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3 inch suspension lift!!!
Moderator: Tiny
3 inch suspension lift!!!
well was using the u.s rocky email forums and someone has mentioned that they have a 3 inch suspension lift by modding their ball spacers, joints, etc etc. i emailed back for details but so far havent heard anything. the guy mentioned that he was runnin TIRE SIZE IS 33 X 12.5 X 15... nothing about changing out his drivetrain? also doesnt mention a body lift... i'm really puzzled here. for more info/pics check out his webpage. http://www.sports-only.com/all-sports/feroza/ jus thought i'd post this interesting bit of info.
[quote="simplypv"]its a Strine thing and i just dont understand![/quote]
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
I'd like to see a definition of the 3" Suspension Lift - 3" Lift from what, sagged original suspension ?? factory specs ?? Front & Rear ??
Rear is no problems - I had nearly 4" of lift in mine at its max - eventually settled around 3.5" which was perfect.
Front - with original front geometry kept original ( ie: no Control Arm & Diff Drop Brackets ) there is NO WAY you can get a reliable 3" ( 75mm ) lift out of the front. Note the word RELIABLE
60mm ( 2.25" ) was the absolute max I was willing to lift the front of mine by cranking the Torsion Bars & shaving the front bumpstops - & the only way I could get this to ride acceptably was to fit Ultimate Torsion Bars & Koni Shocks. At this height the CV Joints are already at a severe angle - any higher & they are in risk of self destructing.
The Ball Joint Spacers do not give you more lift in itself - all they do is raise the upper control arm back to a higher position - thus increasing the distance between the Upper Control Arm & the Upper Bumpstop. If you don't lift it anymore by cranking the Torsion Bars more then potentially you can increase your down travel ( I was going to try this but never got around to it ) OR you can crank the Torsion Bars up further to get even more lift - NOT a good idea in my opinion
33x12.5s ?? maybe - would certainly need either a Bodylift or a cutting of guards ( or no travel at all ) They would not be mounted to stock Alloy wheels - stock Feroza wheels are all 15x6" - 33x12.5's need a minimum of 15x8" rims. This big a wheel apart from killing your final drive ratio would also place way to big a strain on the original drivetrain - you would have to become pretty good at changing front CV's & Front Diffs if you wanted to run this big a tyre - not to mention steering components like the idler arm. 31's were as big a tyre as I would risk - & even these were pushing the limits.
But if it is only for looks - then go ahead, mount the 33's. If you want to actually be able to 4wd it & drive it home, stay conservative or plan Drivetrain Swaps ( axles etc. )
Just my $0.02 - Mike H.
Rear is no problems - I had nearly 4" of lift in mine at its max - eventually settled around 3.5" which was perfect.
Front - with original front geometry kept original ( ie: no Control Arm & Diff Drop Brackets ) there is NO WAY you can get a reliable 3" ( 75mm ) lift out of the front. Note the word RELIABLE
60mm ( 2.25" ) was the absolute max I was willing to lift the front of mine by cranking the Torsion Bars & shaving the front bumpstops - & the only way I could get this to ride acceptably was to fit Ultimate Torsion Bars & Koni Shocks. At this height the CV Joints are already at a severe angle - any higher & they are in risk of self destructing.
The Ball Joint Spacers do not give you more lift in itself - all they do is raise the upper control arm back to a higher position - thus increasing the distance between the Upper Control Arm & the Upper Bumpstop. If you don't lift it anymore by cranking the Torsion Bars more then potentially you can increase your down travel ( I was going to try this but never got around to it ) OR you can crank the Torsion Bars up further to get even more lift - NOT a good idea in my opinion
33x12.5s ?? maybe - would certainly need either a Bodylift or a cutting of guards ( or no travel at all ) They would not be mounted to stock Alloy wheels - stock Feroza wheels are all 15x6" - 33x12.5's need a minimum of 15x8" rims. This big a wheel apart from killing your final drive ratio would also place way to big a strain on the original drivetrain - you would have to become pretty good at changing front CV's & Front Diffs if you wanted to run this big a tyre - not to mention steering components like the idler arm. 31's were as big a tyre as I would risk - & even these were pushing the limits.
But if it is only for looks - then go ahead, mount the 33's. If you want to actually be able to 4wd it & drive it home, stay conservative or plan Drivetrain Swaps ( axles etc. )
Just my $0.02 - Mike H.
Mike Hennessy
Hilux Surf ( Big One )
Hilux Mountaineer ( Little one ) ;-)
Hilux Surf ( Big One )
Hilux Mountaineer ( Little one ) ;-)
I thought that Feroza was familiar- the guys a member on here "Wolfpack" - see the thread below for more details on what he's done:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... c&start=20
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... c&start=20
David
but he still hasnt mentioned how he did a 3 inch lift.... not that i want to do it. but i'm jus trying to understand how it was done....
[quote="simplypv"]its a Strine thing and i just dont understand![/quote]
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
It's all about realigning/ spacing the front suspension to move the hub the wheel bolts to lower while still retaining the same bumpstop. Have a look at your front suspension and you'll most likely work out what he's on about.
The spacer is put in between the top arm and the hub the wheel bolts onto effectively pushing the wheel down further and giving more lift. But it wouldn't do any favours to the driveshafts as they have limits on the angles they will work on before breaking. That means you need to lower the diff centre to fix the driveshaft angle problem, which in turn means the driveshaft from the transfer case to the diff is now on a sharper angle etc etc. Lots of stuff needs to be done for it to work.
(that's a very simple explanation- feel free to correct it anyone
)
The spacer is put in between the top arm and the hub the wheel bolts onto effectively pushing the wheel down further and giving more lift. But it wouldn't do any favours to the driveshafts as they have limits on the angles they will work on before breaking. That means you need to lower the diff centre to fix the driveshaft angle problem, which in turn means the driveshaft from the transfer case to the diff is now on a sharper angle etc etc. Lots of stuff needs to be done for it to work.
(that's a very simple explanation- feel free to correct it anyone
)David
NE1 seen the story on a 3 inch lift of a IFS Frontera in Feb 04 Aust 4WD Monthly???
Looks interesting enough but would love to see next month's report when they test it.
Looks interesting enough but would love to see next month's report when they test it.
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FerociousFeroza wrote:NE1 seen the story on a 3 inch lift of a IFS Frontera in Feb 04 Aust 4WD Monthly???
Looks interesting enough but would love to see next month's report when they test it.
Yup I saw it and it was on the isuzu MU. Calmini make a 3 inch lift kit for them.
Wish a kit like that was made for the feroza
James
94 cxi feroza- coiled rear!!! SOLD !!!!!
05 s/cab 5L-e hilux- bring on the mods
94 cxi feroza- coiled rear!!! SOLD !!!!!
05 s/cab 5L-e hilux- bring on the mods
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