While changing springs the other day, I noticed that the standard shocks are restricting my downwards wheel travel by about 80mm at the front and a lot more at the rear. The guys at the local 4x4 store said 'no problem, just put longer shocks on' but I have some doubts about this:
It seems to me that longer shocks will also increase the potential for the shock to bottom before the bump stop rubber does its thing which cant be good for any shock. I cant see any articulation benefits in using an extended bumpstop.
Can anyone tell me specifically which shocks they are running which have increased downwards droop but still permit full compression on big bumps? The Rancho R$9000's are appealing at the moment but I dont want to smash them when I hit a big washout.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Longer shocks to improve downwards wheel travel
Re: Longer shocks to improve downwards wheel travel
Mark2 wrote: The Rancho R$9000's are appealing at the moment but I dont want to smash them when I hit a big washout.
GO with Koni's rebuildable, not that they ever need it, adn they arent piss weak.
Drafty wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote:Toyota 80 series in the front, but you will have to raise the shock tower, not that we have done that yet.
Havnt done it in the GU yet either.
We run coni truck shocks all round in the GQ.
We haven't had any probs so far, main reason we haven't done it (have modded towers sitting in the shed ready to go) is that the Patrol doesn't have a body lift, so there is no clearance to get the standard tower past the bodywork
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
bogged wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote:doesnt have a body lift,
mine is coming out as soon as I could be phukt...you take it out and replace the body mount rubbers (I'll supply!) while its apart, you can have the bolts etc for lift.... Just get some new bolts and nylocks to put mine back together
Don't plan on putting a bodylift in, works fine as it is
the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
Wendle wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote: the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.
tin snips
Can't get in there with tin snips, maybe and air nibbler
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
MKPatrolGuy wrote:Wendle wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote: the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.
tin snips
Can't get in there with tin snips, maybe and air nibbler
body saw or jig saw. I have cut mine in that area, can't remember what I used?
I probably just bent it back with a screwdriver!
Shock recommedation will depend a lot on the type of driving you are normally doing.
Depending on where I am driving, I actually have 2 complete suspension systems for my GU ute - custom wound 7" lift coils and a more modest set of Dobinson 4" lift coils.
With the taller lift I run Rancho adjustables (not sure of lenght off hand) and these are heaps softer even on their hardest setting than a lot of the other shocks. I run these when playing on the rocks.
With the smaller coils I have a set of rebuildable Koni's; more expensive but worth every cent. These are the sh!t for any longer or faster driving, especially over corrugations. Rancho's suffer from fade really quickly, just ask any of the guys who have run them in the OBC or on a trip up to the Cape.
If I could afford it, I'd get a pair of longer Koni's built but last quote was atound $300 a corner so they'll have to wait for a few more pay cheques!
Depending on where I am driving, I actually have 2 complete suspension systems for my GU ute - custom wound 7" lift coils and a more modest set of Dobinson 4" lift coils.
With the taller lift I run Rancho adjustables (not sure of lenght off hand) and these are heaps softer even on their hardest setting than a lot of the other shocks. I run these when playing on the rocks.
With the smaller coils I have a set of rebuildable Koni's; more expensive but worth every cent. These are the sh!t for any longer or faster driving, especially over corrugations. Rancho's suffer from fade really quickly, just ask any of the guys who have run them in the OBC or on a trip up to the Cape.
If I could afford it, I'd get a pair of longer Koni's built but last quote was atound $300 a corner so they'll have to wait for a few more pay cheques!
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests