see what motor is allowed as a conversion. Keep in mind the big picture too, a new motor is only part of the driving picture. Also have a look at getting your motor rebuilt if it's a bit tired. Bit of headwork, extractors and exhaust, even EFI might be just what you need. Unless you plan to drive it really hard (the bundy looked in top notch condition at the outerlimits weekend - be a real shame to turn it into a rock eating monster) I'd go conservative with the engine decision.
Good advice is free, a bad decision is expensive.
It would also pay to check with DOT to see what motor is allowed as a conversion. Keep in mind the big picture too, a new motor is only part of the driving picture. Also have a look at getting your motor rebuilt if it's a bit tired. Bit of headwork, extractors and exhaust, even EFI might be just what you need. Unless you plan to drive it really hard (the bundy looked in top notch condition at the outerlimits weekend - be a real shame to turn it into a rock eating monster) I'd go conservative with the engine decision.
Good advice is free, a bad decision is expensive.
Built, not bought.
bundyboy wrote:its petrol at the moment 2.4 L petrol.... it has 320 000kms on it and i have driven from brisbane to sydney twicein the last month, just feels like it is time to let it go.
also, it is probably the righttime now coz i have a bit of money up my sleave.
Dont forget to allow cash for petrol to diesel fuel line and tank conversion,
and electrics $$$$
Peter.
bundyboy wrote:i am thinkin of just buying a hilux diff for the back and run it round in 2wd for a week or so to see whether it is better!!!
do a high steer conversion on the front and you can put low pinion diffs front and rear.
Last edited by dumbdunce on Wed Dec 31, 2003 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
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droopypete wrote:bundyboy wrote:its petrol at the moment 2.4 L petrol.... it has 320 000kms on it and i have driven from brisbane to sydney twicein the last month, just feels like it is time to let it go.
also, it is probably the righttime now coz i have a bit of money up my sleave.
Dont forget to allow cash for petrol to diesel fuel line and tank conversion,
and electrics $$$$
Peter.
Yep the million little things always rack up the $$$$
Built, not bought.
Posts: 2808
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 4:51 pm
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Unless you plan to drive it really hard (the bundy looked in top notch condition at the outerlimits weekend - be a real shame to turn it into a rock eating monster) I'd go conservative with the engine decision
yeh, i am stay fairly conservative, as i have decided i may get a designated comp car a bit later...
considered trading it up to a better vehicle all round?
BJ73 turbo for example?
after goin through selling two cars in the last few months, not really interested, plus i love everything about the bundy except its lackof power.... and after all, thats why they call us customizers!!!
BABY red (GU ute)
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you need a high pinion for the front unless you convert the front to high steer - if you can get your hands on a pair of high steer arms and a pair of hilux 4.88's for cheapish it would probably work out cheaper to go this way - plus there's no mucky pulling diffs apart.
new gears are around $350/set, even for the reverse rotation fronts, but unless you're familiar with setting up diff gears, pay a shop to do it, and expect to pay around $800* per end, plus the cost of R&R the diffs, prob another $100 per end.
* this should include the gears, new bearings and seals, solid pinion bearing spacer, new pinion nut, all labour on the centre itself.
new gears are around $350/set, even for the reverse rotation fronts, but unless you're familiar with setting up diff gears, pay a shop to do it, and expect to pay around $800* per end, plus the cost of R&R the diffs, prob another $100 per end.
* this should include the gears, new bearings and seals, solid pinion bearing spacer, new pinion nut, all labour on the centre itself.
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