OK, so its time to start doing some research to get my build up and rolling.
Bit if a run down on what I have and what I want to get done.
Currently have
89 WT sierra, Series 3s, F&R detroits, 2inch B/L, 32 Simexs, etc.
And what I want to do is
1. extend the rear of the chassis, so that I can get a WB of around 95 to 100 inches and still keep it road legal (so that every second person doesn’t ask me, im doing it this way, because I don’t want to cut it into a single cab ute, I want something a little different)
2. coil front and rear
3. Hilux diffs
My collection of parts as it sits is
1. Hilux diffs with 4.88s and high steer
2. 12 inch coils 150 pound rating
3. what else will I be needing
I want to go with a 4 link rear, using 52mm solid alloy bar for the links (same as what is being used in a lot of the rock crawler buggies)
No sure on what to run in the front tho, also unsure of what to use for the rod ends, I have heard that Rubicon Express make a replacement joint that are able to be fully rebuilt.
And how do I work out link length, and all the required angles and which to run them etc etc etc.
I am open to any and all suggestions, from ppl who have done coil conversions before. I wanna do this once only and want to get it right!!
-Pyro
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new build up
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Zooks are for people that aren't afraid of angles and who have nothing to compensate for
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God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
What size tyres do you want to run?
For the links, you will most likley need bushes, as from memory heims etc are illegal for road use.
I emailed you too at work
Layto....
For the links, you will most likley need bushes, as from memory heims etc are illegal for road use.
I emailed you too at work
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
full bodied all the way 
Souns great. Be sure to post the build up on here!
I would recommend looking up some pro's & con's of 4-link suspension setups. Remember they take up quite a bit of space. this may include considering relocating the fuel tank etc, no biggie tho.
A good article that helped me get a bit of a grasp (if nothing else, im not super technical minded) on 4-links is here...
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
Souns great. Be sure to post the build up on here!
I would recommend looking up some pro's & con's of 4-link suspension setups. Remember they take up quite a bit of space. this may include considering relocating the fuel tank etc, no biggie tho.
A good article that helped me get a bit of a grasp (if nothing else, im not super technical minded) on 4-links is here...
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
sounds good pyro. tough but neat. as lay8on sayed you will need rubber bushes. legallity aside it will drive a lot better with rubber, but i don't know how you would do it out of alloy. and you should run bout 4100 rpm at 100. nice.
before you get your diffs in, can you stand them on your bathroom scales. i would love to know what the combined weight difference is between f & r hilux vs f & r wt zuk. need some diffs for my dual cab but can't find wt around the area, considering luxs
jason.
before you get your diffs in, can you stand them on your bathroom scales. i would love to know what the combined weight difference is between f & r hilux vs f & r wt zuk. need some diffs for my dual cab but can't find wt around the area, considering luxs
jason.
WANTED: swb vitara rear seat. the 3 seater bench type
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
Sounds very similar to what Im about to start too. For link ends, Im going rubber GQ control arm bushes.
What are you planning to do with your fuel tank? Im cutting out the rear floor and raising it about 8 or so inches and moving the tank up. If you have come up with a better idea Id love to hear about it as its going to be a PITA
Do you have the 4-link calculator? If not, have a search on pirate for posts by 'Triaged' and download it (I can email it to you if you prefer). Then read this to work out what does what. Then just start playing around with numbers to see what works for you. From what Ive read 70% +/- %10 is the anti-squat numbers you want to be aiming for. Also, again from what Ive read, you want to try and incorporate triangulation into both upper and lower links.
If you havent already, have a read of this to get you started, paying attention to the posts by Strangrover in particular.
Im fairly sure you wont need to extend your chassis if you're running coils too.
What are you planning to do with your fuel tank? Im cutting out the rear floor and raising it about 8 or so inches and moving the tank up. If you have come up with a better idea Id love to hear about it as its going to be a PITA
Do you have the 4-link calculator? If not, have a search on pirate for posts by 'Triaged' and download it (I can email it to you if you prefer). Then read this to work out what does what. Then just start playing around with numbers to see what works for you. From what Ive read 70% +/- %10 is the anti-squat numbers you want to be aiming for. Also, again from what Ive read, you want to try and incorporate triangulation into both upper and lower links.
If you havent already, have a read of this to get you started, paying attention to the posts by Strangrover in particular.
Im fairly sure you wont need to extend your chassis if you're running coils too.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
I had a quick look and realised it was in my Favourites 
4-link Analyser Link
You will also need,
Powersteering box/pump/resevoir(sp)
Master cylinder upgrade (Im using GQ two bolt MC)
Tailshafts (Im using cut down bundera rear tailshaft and homebrew boxsection front)
Brake lines
4-link Analyser Link
You will also need,
Powersteering box/pump/resevoir(sp)
Master cylinder upgrade (Im using GQ two bolt MC)
Tailshafts (Im using cut down bundera rear tailshaft and homebrew boxsection front)
Brake lines
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Link specs to aim for -
Rear
70-80% AS
Flat or slightly roll understeer axis
Roll center about equal to top of tyre
Front
80% or so AD
Flat lower links (helps with link recession)
Fairly equal Roll centre to rear
Flat roll axis
About that anyway.
Layto....
Rear
70-80% AS
Flat or slightly roll understeer axis
Roll center about equal to top of tyre
Front
80% or so AD
Flat lower links (helps with link recession)
Fairly equal Roll centre to rear
Flat roll axis
About that anyway.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
g
thanks for all the help so far, as i said im just in the very early stage of this build so all info will be taken on board
but yes youare right can get over 100inchs w/o extending
in regards to the link analyzer.. iv got no idea, thats why im employing layto do work out my angles
-Pyro
i want to do the extension, so that its still pretty full body and the cops wont keep hassling me with 37s hanging out the front and back of my car.v840 wrote: Im fairly sure you wont need to extend your chassis if you're running coils too.
but yes youare right can get over 100inchs w/o extending
in regards to the link analyzer.. iv got no idea, thats why im employing layto do work out my angles
i had the crazy thought of using a 60 series landcruiser tank, i have one laying around from another build of mine, and by taking about 10mm off the edge of the seams, (there is about 30mm each side) it will fit in between the rear wheel arches,, so i was going to either mount it on top of the floor and make a false floor over it.. or cut the floor out, mount the tank and then fit the floor over the top... just my crazy mind playing. let me know what ya thinkv840 wrote: What are you planning to do with your fuel tank? Im cutting out the rear floor and raising it about 8 or so inches and moving the tank up. If you have come up with a better idea Id love to hear about it as its going to be a PITA Very Happy
the alloy would only work if i could run a heim or similar that has an external thread, so that i can tap the end of the alloy, but if i cant get anything like that, then i will have to run steel linksmr green wrote: i don't know how you would do it out of alloy. a
jason.
-Pyro
Zooks are for people that aren't afraid of angles and who have nothing to compensate for
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Hey mate , sounds like you will be busy , was reading your post , thought of one or two you things you will need :
Upper and lower coil mounts , preferably with captive springs.
New rear shock crossmember as you plan too move the diff back.
New upper and lower shock mounts , longer shocks.
Tube to extend chassis , but if you move your tank higher you won"t need a chassis extension.
Modification to fuel filler / tank to allow for tyre movement.
Removal and relocation of rear tail lights and bar to allow for tyre travel.
Tail shafts , front and rear.
New brake lines.
Some type of rear brake bias device.
Custom exhaust to fit round all your new suspension so it doesn't fowl anywhere.
Stronger transfer mounts and some type of reduction gearing.
MIght want to think about your gearbox and engine mounts as the original one's won't last with the extra load.
Heavy duty front steering dampner.
Some type of mudguard to cover the wheels.
Just a few things to think about while you compile info for the build.
Also nissan patol bushes are fine on lower links but on top links if the car is to be driven on the road full time they allow torque steer so I have used solid nylon bushes to avoid this.
You want to rebuild your diffs while out and if you choose to run lockers fit them while there apart. Alot of people including myself have experienced tyre shimmy and this is due to a combination of play in tthe font diff components such as the :
Wheel bearings being loose.
Kingpin bearings being worn or loose , notchy.
Steering arms being loose on top of the kingpins.
loose or incorrectly fitting steering arms.
If you go for a panhard rod in the front your steering arm should be of similiar angle and length to avoid steering loss during articulation.
Placement of links on the diff and chassis is critical as this will make the car drive good or badly. To close and the car will lean over to much , to wide and the wheels will bind on the links and you will have poor articulation under load.
Good luck with the build , Cheers Paul.
Upper and lower coil mounts , preferably with captive springs.
New rear shock crossmember as you plan too move the diff back.
New upper and lower shock mounts , longer shocks.
Tube to extend chassis , but if you move your tank higher you won"t need a chassis extension.
Modification to fuel filler / tank to allow for tyre movement.
Removal and relocation of rear tail lights and bar to allow for tyre travel.
Tail shafts , front and rear.
New brake lines.
Some type of rear brake bias device.
Custom exhaust to fit round all your new suspension so it doesn't fowl anywhere.
Stronger transfer mounts and some type of reduction gearing.
MIght want to think about your gearbox and engine mounts as the original one's won't last with the extra load.
Heavy duty front steering dampner.
Some type of mudguard to cover the wheels.
Just a few things to think about while you compile info for the build.
Also nissan patol bushes are fine on lower links but on top links if the car is to be driven on the road full time they allow torque steer so I have used solid nylon bushes to avoid this.
You want to rebuild your diffs while out and if you choose to run lockers fit them while there apart. Alot of people including myself have experienced tyre shimmy and this is due to a combination of play in tthe font diff components such as the :
Wheel bearings being loose.
Kingpin bearings being worn or loose , notchy.
Steering arms being loose on top of the kingpins.
loose or incorrectly fitting steering arms.
If you go for a panhard rod in the front your steering arm should be of similiar angle and length to avoid steering loss during articulation.
Placement of links on the diff and chassis is critical as this will make the car drive good or badly. To close and the car will lean over to much , to wide and the wheels will bind on the links and you will have poor articulation under load.
Good luck with the build , Cheers Paul.
BLOWNZUK 1.3 efi,sc14 supercharger,hilux diffs,detroit lockers,stage 4 rockhopper,6 point cage,35 muddies.
greg just get a set of gq links dosent matter if they are shagged
just extend them way cheaper then a RE joint
who cares if they are rebuildible
(you hear of many people rebuilding there link ends??)
the 4 link calculator is a crock of shit
unless u have the equipment to find your center of gravity (corner scales and everything else). your measurements will be wrong. as all the measuremnets are calculated off the COG
and for our high powered 1.3's
i like more Anti squat in the rear then wat layto has said
layto wat is link recession?
just extend them way cheaper then a RE joint
who cares if they are rebuildible
(you hear of many people rebuilding there link ends??)
the 4 link calculator is a crock of shit
unless u have the equipment to find your center of gravity (corner scales and everything else). your measurements will be wrong. as all the measuremnets are calculated off the COG
and for our high powered 1.3's
i like more Anti squat in the rear then wat layto has said
layto wat is link recession?
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
t
cheers tim,
id like to get u involved on the build, once Hypos buggy is done and out of is shed
id like to get u involved on the build, once Hypos buggy is done and out of is shed
Zooks are for people that aren't afraid of angles and who have nothing to compensate for
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God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Basically when the angle of your front links forces your front suspension to unload when pushed up against a rock/ledge etc.redzook wrote:greg just get a set of gq links dosent matter if they are shagged
just extend them way cheaper then a RE joint
who cares if they are rebuildible
(you hear of many people rebuilding there link ends??)
the 4 link calculator is a crock of shit
unless u have the equipment to find your center of gravity (corner scales and everything else). your measurements will be wrong. as all the measuremnets are calculated off the COG
and for our high powered 1.3's
i like more Anti squat in the rear then wat layto has said
layto wat is link recession?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ion&page=2
I agree the 4 link calculator is useless to find out the exact settings, but it can be handy if you are playing round to figure out how a change in location/length etc of links will change the dynamics of the suspension, especially. It might not give an acurate result, but if you have to change something you can at least get an idea if it will increase/decrease AS or whatever if they are having trouble visualising it. It just wont give you accurate results.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
good luck with itWho is online
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