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taking a 5speed out of a shorty the easy way
taking a 5speed out of a shorty the easy way
anyone know how????????????????????????????????? ive got 90% unbolted but how the $#$!@$#^$*#%$@* do ya get to the top 2 bellhousing bolts to undo em? and do i need to take the x member off? im only changing a clutch so the box doesnt have to be right out just has to be enuff to be able to reach inside
Cheers
Ryan
(GQ gearboxes................... )
Cheers
Ryan
(GQ gearboxes................... )
update......... its almost 2am, box is out clutch is changed, thrust bearing came off in 5 pieces, new one pressed on with a hammer a vice and a socket (remember this is done on ultra low time/tools) 4 people used to get box out, dropped it on the driveway but all is sorta ok, now we gettin kebabs from a 24 hr shop in penrith for smoko, put box back in soooooooooooon,, that is the fun part :(
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
Ryan wrote:dont laugh dude i just woke up on the creeper with the beer next to me lmao
n nah we dropped it cause the dude up the front of the box thought we had it balanced and let go............................ we didnt have it balanced lol, im goin to bed. finish it tomorrow
heavy phucka aint it.. helped a mate do his, 2in sus lift, no body, and no room under car at all.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
doing it the EASY WAY!!!
Tried the way you "did it" and I used 2 blokes underneath and 2 inside the rig.....found that an engine crane through the passengers side door is SOOOOOO much easier... I can do a g/box removal/replacement by me self now ....
and yep they are fuggin HEAVY !
Tried the way you "did it" and I used 2 blokes underneath and 2 inside the rig.....found that an engine crane through the passengers side door is SOOOOOO much easier... I can do a g/box removal/replacement by me self now ....
and yep they are fuggin HEAVY !
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
robbie wrote:dropped box on floor? literally? didnt expect it to be that heavy eh?
I holesawed a pair of 32mm holes in the firewall on the Rangie to get the socket through to bellhousing bolts. And I dropped the gearbox too, but I put a pair of cardboard boxes under it first, reinstalling it wasn't as bad as I took the floor out and roof off and used an engine hoist.
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
bogged wrote:Rainbow Warrior wrote:And I dropped the gearbox too, but I put a pair of cardboard boxes under it first,
That would have done heaps to a 100kg+ box!
Actually it was a heap easier with only one person on each side to make a controlled fall, it finished about 2 inches off the deck, we had to squash the boxes more to get it out, we only had it held up by a pair of bottle jacks while we took the bolts out and had to get it down somehow.
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
got box in, the only difference we saw in the clutch was the thrust bearing (new one) being slightly thinner, but apparently they ere a new design clutch so thats prolly the new design, now for the problem...
gearstick is farkin sloppy as, we had that unbolted when the box came out (controlled drop lol) any ideas?
clutch pedal feels fine but i cant get gears, started it in 1st gear and it feels like the pedal is on the friction point of the clutch, where it just starts to grab
rpm on idle is bout 3000rpm we did break some wires that run up the drivers side of the box at the top, one is the reverse lights but i dunno what the other one is could it cause the idle to be high? we took the accelerator cable off and it still does it the linkage is sitting where it normally does too
gotta be a way to fix without taking the box out again
gearstick is farkin sloppy as, we had that unbolted when the box came out (controlled drop lol) any ideas?
clutch pedal feels fine but i cant get gears, started it in 1st gear and it feels like the pedal is on the friction point of the clutch, where it just starts to grab
rpm on idle is bout 3000rpm we did break some wires that run up the drivers side of the box at the top, one is the reverse lights but i dunno what the other one is could it cause the idle to be high? we took the accelerator cable off and it still does it the linkage is sitting where it normally does too
gotta be a way to fix without taking the box out again
k engine sorted just took some carbie cleaner, the throttle was stuck open... box is sorta getting better but the clutch still wont let me get any gears,,., any ideas? the thrust bearing was slightly thinner, the new one, but thats apparently an upgrade they dont make the old type nomore, and i bought a complete kit... so how do i get it to work???
Ryan wrote:k engine sorted just took some carbie cleaner, the throttle was stuck open... box is sorta getting better but the clutch still wont let me get any gears,,., any ideas? the thrust bearing was slightly thinner, the new one, but thats apparently an upgrade they dont make the old type nomore, and i bought a complete kit... so how do i get it to work???
Can you get gears with the motor off? If you can then it means your clutch is not releasing enough for changes, check the slave cylinder is moving when pedal pressed.
Caution, starting the car in gear will probably cause it to drive until you kil the engine, maybe put the transfer box in neutral or in low range and pull the main coil lead off so it only moves a few feet on the starter
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
started it in gear with clutch in, slowly VERY slowly moves the car, if i let the clutch out bout 2" it is fully out n driving, the rest of the pedal movement does nothing, and with the motor off i can get gears fine, its just sloppy on the stick, could i have had a linkage fall out when i dropped the gearbox? it didnt hit the ground hard just we had the gearstick unbolted,
tried putting a spacer between the slave cylinder (we blead it) and the fork, still no difference
???
tried putting a spacer between the slave cylinder (we blead it) and the fork, still no difference
???
bleeding
when you bleed the clutch did you use some clear hose into a clear container so you could see if you got all the air bubbles out or run a clear hose from the bleeder nipple into the resivour and just keep pumping until you see no bubbles.
by the way did you machine the flywheel ??? did you use a genuine nissan clutch or an after market one ??? The flywheel from the factory has a step in it if you use a genuine nissan clutch (thinner clutch plate) its fine, But if you use a aftermarket clutch kit the clutch plate is thicker so the flywheel needs to be machined flat. if you can bleed it enough to be able to drive it, it will over come the difference in the step and be fine.
by the way did you machine the flywheel ??? did you use a genuine nissan clutch or an after market one ??? The flywheel from the factory has a step in it if you use a genuine nissan clutch (thinner clutch plate) its fine, But if you use a aftermarket clutch kit the clutch plate is thicker so the flywheel needs to be machined flat. if you can bleed it enough to be able to drive it, it will over come the difference in the step and be fine.
see ya mav
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
With a new clutch you will need to reset the pedal to master cylinder distance (pedal height adjustment). Where the pedal link attaches to the master cylinder pushrod, you will see a nut on the link, and the end of the pushrod is threaded for adjustment.
Also, have you bled the top line (if you have one - commonly missed) there will be a brass block in the engine bay, passenger side near the firewall/inner fender that will need to be bled as well when you bleed the system.
Also, have you bled the top line (if you have one - commonly missed) there will be a brass block in the engine bay, passenger side near the firewall/inner fender that will need to be bled as well when you bleed the system.
Built, not bought.
congrats mate,
for a minute there i thought the clutch might have been no good.
Good thing there are some realy brains on this forum
Screwy
for a minute there i thought the clutch might have been no good.
Good thing there are some realy brains on this forum
Screwy
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