So i bought a used timing gun with no manual and I am trying to make sure that I am doing this right. I am assuming the 1.3L is the same as the 1.6L in this regard. 1) disconnect lower vacuum hose on distributor. plug hose from intake 2) connect power cords and adjust dial to 3 degrees BTDC. Aim the gun at crank pulley and move distributor until white tdc mark is in middle of the timing cover marker.
Of course the engine is warmed up and idling steadily under 1000 with no electrics on. Is this right? First time setting ignition timing and want to make sure. Thanks ahead of time for any input.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
question about how to set ignition timing for feroza.
Moderator: Tiny
From memory.....
disconnect/plug both hoses
idle 750 rpm ( before centrifugal advance cuts in )
crank mark is in middle of indicator on plastic timing belt cover when timing is factory, Ends are +/- 3deg
Feroza's are great pingers so you may have to play ( retard ) a bit if its an issue. If you can get more advance without ping then do it .....
I have given up on factory timing, start advanced, drive and knock it back till it stops pinging under load.
Variable fuel quality may also mean more retard than factory. I always strike crap fuel from country service stations so I am quite conservative with timing - eventually.....
disconnect/plug both hoses
idle 750 rpm ( before centrifugal advance cuts in )
crank mark is in middle of indicator on plastic timing belt cover when timing is factory, Ends are +/- 3deg
Feroza's are great pingers so you may have to play ( retard ) a bit if its an issue. If you can get more advance without ping then do it .....
I have given up on factory timing, start advanced, drive and knock it back till it stops pinging under load.
Variable fuel quality may also mean more retard than factory. I always strike crap fuel from country service stations so I am quite conservative with timing - eventually.....
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Only one vacuum line needs to be plugged. You can tell which one by checking with the timing light - one will reduce the amount of advance you get at idle, the other will do nothing. Or another way is to check which hose has vacuum in it at idle- that's the one to disconnect/ block.(Doing both will have the same end result - you're just doing extra unnecessary stuff.)
Be very careful with the pinging- although the 1.3l mightn't be as bad? I run mine on a strict diet of 98 RON fuel.
BTW you're engine might be a bit different with the settings being a 1.3???
Be very careful with the pinging- although the 1.3l mightn't be as bad? I run mine on a strict diet of 98 RON fuel.
BTW you're engine might be a bit different with the settings being a 1.3???
David
True ( manual agrees ).
And on the preignition subject, when I stripped the old tired engine I expected to find some signs of damage to the pistons / head etc as I ran it on the edge for quite awhile and when it was fully loaded and hot it would have a trace ping.
No damage was evident ( apart from worn out.... ).
So whilst Murcods right, you can run on the LOWER edge without too much risk.
The 1.3 pistons are a domed design and give a bit more squish so it could well tolerate a bit more static timing.
I was convinced it was No. 1 cylinder that was the most likely to run lean as its manifold shape is @#$% but having had a good look at things I am leaning to the opinion that the cylinder head runs too hot.
Should have opened up the holes in the headgasket a little when I was putting it together but didn't think of it then.
Next time.
And on the preignition subject, when I stripped the old tired engine I expected to find some signs of damage to the pistons / head etc as I ran it on the edge for quite awhile and when it was fully loaded and hot it would have a trace ping.
No damage was evident ( apart from worn out.... ).
So whilst Murcods right, you can run on the LOWER edge without too much risk.
The 1.3 pistons are a domed design and give a bit more squish so it could well tolerate a bit more static timing.
I was convinced it was No. 1 cylinder that was the most likely to run lean as its manifold shape is @#$% but having had a good look at things I am leaning to the opinion that the cylinder head runs too hot.
Should have opened up the holes in the headgasket a little when I was putting it together but didn't think of it then.
Next time.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
The pinging is definitely related to coolant temp. (That was very obvious with my first attempt at an electric thermofan.) If your temp guage is up be very careful of loading the engine up a hill.
It's reassuring to hear that they can handle a bit without damage. I think the people who run into trouble are the ones who don't know what to listen for. I've also found mine is usually transitional- ie. be gentle with the accelerator up hills in hot weather, don't suddenly floor it or you will get pinging. It's probably partly a case of the distributor mechanicals being a bit slow to retard the timing?
It's reassuring to hear that they can handle a bit without damage. I think the people who run into trouble are the ones who don't know what to listen for. I've also found mine is usually transitional- ie. be gentle with the accelerator up hills in hot weather, don't suddenly floor it or you will get pinging. It's probably partly a case of the distributor mechanicals being a bit slow to retard the timing?
David
You talk about running in hot weather i live in the tropics around cairns and surrounds and it can be from 20 - 44 deg c and i have never had trouble with the roza and pinging. I quiet often tow a trailer behind and its never given trouble even working steep climbs in low range for 5 or more k/s it still just goes without pinging or pre det. Even my old corrolla that does have trouble with pinging hasn't suffered any engine damage been keep a close eye on it and showing no sign.
Chris
Chris
Forum Administrator of 4x4 Play FNQ
Please Visit us at [url=http://www.4x4playfnq.com]4x4 Play FNQ[/url]
Please Visit us at [url=http://www.4x4playfnq.com]4x4 Play FNQ[/url]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests