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Air compressor onboard - another option?
Air compressor onboard - another option?
I've got a bit of room under the bonnet on the left side of the engine bay. I've always carried a cheapie 12V compressor in one of the ammo boxes in the back. After discovering this site and reading through all 250-pages of the zook section there are a few things I've noted down for future reference - one of which is onboard air. I don't have A/C installed so figured it might be an idea to pick up a decent 12v compressor and some hose and bolt em into the engine bay, hooked up with a switch under the bonnet. Anyone see any major problems with doing this?
Yep this should work.
i have onboard air at the moment with no tank. with just orig air compressor running into inlet hose and outlet. i have a manual switch for switching it on.
works well, next stage is a tank in the back.
Nic
i have onboard air at the moment with no tank. with just orig air compressor running into inlet hose and outlet. i have a manual switch for switching it on.
works well, next stage is a tank in the back.
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
why not just mount an old aircon compressor where the factory one should sit. wire in a switch and you have instant air with much greater capacity than a 12volt one. probably wouldnt need a tank as well.
i will be doing this to my daughters sierra when i get round to it. got the compressor in the shed waiting
cookie monster
i will be doing this to my daughters sierra when i get round to it. got the compressor in the shed waiting
cookie monster
99 GU Patrol Wagon 4.2td
Yup, very doable. Had one set up on the LJ80 I used to have. I used a Pressure switch from an Industrial Compressor place. This unit has an adjustable on/off pressure and works on whatever voltage is fed to it! I think it was about $50 or something like that, I think from memory it was water and dust rated at about IP44, which means you would have to mount it up nice and high away from possible water crossings. In saying that mine was placed under the dash, was sunk underwater at least three times, its now going to be used on my latest rig. As an added bonus it also had about 3-4 Air outlets on the underside!
As for a tank, the best and safest thing you could do is get a truck air tank. Already pressure rated, no need to build it, but very expensive new (about $250). Next port of call, and definately the best option, Truck Wreckers, I managed to pick one up for about $30, just find your nearest Truck Wreckers and tell them what you want, normally you can go for a walk around the yard "shopping" for what you want.
The air compressor used was off a Falcon, they apparently pump something like 8 or 9 c.u. ft a minute. And they won't cost $450 like an endless air. Just remember to put an inline oiler on the intake side of the compressor. They will work without it, but not for too long.
Have Fun, Any questions, Just PM if you like.
Dano.
P.S Dont forget to get a check valve for the pressured line from the compressor to the tank, this releases the pressure after pumping the tank, so the line does't stay pressured. Also Dont forget an over pressure valve so if the compressor gets stuck on it doesn't obliterate the tank!
As for a tank, the best and safest thing you could do is get a truck air tank. Already pressure rated, no need to build it, but very expensive new (about $250). Next port of call, and definately the best option, Truck Wreckers, I managed to pick one up for about $30, just find your nearest Truck Wreckers and tell them what you want, normally you can go for a walk around the yard "shopping" for what you want.
The air compressor used was off a Falcon, they apparently pump something like 8 or 9 c.u. ft a minute. And they won't cost $450 like an endless air. Just remember to put an inline oiler on the intake side of the compressor. They will work without it, but not for too long.
Have Fun, Any questions, Just PM if you like.
Dano.
P.S Dont forget to get a check valve for the pressured line from the compressor to the tank, this releases the pressure after pumping the tank, so the line does't stay pressured. Also Dont forget an over pressure valve so if the compressor gets stuck on it doesn't obliterate the tank!
I got a 12V ViAir compressor mounted on the passengers’ side in the engine bay and still have room for a second battery.
I have not had any problems with it at all. Straight from compressor to tyre with nothing else pumps 31x12 no probs
The only 'real' mod was the air filter was moved into the cab via a hose (I didn’t do it, but I think it is for cleaner air and water crossings)
Tonight I got an empty 2kg fire extinguisher tonight which I am going to hook up as a reservoir with a pressure switch, and drain valve.
Fire extinguishers have weird threads so I have ground most of the spout off and will braze a pipe fitting on. This is not a huge reservoir but should hold enough air to activate lockers several times. The main purpose is so the compressor is not forever switching on and off.
Will post photos when I am done (probably 2 years like everything else )
Pressure switches can be had from ARB for about $30
http://www.bushranger.com.au/viair_pres ... itches.php
You should also run a safety relief valve is using a reservoir
http://www.bushranger.com.au/viair_onboard_air.php
Basic layouts
http://www.bushranger.com.au/compressor ... ayouts.php
The compressor in the pic above has been mounted there for 'years'. The extinguisher will go where the washer bottle is at the moment (sat it atop so you can get an idea)
Cheers
Wayne
I have not had any problems with it at all. Straight from compressor to tyre with nothing else pumps 31x12 no probs
The only 'real' mod was the air filter was moved into the cab via a hose (I didn’t do it, but I think it is for cleaner air and water crossings)
Tonight I got an empty 2kg fire extinguisher tonight which I am going to hook up as a reservoir with a pressure switch, and drain valve.
Fire extinguishers have weird threads so I have ground most of the spout off and will braze a pipe fitting on. This is not a huge reservoir but should hold enough air to activate lockers several times. The main purpose is so the compressor is not forever switching on and off.
Will post photos when I am done (probably 2 years like everything else )
Pressure switches can be had from ARB for about $30
http://www.bushranger.com.au/viair_pres ... itches.php
You should also run a safety relief valve is using a reservoir
http://www.bushranger.com.au/viair_onboard_air.php
Basic layouts
http://www.bushranger.com.au/compressor ... ayouts.php
The compressor in the pic above has been mounted there for 'years'. The extinguisher will go where the washer bottle is at the moment (sat it atop so you can get an idea)
Cheers
Wayne
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
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Hi fool_injected...
I tried to do exactly the same thing as your proposing with exactly the same compressor ( well it looks the same anyway ), and had a few problems.
The gasket between the valve cover and the "head" didn't like static pressure and kept squeezing out.
The discharge valve inside the compressor also didn't seal very well, which meant air leaked back through the compressor causing frequent starts
The compressor wasn't crazy about starting under load and got overly warm as I was using to activate the airlocker which required a lot higher pressure that normal tyre inflation.
Ended up chucking it for a whole different set of reasons ( DONT RUN THEM ON THEIR SIDE - THE DISCHARGE VALVE KEEPS FALLING OUT ! ) but a check valve between the compressor and receiver would be a really good idea IMO.
Just don't put it on or near the compressor if its plastic as the discharge air from the compressor will melt its internals.
Not saying yours won't work - just telling you what happened to mine.
I tried to do exactly the same thing as your proposing with exactly the same compressor ( well it looks the same anyway ), and had a few problems.
The gasket between the valve cover and the "head" didn't like static pressure and kept squeezing out.
The discharge valve inside the compressor also didn't seal very well, which meant air leaked back through the compressor causing frequent starts
The compressor wasn't crazy about starting under load and got overly warm as I was using to activate the airlocker which required a lot higher pressure that normal tyre inflation.
Ended up chucking it for a whole different set of reasons ( DONT RUN THEM ON THEIR SIDE - THE DISCHARGE VALVE KEEPS FALLING OUT ! ) but a check valve between the compressor and receiver would be a really good idea IMO.
Just don't put it on or near the compressor if its plastic as the discharge air from the compressor will melt its internals.
Not saying yours won't work - just telling you what happened to mine.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Makes sense what your sayingMightyMouse wrote:Hi fool_injected...
I tried to do exactly the same thing as your proposing with exactly the same compressor ( well it looks the same anyway ), and had a few problems.
...
Not saying yours won't work - just telling you what happened to mine.
I got all the stuff kicking around so I might to a temp setup and see how it goes, nothing to loose
I also want to use it for my airbrush (removable)
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
Hey Mighty Mouse,
What brand of compressor were u using?
I use a smaller ViAir Compressor the 275C. It is mounted vertically (Head Up position) on my firewall. It is plumbed using the stainless steel braided line directly to a 'T' piece (inside the alloy box). This 'T' piece has a pressure switch on it and a quick connector. The pressure switch shuts the compressor down when the pressure in the line goes over 140psi and back on at 105psi. While this doesn't run a tank yet (waiting for the next one our engineers test to become available) it means that I can use the Bushranger Jet-Set Tyre Inflator to fill the tyres without having to turn the compressor on and off manually. Everytime I am not using it, it simply charges the line to 140psi and shuts the compressor off for me. I plan to relocate the air filter into the cabin when I get the tank.
As for the mounting direction. The Viair and Bushranger compressors are all dry sump so they can be mounted on any angle. They are regularly mounted in odd positions in ricers for their fully sick suspension (ViAir is one of the best on the market for that application). If you are having issues with the pressure dropping etc, it may be warrantable.
To help with mounting try:
http://www.bushranger.com.au/compressor ... ayouts.php
http://www.bushranger.com.au/Jetset_tyre_inflator.php
P.S. Sorry bout the long ass reply, just done this a couple of times.
What brand of compressor were u using?
I use a smaller ViAir Compressor the 275C. It is mounted vertically (Head Up position) on my firewall. It is plumbed using the stainless steel braided line directly to a 'T' piece (inside the alloy box). This 'T' piece has a pressure switch on it and a quick connector. The pressure switch shuts the compressor down when the pressure in the line goes over 140psi and back on at 105psi. While this doesn't run a tank yet (waiting for the next one our engineers test to become available) it means that I can use the Bushranger Jet-Set Tyre Inflator to fill the tyres without having to turn the compressor on and off manually. Everytime I am not using it, it simply charges the line to 140psi and shuts the compressor off for me. I plan to relocate the air filter into the cabin when I get the tank.
As for the mounting direction. The Viair and Bushranger compressors are all dry sump so they can be mounted on any angle. They are regularly mounted in odd positions in ricers for their fully sick suspension (ViAir is one of the best on the market for that application). If you are having issues with the pressure dropping etc, it may be warrantable.
To help with mounting try:
http://www.bushranger.com.au/compressor ... ayouts.php
http://www.bushranger.com.au/Jetset_tyre_inflator.php
P.S. Sorry bout the long ass reply, just done this a couple of times.
http://www.bushranger.com.au/
'84 F70 Rocky :)
'97 Paj GLS LWB - HEHE
RIP ... My Feroza II SXP
'84 F70 Rocky :)
'97 Paj GLS LWB - HEHE
RIP ... My Feroza II SXP
i am also using a fire extinguisher about that size. the thread on it is a STOR type . from memory i think the size was -12 (dash 12). im pretty sure enzed or pirtec wuold sell them. failing that your local cat dealer has definatley got an adapter for you.fool_injected wrote: Fire extinguishers have weird threads so I have ground most of the spout off and will braze a pipe fitting on.
Jake
Hi Doc..
Can't remember the brand, as the old one has "gone to god"
Replaced it with two smaller units ( and they look like yours -but they are sold under so many different brands - it hard to tell ).
having pulled one apart to check out its internals - i think they are quite well designed and built, but an intake filter would be nice.
Each has a seperate check valve to prevent back leakage and runs into a reciever of about 2 ltr's capacity.
Controlled by ARB pressure switch and dash switch. Air locker solenoid connected to reciever.
Air connectors fitted just inside doors so inflating is very easy. IMO the two smaller compressors do a better job than the large single - and if one fails its not all over.
Having said all that, am going to an engine driven air compressor, as the electric are noisy and I havn't really had a good run with electric compressors ( ARB failures ) so I figure an engine driven one is just about the ultimate.
Can't remember the brand, as the old one has "gone to god"
Replaced it with two smaller units ( and they look like yours -but they are sold under so many different brands - it hard to tell ).
having pulled one apart to check out its internals - i think they are quite well designed and built, but an intake filter would be nice.
Each has a seperate check valve to prevent back leakage and runs into a reciever of about 2 ltr's capacity.
Controlled by ARB pressure switch and dash switch. Air locker solenoid connected to reciever.
Air connectors fitted just inside doors so inflating is very easy. IMO the two smaller compressors do a better job than the large single - and if one fails its not all over.
Having said all that, am going to an engine driven air compressor, as the electric are noisy and I havn't really had a good run with electric compressors ( ARB failures ) so I figure an engine driven one is just about the ultimate.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Yeah I have been told that if you do a conversion on an air conditioner compressor, it can handle some pretty intense flow-rates. Just need to mount it off another pulley.
I have read some threads about it before. Hope it all goes well.
I have read some threads about it before. Hope it all goes well.
http://www.bushranger.com.au/
'84 F70 Rocky :)
'97 Paj GLS LWB - HEHE
RIP ... My Feroza II SXP
'84 F70 Rocky :)
'97 Paj GLS LWB - HEHE
RIP ... My Feroza II SXP
Unfortunately there is just no way a York compressor could be made to fit, so its a modified vane unit with a home made recirculating oil system thingy.
Not the ideal system - but
1/ it fits ( prerequisite )
2/ uses factory bracket ( good for the welding challenged )
3/ cost nothing ( good for the financially challenged )
4/ have 2 spares ( good for the technology challenged )
5/ um - did I mention it fits ?
So what could go wrong ?
Not the ideal system - but
1/ it fits ( prerequisite )
2/ uses factory bracket ( good for the welding challenged )
3/ cost nothing ( good for the financially challenged )
4/ have 2 spares ( good for the technology challenged )
5/ um - did I mention it fits ?
So what could go wrong ?
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
fool_injected wrote:Makes sense what your sayingMightyMouse wrote:Hi fool_injected...
I tried to do exactly the same thing as your proposing with exactly the same compressor ( well it looks the same anyway ), and had a few problems.
...
Not saying yours won't work - just telling you what happened to mine.
I got all the stuff kicking around so I might to a temp setup and see how it goes, nothing to loose
I also want to use it for my airbrush (removable)
hey wayne , the comp in the black zook can be run on any angle , it has a check valve in the leader hose , and doesn't have any nylon valves and the valve is in the piston and not in the head. its a $450 viair 400c hardmount compressor 72lpm,/2.54cfm, has thermal cutouts so you cant cook it
.
AC compressors run SO much better with a bit of oil.11_evl wrote:more info on the recirculating oil system please??
Fit an oiler to the intake of the compressor after the air filter and then fit an oil trap to the outlet of the compressor.. Mount the trap above the oiler and you can recirculate your lube oil almost indefinately.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Air-Line-Lubrica ... dZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Devilbis ... enameZWD2V
Cool I was after the specsnoelb1 wrote: hey wayne , the comp in the black zook can be run on any angle , it has a check valve in the leader hose , and doesn't have any nylon valves and the valve is in the piston and not in the head. its a $450 viair 400c hardmount compressor 72lpm,/2.54cfm, has thermal cutouts so you cant cook it
.
The compressor cranks, I am just working on a better setup for the other truck.
I got a checkvalve so I will run it anyway
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
Its even better than that Want33's, as the discharge is at a higher pressure than the intake the oil is pushed back when the compressors running. Height doesn't matter a bit.
If its a vane compressor this oil feedback path is already built in, but they don't care if some is pumped around the A/C system as it all comes back eventually. As we have an open system we need to be more through
The "trick" i believe is to have a really good oil separator to prevent losses to the receiver.
If its a vane compressor this oil feedback path is already built in, but they don't care if some is pumped around the A/C system as it all comes back eventually. As we have an open system we need to be more through
The "trick" i believe is to have a really good oil separator to prevent losses to the receiver.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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