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I have a 91 GQ with electric windows. At last the drivers side window has carked it. I have cleaned the contacts on the switches in the past and that has got the window working. No luck this time though. It started playing up recently and I had to press the switch repeatedly to get it to go either up or down. No joy any more . The window is now stuck down
I have taken the door skin off and had a look at the motor and there is nothing visibly wrong (that I can tell but hey I am by no means mechanically minded ).
When I press the switch the amp attached to the motor clicks on and off. I assume this means the switch and the relay are working and the motor is shagged. Is this correct?
If so, how much is Mr Nissan going to bleed me for a new motor etc?
run 12volts directly to the motor to see if it works.. conect it both ways to see if it moves... if not hit the wreckers up ... probably cheaper to buy a second hand door then a new motor from nissan considering they want nearly $200 for the window mech alone...
As suggested I ran 12 volts to the motor and was able to get the window up and down no worries. On this basis it seems that the motor is not stuffed. I don't think the switch is stuffed either, in my original e-mail I had pulled it apart and cleaned up the contacts.
When I press the switch I can hear a distinct "click" from the rectangular black box that feeds power to the motor. This black box clips onto the motor inside the door skin (and is removable as a separate part) with two wires that plug into the motor. I unplugged the plug from the motor and ran the 12 volts direct to it.
Is this black box a relay of some sort and is it a nissan part in its own right that I can get from the dealer?
Hey mate, had same problem with mine. The motor works fine, switch was fine, it was that black box relay thing. I think it has something to do with getting the motor to cut out on the automatic up and down once the motor gets some ressitance.
Nissan charge shtloads for new ones, a few hundred bucks. I went out to Halls 4x4 salvage, got a good one for not too much and worked a treat. They get that problem all the time so you might need to call around to find one.
Hi guys
i also had the same trouble with my GQ i pulled the relay box apart and found one of the connection pins for the plug had come loose from the solder
a new dab of solder fixed the problem
Mine has started playing up too. Sometimes it winds really fast like the passenger window but othertimes it really struggles. Also makes all sorts of horrible clunking noises when just starting to go down or up. I'm assuming its got some worn gears.
Guess I should start by cleaning the switch contacts and resoldering the magic black box in the door?
umm, its not sticking like buggery in the tracks is it?
if its clicking, the relay is working. or bloody well should be. if not it shouldnt click.
if its sensing too much load, its going, alright, someones head is stuck in there, better stop before i brain them.
soo...my theory, pull the glass out and try the switch.
if it runs free, you know its the window sticking.
if its still fubar, politely tell me to go away
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
baggers wrote:Hey mate, had same problem with mine. The motor works fine, switch was fine, it was that black box relay thing. I think it has something to do with getting the motor to cut out on the automatic up and down once the motor gets some ressitance.
I've got the same problem with mine as well
love ke70 wrote: just a little persuasion with a screw driver was all that was needed
then some super glue to reseal it
Tried but couldn't get mine apart
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I have a similar problem, but it is with the passenger side power window. I have since pulled out the black box (which, btw, is called a "Power window amplifier" according to Gregorys) and resoldered the PCB. This didn't make any difference to the performance of passenger side window. The drivers side was, and still is, OK.
Also, the passenger side window still operates without this black box plugged in. It seems only to drive the drivers side (not sure of back windows as I have a shorty).
This is the funny thing. It only sticks when operated by the passenger side door switch. If I operate the passenger side window with the driver's side switch it won't stick no matter how hard I try. It will stick within 2 or 3 goes when using passenger side switch. When it is stuck, the driver's side switch will not make it go. The only way to get it going again is to go up and down on the passenger side switch until it comes up.
So, from what I can deduce, it's not the black box. It's not the motor, as I have changed this before. It's not the driver's side switch and I have checked for closing circuit on the passenger side switch.
What tells the motor to stop when it has reached the top (or bottom)? Like I said, I can run the passenger side window with the black box disconnected. I didn't seem to see any electronics in the motor when I had it apart. Nothing else in the wiring diagram apart from the black box. It does state under each motor that it has a regulator and has a circuit breaker.
This not a big issue, it's been like this since I got the car, but it's something that I would like to solve (or at least understand) for my own curiosity more than anything else.
. The window is now stuck down 
).
.