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TD42 and fuel

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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TD42 and fuel

Post by MyGQ »

Wanted to know the following

If a TD42 is over fueling, will it cause the engine to overheat or read higher on the temp guage? i know it will increase EGT's but wanted to know if that will get into the cooling system and cause high temp heat readings?
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Post by ozy1 »

from what i believe, burining extra fuel causes extra heat, which is then absorbed by your cooling system, which will also read hotter,
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Post by MyGQ »

its only when revving the engine hard going up hills or with load that it does it. No turbo yet on her but will be soon, so i want to get all this cooling shit out the way b4 i turbo it and add more heat
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Post by oondy »

I have/had cooling troubles too, well i did, just the usual like mud in radiator and what not....but now i've turboed it it actually runs cooler most of the time, especially up long hills on the highway. Pre Turbo the temp would creep up to about 2/3 on the gauge, now it sits at 1/4 and doesn't move, unless i'm stupid and just put my foot down, then the EGT climbs and after a while the coolant temp does.....I still haven't flushed the crud from my radiator fins though.

cheers

OONDY
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Post by beretta »

You might want to look at re-oiling th viscous hub for the engine fan. Mine was having all sorts of issues overheating and I re-oilede the viscous hub and that fixed the problem.
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Post by MyGQ »

Brand new clutch fan in it.

It seems to be when under load, so i am assuming fuel
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Post by bogged »

have you had it tuned at all by someone who knows diesels?
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Post by canuck »

MyGQ wrote:its only when revving the engine hard going up hills or with load that it does it. No turbo yet on her but will be soon, so i want to get all this cooling shit out the way b4 i turbo it and add more heat
Usually if you are reving the engine you will be preventing overfueling. It generally occurs when you lug the engine at low RPMs with the skinny pedal to the floor. In doing so you are dumping in lots of fuel but not much air, so the fuel doe not combust properly leading to high EGTs. Drop an gear and increase your RPMs and you will pull in more air to get better combustion and lower your EGTs. In addition, by dropping a gear or two and increasing your RPM you also increase the cooling provided by the pump cirulating the coolant and your fan pulling heat out of the coolant in your rad. So, don't be afraid to rev her hard. Its a hell of a lot better than lugging.
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Post by MyGQ »

bogged wrote:have you had it tuned at all by someone who knows diesels?
Not yet, i am at the point where i am looking at giving it to a tech and say check this out for me

its so strange, as soon as it hits a hill, even without Revs, she starts the climb the heat ladder, you can watch it on the temp gauge go up, even at low RPM's

got me buggared, time for a new engine :)
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Post by vanbox »

beretta wrote:You might want to look at re-oiling th viscous hub for the engine fan. Mine was having all sorts of issues overheating and I re-oilede the viscous hub and that fixed the problem.
can this be done to a tb42? mine appreaded to be a sealed unit??/

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Post by Ezookiel »

vanbox wrote:
beretta wrote:You might want to look at re-oiling th viscous hub for the engine fan. Mine was having all sorts of issues overheating and I re-oilede the viscous hub and that fixed the problem.
can this be done to a tb42? mine appreaded to be a sealed unit??/

PAUL
My understanding is that genuine diesel ones are serviceable, and non diesel ones aren't.
There is a way to service them by drilling two holes in them and filling with a syringe till oil comes out the second hole, then sealing them with a screw, but it's hardly guaranteed. There's a link somewhere to a series of photos that explain the process if you wanted to try it.

Your problem sounds SOOO much like mine, but mine was a dodgy turbo. When I'd climb, the turbo would run non-stop, and would boil the water it was pumping back into the cooling system.
I have no idea why yours would do it without a turbo. I just hope you solve it more easily than I did. I went with new radiator, bigger radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, thermos on, thermos off, new fan clutch, even an engine overhaul.
Finally fixed it with a $13,500 new engine, new turbo, and added an intercooler. And that wasn't including the costs of the original work on radiators, pumps, etc.
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Post by Rambo »

I had same problem with me old Toyato 60 series, replaced with new radiator, fixed problem, coolant needle never moved past 1/4 ever again, even when flogging it up Stocken sand dunes in the middle of summer with air cond. on!
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Post by Frankenyota »

Get the radiator and cooling system checked out first.

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Post by MyGQ »

the cooling system is all new, Pump, 3 core rad, thermostat, full flush.

new temp sensor just incase,
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Post by Frankenyota »

Did you check the clutch fan?
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Post by MyGQ »

new fan also
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