Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Driveshaft angles / Vibrations
Driveshaft angles / Vibrations
First of all i have a coily that is about 4 - 5 inch lifted over standard when i made my control arms i designed it so that the shock mounts on the rear diff would still line up, when i did this i was not considering drive shaft angles, now i have trouble getting the transfer to sit low enough to stop tailshaft virations without it being pretty much solid mounted which causes another problem all together, also if i tilt the transfer up at the front shaft then has to much of an angle on it, is there anyway of sorting this out without changing the pinion angle (making new control arms) or dropping the case so low that the jackshaft angle is messed up and loose clearance.
really need some pics to get the right idea of what your saying but I guess the pinion is pointing more towards the front diff than towards the transfer? If so instead of lowering the transfer to get a straight line out of your tailshaft, try positioning the transfer so as both rear diff flange and rear output flange on the transfer are parallel so that each uni on the tail shaft have the same angles. keeping in mind the same thing is happening with your jack shaft too.
yeah the diffs are rotated but not quite enough, how much difference did the double cardian joints make , because it really is only a slight vibration i think it is pretty much right on the edge of being alright.

from this point i would still like to be able to make the transfer mounts another 5 - 10mm taller i think the shaft angle at the transfer is the problem the diff doesn't look to bad. they really both don't look to bad i might have some other issue lol.

from this point i would still like to be able to make the transfer mounts another 5 - 10mm taller i think the shaft angle at the transfer is the problem the diff doesn't look to bad. they really both don't look to bad i might have some other issue lol.
no can do it wont run properly, all u need is one.alien wrote:mine might be running 2 double cardan's to help alleviate this very issue... but diffs are also rotated.
and goin by that pic smaller unis will always vibrate at larger angles, but larger unis will take u more of an angle, i used to run a dc it was a pain in the ass in the back of the zook had to redo the pivot bearing alot because it would always flog out. in mine i ended up runing toyota unis with upgraded shaft and it seem to of fixed the problem, but i was workin in a driveline shop at the time so it was all free

buggy time............
Just wondering, its considered advisable to have an angle on uni's to ensure the needle rollers dont simply hammer marks into the cage and/or develop lubrication problems because their not moving.gman79au wrote:or you could get rid of the front uni and have a cv joint installed that would fix your problem, raise the transfer a bit so your rear uni is straight and have all the angle in the cv coming out of the transfer. Jimny style.
How do Jimny's joints last ?
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests