Outer Limits 4x4 Board

First of all i have a coily that is about 4 - 5 inch lifted over standard when i made my control arms i designed it so that the shock mounts on the rear diff would still line up, when i did this i was not considering drive shaft angles, now i have trouble getting the transfer to sit low enough to stop tailshaft virations without it being pretty much solid mounted which causes another problem all together, also if i tilt the transfer up at the front shaft then has to much of an angle on it, is there anyway of sorting this out without changing the pinion angle (making new control arms) or dropping the case so low that the jackshaft angle is messed up and loose clearance.

have you thought about rotating the transfer instead of just lowering it?
might work????

on a zook because the rear shaft is to short u really have to rotate the diff.

really need some pics to get the right idea of what your saying but I guess the pinion is pointing more towards the front diff than towards the transfer? If so instead of lowering the transfer to get a straight line out of your tailshaft, try positioning the transfer so as both rear diff flange and rear output flange on the transfer are parallel so that each uni on the tail shaft have the same angles. keeping in mind the same thing is happening with your jack shaft too.

mine might be running 2 double cardan's to help alleviate this very issue... but diffs are also rotated.

yeah the diffs are rotated but not quite enough, how much difference did the double cardian joints make , because it really is only a slight vibration i think it is pretty much right on the edge of being alright.



from this point i would still like to be able to make the transfer mounts another 5 - 10mm taller i think the shaft angle at the transfer is the problem the diff doesn't look to bad. they really both don't look to bad i might have some other issue lol.

i dont know about the vibrations - it aint been driven =) haha

lol fair enough

you can have your uni's running on angle as long as both uni's are on the same angle your front one is has more than the back could be the vibration. they will just need regular greasing if they are running on an angle. haflinger's have about 20 degree's or more on there uni's its works

or you could get rid of the front uni and have a cv joint installed that would fix your problem, raise the transfer a bit so your rear uni is straight and have all the angle in the cv coming out of the transfer. Jimny style.

alien wrote:mine might be running 2 double cardan's to help alleviate this very issue... but diffs are also rotated.

no can do it wont run properly, all u need is one.

and goin by that pic smaller unis will always vibrate at larger angles, but larger unis will take u more of an angle, i used to run a dc it was a pain in the ass in the back of the zook had to redo the pivot bearing alot because it would always flog out. in mine i ended up runing toyota unis with upgraded shaft and it seem to of fixed the problem, but i was workin in a driveline shop at the time so it was all free .

so jimny's have a different joint at the transfer how difficult are these to swap in and who knows where one is, i would love to get my transfer back at close to standard position.

my post sounded weird... i meant dc in the front and a dc in the rear... hence the "two" comment... not 2 on the same shaft =)

You need to rotate (splines) one joint 90 degrees to line up the yokes as a starter.

What model BMW do you have?

R1100S it's dads ride


it's for sale at the moment he is getting a KTM 640 enduro instead, he wants 10,000 for it if anyone is interested.

Sam

and i will line up the yokes, i just swapped the diff thats the only thing that changed thats probly my problem thanks mate

Thought it was a R1100S. Nice bike, he'll be sorry after its gone, but the KTM will ease the pain

yeah lol he keeps getting to gravel roads and having to come home lol, anyway i rotated it 90 degrees and it is perfect thanks heaps mate.

sam

gman79au wrote:or you could get rid of the front uni and have a cv joint installed that would fix your problem, raise the transfer a bit so your rear uni is straight and have all the angle in the cv coming out of the transfer. Jimny style.

Just wondering, its considered advisable to have an angle on uni's to ensure the needle rollers dont simply hammer marks into the cage and/or develop lubrication problems because their not moving.

How do Jimny's joints last ?

rear jimny joint so far has lasted 160000km front joint needed to be rebuilt as the boot split around the cv. you can only buy complete tailshaft from suzuki so had the the cv joint rebuilt about 40k ago and the guy put a stronger boot on too. No problems with the uni though.

Thanks. Good to know how other options stand up.... Those pesky vibrations can be hard to get rid off.