hunjy series diffs into a rangie

Post by **tuffsahara** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:19 pm

as title states 100 series diffs into a 70's model rangie not sure exactly what year as im posting for a mate of mine broke the spider gears on the standard diff running 37's obviously wasnt gonna take to long so we just welded it knowing itd snap an axle pretty soon anyway axle snapped he scored a set of 100 series diffs for absolutely nothing is it possible to fit em in ie doin all the mods and that and is there much track width difference between rangie diffs and hunjy diffs?

appreciate your help !

Post by **bogged** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:21 pm

arent the 100 series diffs plastascene weak?

Post by **tuffsahara** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:33 pm

we scored em for free gotta be stronger that the rangie diffs tho

Post by **bogged** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:35 pm

tuffsahara wrote:we scored em for free gotta be stronger that the rangie diffs tho

yea dont have a problem with the price, thats pretty

Im pretty sure the IFS ones are the fucked ones, I mean weak... you wouldnt bother... but yea you may be better askin in the Rover section or lookin for GU diffs, not cheap, but unbreakable.

Post by **j-top paj** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:43 pm

if they are free then slap em in

but if i had to pay for some id be looking for GU instead.. or MOG

Post by **tuffsahara** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:45 pm

thakns for your help bogged and j top

i can see your point itd be a conversion you'd wanna do once so itd be worth getting good gear in the first go mind you yota partys are easily available and cheap form the wreckers

this rangies a real cowbow setup done on a budget just for fun it doesnt look pretty but does what it was built for thats why were not too worried

Post by **Goatse.AJ** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:46 pm

Still costs to fit and engineer them....

Website · Post by **cooter** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:46 pm

they will be heaps stronger than rover but then so would zook diffs

i converted my disco to gq diffs ages ago i would of prefered to use a cruiser rear for the offset and to have full floaters
but yes it is doooooable have you got a mig and an oxy?????

Post by **bogged** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:47 pm

tuffsahara wrote:thakns for your help bogged and j top

i can see your point itd be a conversion you'd wanna do once so itd be worth getting good gear in the first go mind you yota partys are easily available and cheap form the wreckers

this rangies a real cowbow setup done on a budget just for fun it doesnt look pretty but does what it was built for thats why were not too worried

What 100 series are they out of?
lot of work to fit up to have them shit themselves within a week if they are the shit ones.

Post by **j-top paj** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:48 pm

AJFeroza wrote:Still costs to fit and engineer them....

didnt think of the engineering

if your not doing the work yourself then maybe better option to sell the diffs and look for some GU ones

Post by **tuffsahara** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:00 am

its just a hack unliscenced trailer job my mate is an a grade welder has a mig at home built his own cage for it done everything himself

Post by **Goatse.AJ** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:03 am

Go for it then.

Post by **j-top paj** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:07 am

what he said

Post by **tuffsahara** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:20 am

sweet thanks for your help

Post by **v840** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 5:00 am

Have a search for Maggot4x4 in the rangie section too. He's running 80series rear and Gq front diffs under his rangie and its ShortyIQ horn! Nice bloke too and Im sure would help out with advice if you PM him.

Post by **jessie928** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 6:05 am

sell them and buy GU diffs.
If you are worried about the pinion ofset then put a H260 in the rear from a MQ.

JEs

Post by **UrbanRedneck** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:46 pm

Just done a 80 series rear and GQ front in my rangie and it was piss easy and cheap to boot cost me 850 for the diffs front with locker and although it isnt finished off yet all sorted just not finished it has only been 3 weeks of tinkering in the shed in my spare time (which doesnt come often with 2 kids)
front virtualy just bolts in and the rear i used the bottom radius arm mounts and the shock mounts and just fabbed up the A frame conector.
I also am led to beleive that GU are little bit wider again which might be bit much as the GQ and 80 setup have the same track as one other and it is 100mm wider than rangey.

I say stick with the freebys and makem fit if it is just a trailer queen cant go wrong

Good luck
Damo

Post by **badger** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:31 pm

100 series diffs arent that weak. the front obviously isnt as strong as gq nor 60 series but with an arb in the they will only break if abused

Post by **Pauwolf** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:02 pm

The hugy stuff is all strong except for the front crownwheel and pinion. You wont have a problem with cvs or axles but with 37s you will do front crownwheels, even with an air locker, they are very weak in reverse. I have seen plenty break trying to reverse out of trouble, they are not real tough going forwards either.

Once you have converted to them you can then do a gq conversion on the crownwheel where you weld the toyota tubes onto a gq housing, uses gq front diff centre, toyota axles and brakes and goes into where the toyota one came out

Paul

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

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