Outer Limits 4x4 Board

anyone know how????????????????????????????????? ive got 90% unbolted but how the $#$!@$#^$*#%$@* do ya get to the top 2 bellhousing bolts to undo em? and do i need to take the x member off? im only changing a clutch so the box doesnt have to be right out just has to be enuff to be able to reach inside

Cheers

Ryan


(GQ gearboxes................... )

Bastard of a job i attempted it once with no luck i ended up bolting most of it together and took it to a mechanical shop and let them have the headache.It can be done but goodluck trying without a hoist and a transmission jack.Mav

Body lift really helps here about 20 to 30mm
You need to drop back of enginedown a bit.

Bazzle

update......... its almost 2am, box is out clutch is changed, thrust bearing came off in 5 pieces, new one pressed on with a hammer a vice and a socket (remember this is done on ultra low time/tools) 4 people used to get box out, dropped it on the driveway but all is sorta ok, now we gettin kebabs from a 24 hr shop in penrith for smoko, put box back in soooooooooooon,, that is the fun part :(

dropped box on floor? literally? didnt expect it to be that heavy eh?

Thats the spirit, pullin' an all nighter. My advice, sleep on the creeper, saves having to have a shower before bed, and then you can get an even earlier start in the morning - wake up, finish off the beer you left only hours before, pick up the tools where you left off...

dont laugh dude i just woke up on the creeper with the beer next to me lmao

n nah we dropped it cause the dude up the front of the box thought we had it balanced and let go............................ we didnt have it balanced lol, im goin to bed. finish it tomorrow



Cheers

Ryan

Ryan wrote:dont laugh dude i just woke up on the creeper with the beer next to me lmao

n nah we dropped it cause the dude up the front of the box thought we had it balanced and let go............................ we didnt have it balanced lol, im goin to bed. finish it tomorrow

heavy phucka aint it.. helped a mate do his, 2in sus lift, no body, and no room under car at all.

doing it the EASY WAY!!!

Tried the way you "did it" and I used 2 blokes underneath and 2 inside the rig.....found that an engine crane through the passengers side door is SOOOOOO much easier... I can do a g/box removal/replacement by me self now ....


and yep they are fuggin HEAVY !

yea thats what i mean by limited tools - small trolley jack lmao



............. never doing a GQ clutch again

robbie wrote:dropped box on floor? literally? didnt expect it to be that heavy eh?

I holesawed a pair of 32mm holes in the firewall on the Rangie to get the socket through to bellhousing bolts. And I dropped the gearbox too, but I put a pair of cardboard boxes under it first, reinstalling it wasn't as bad as I took the floor out and roof off and used an engine hoist.

Rainbow Warrior wrote:And I dropped the gearbox too, but I put a pair of cardboard boxes under it first,

That would have done heaps to a 100kg+ box!

bogged wrote:

Rainbow Warrior wrote:And I dropped the gearbox too, but I put a pair of cardboard boxes under it first,

That would have done heaps to a 100kg+ box!

Actually it was a heap easier with only one person on each side to make a controlled fall, it finished about 2 inches off the deck, we had to squash the boxes more to get it out, we only had it held up by a pair of bottle jacks while we took the bolts out and had to get it down somehow.

got box in, the only difference we saw in the clutch was the thrust bearing (new one) being slightly thinner, but apparently they ere a new design clutch so thats prolly the new design, now for the problem...

gearstick is farkin sloppy as, we had that unbolted when the box came out (controlled drop lol) any ideas?

clutch pedal feels fine but i cant get gears, started it in 1st gear and it feels like the pedal is on the friction point of the clutch, where it just starts to grab

rpm on idle is bout 3000rpm we did break some wires that run up the drivers side of the box at the top, one is the reverse lights but i dunno what the other one is could it cause the idle to be high? we took the accelerator cable off and it still does it the linkage is sitting where it normally does too




gotta be a way to fix without taking the box out again

anyone got any ideas???

I wish I could help ya, but I don't know shiat about GQ boxes.
Good luck dude. I hope you can get it wheeling by next
weekend. I'll call my mate tonight, he's got a fully modded MQ,
he may have a few tips.

Bart

another way is using a trolley jack with blocks of wood under it and wrapping the box on top of the jack mouth with rope to hold it in spot..and a mate on each side of the box to hold it in position while you jack it up.. and then slide it back in.

Just a few ideas

Tom

k engine sorted just took some carbie cleaner, the throttle was stuck open... box is sorta getting better but the clutch still wont let me get any gears,,., any ideas? the thrust bearing was slightly thinner, the new one, but thats apparently an upgrade they dont make the old type nomore, and i bought a complete kit... so how do i get it to work???

Hmmm. not sure re the thinner thrust?/

Have you bled the clutch hyd??

Bazzle

Ryan wrote:k engine sorted just took some carbie cleaner, the throttle was stuck open... box is sorta getting better but the clutch still wont let me get any gears,,., any ideas? the thrust bearing was slightly thinner, the new one, but thats apparently an upgrade they dont make the old type nomore, and i bought a complete kit... so how do i get it to work???

Can you get gears with the motor off? If you can then it means your clutch is not releasing enough for changes, check the slave cylinder is moving when pedal pressed.
Caution, starting the car in gear will probably cause it to drive until you kil the engine, maybe put the transfer box in neutral or in low range and pull the main coil lead off so it only moves a few feet on the starter

started it in gear with clutch in, slowly VERY slowly moves the car, if i let the clutch out bout 2" it is fully out n driving, the rest of the pedal movement does nothing, and with the motor off i can get gears fine, its just sloppy on the stick, could i have had a linkage fall out when i dropped the gearbox? it didnt hit the ground hard just we had the gearstick unbolted,

tried putting a spacer between the slave cylinder (we blead it) and the fork, still no difference



???

Is there an adjustable type thingy to set the clutch?

Will have a look at my manual when i get home.

Hang in there Ryan,
Sounds like you are making slow progress.
You'll get it soon dude!

Bart

when you bleed the clutch did you use some clear hose into a clear container so you could see if you got all the air bubbles out or run a clear hose from the bleeder nipple into the resivour and just keep pumping until you see no bubbles.

by the way did you machine the flywheel ??? did you use a genuine nissan clutch or an after market one ??? The flywheel from the factory has a step in it if you use a genuine nissan clutch (thinner clutch plate) its fine, But if you use a aftermarket clutch kit the clutch plate is thicker so the flywheel needs to be machined flat. if you can bleed it enough to be able to drive it, it will over come the difference in the step and be fine.

With a new clutch you will need to reset the pedal to master cylinder distance (pedal height adjustment). Where the pedal link attaches to the master cylinder pushrod, you will see a nut on the link, and the end of the pushrod is threaded for adjustment.

Also, have you bled the top line (if you have one - commonly missed) there will be a brass block in the engine bay, passenger side near the firewall/inner fender that will need to be bled as well when you bleed the system.

that actually sounds like you got it in one area54........................ do i make the linkage longer or shorter?? im guessing longer

if your right, im sending you a case of beer lmao

haha!!! WOOHOO MY CAR NOW WORKS
ajusted the arm out for the clutch master like area54 said, all sweet the only thing i have to sort out now is the sloppyness in the shifter but atleast its drivable now

Just ensure there is a small bit of play at the pedal or the thrust will be in contact all the time.

With the sloppyness check nylon bush and its side pins where lever sits.

Bazzle

congrats mate,
for a minute there i thought the clutch might have been no good.
Good thing there are some realy brains on this forum

Screwy

this sounds like a fun afternoons work, and now i might not be looking foward to doing it in my truck, ahh well its gotta be done i guess