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Longer shocks to improve downwards wheel travel
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 8:43 pm
by Mark2
While changing springs the other day, I noticed that the standard shocks are restricting my downwards wheel travel by about 80mm at the front and a lot more at the rear. The guys at the local 4x4 store said 'no problem, just put longer shocks on' but I have some doubts about this:
It seems to me that longer shocks will also increase the potential for the shock to bottom before the bump stop rubber does its thing which cant be good for any shock. I cant see any articulation benefits in using an extended bumpstop.
Can anyone tell me specifically which shocks they are running which have increased downwards droop but still permit full compression on big bumps? The Rancho R$9000's are appealing at the moment but I dont want to smash them when I hit a big washout.
Re: Longer shocks to improve downwards wheel travel
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:04 pm
by bogged
Mark2 wrote: The Rancho R$9000's are appealing at the moment but I dont want to smash them when I hit a big washout.
GO with Koni's rebuildable, not that they ever need it, adn they arent piss weak.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:24 pm
by hottiemonster
i got koni adjustable and rebuildable in mine.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:41 pm
by Mark2
Was mainly thinking about the Rancho's because of the adjustability - am after a soft shock because most gas shocks seem to have too much damping and consequently give a jarring ride on rough tracks (am happy with my spring rate) but, what about this issue of shock length to maximise wheel travel?
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:43 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
Toyota 80 series in the front, but you will have to raise the shock tower, not that we have done that yet.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:52 pm
by Drafty
MKPatrolGuy wrote:Toyota 80 series in the front, but you will have to raise the shock tower, not that we have done that yet.
Havnt done it in the GU yet either.
We run coni truck shocks all round in the GQ.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:58 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
Drafty wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote:Toyota 80 series in the front, but you will have to raise the shock tower, not that we have done that yet.
Havnt done it in the GU yet either.
We run coni truck shocks all round in the GQ.
We haven't had any probs so far, main reason we haven't done it (have modded towers sitting in the shed ready to go) is that the Patrol doesn't have a body lift, so there is no clearance to get the standard tower past the bodywork
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:03 pm
by A1
ive got 80 series in the front of mine now only a month or so old if ya interested rancho 9000x,s and i wanna sell as im goin 5 link and im gettin others .......will sell at reasonable price ???
if you are interested.....................
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:04 pm
by bogged
MKPatrolGuy wrote:doesnt have a body lift,
mine is coming out as soon as I could be phukt...you take it out and replace the body mount rubbers (I'll supply!) while its apart, you can have the bolts etc for lift.... Just get some new bolts and nylocks to put mine back together
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:08 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
bogged wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote:doesnt have a body lift,
mine is coming out as soon as I could be phukt...you take it out and replace the body mount rubbers (I'll supply!) while its apart, you can have the bolts etc for lift.... Just get some new bolts and nylocks to put mine back together
Don't plan on putting a bodylift in, works fine as it is
the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:02 am
by Wendle
MKPatrolGuy wrote: the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.
tin snips
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:05 am
by MKPatrolGuy
Wendle wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote: the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.
tin snips
Can't get in there with tin snips, maybe and air nibbler
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:10 am
by Wendle
MKPatrolGuy wrote:Wendle wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote: the only place the body is in the way of the towers is over the bolt at the back, so can undo the tower, just not lift it hight enough to clear the spring mount.
tin snips
Can't get in there with tin snips, maybe and air nibbler
body saw or jig saw. I have cut mine in that area, can't remember what I used?
I probably just bent it back with a screwdriver!
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:41 pm
by Butt Craic
Shock recommedation will depend a lot on the type of driving you are normally doing.
Depending on where I am driving, I actually have 2 complete suspension systems for my GU ute - custom wound 7" lift coils and a more modest set of Dobinson 4" lift coils.
With the taller lift I run Rancho adjustables (not sure of lenght off hand) and these are heaps softer even on their hardest setting than a lot of the other shocks. I run these when playing on the rocks.
With the smaller coils I have a set of rebuildable Koni's; more expensive but worth every cent. These are the sh!t for any longer or faster driving, especially over corrugations. Rancho's suffer from fade really quickly, just ask any of the guys who have run them in the OBC or on a trip up to the Cape.
If I could afford it, I'd get a pair of longer Koni's built but last quote was atound $300 a corner so they'll have to wait for a few more pay cheques!
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:49 pm
by bazzle
I run OME "L" series shocks,
Ring ARB for info
Bazzle
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:11 pm
by Juzza
Wendle wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote: probably just bent it back with a screwdriver!
Do it!
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 10:02 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
Juzza wrote:[quote="Wendle probably just bent it back with a screwdriver!
Do it!
[/quote]
Anyone who knows me, knows this is probably what I'll do