optimum headlight wiring

[shakes]

what the optimum way to wire headlights and spotty's.

and wire size and everything a plumber that doesnt understand wiring in the slightest should know....be nice in how you explain it cause I really am a gimp when it comes to those little plastic and copper things

Cheer's

Simon

[-Scott-]

For somebody who "doesn't understand wiring in the slightest" I'd recommend buying a kit. A good kit should contain all the quality components you need, plus some decent instructions - they may appear to be expensive, but I think you'll struggle to do it much cheaper buying all the bits at retail. Something like a Traxide kit - search this forum for "Traxide" and do some reading.

If you're hell-bent on DIY, I'd start by choosing relays. These determine the types of connectors you'll need (spade, ring etc.).
Then find suitable connectors, choosing the ones which take the largest possible wire size *. Then find a good, flexible (high strand count) wire to fit the connectors - the bigger the better. I would advise against any household mains wiring - that's a personal thing.
You'll need some fuses too - so find some suitable fuse holders, which can be easier said than done.

Other factors: do you intend to crimp or solder? Being a plumber I guess you can solder which tends to be more reliable - but buy proper electrical solder!

* Realistically, 12gauge wire (12 B&S, 12 AWG) is probably adequate - I'm not sure what that translates to in "mm" ratings, but not all "mm" sizes are equal. Some refer to core diameter, some refer to core area and others (typically "automotive cable") refers to insulation diameter.

Other than that, try to position relays and fuse holders to minimise the length of your high current paths - this minimises voltage drop. Keep cables away from high temperatures (don't let them drop onto your exhaust manifold. )
Secure cables well - don't be stingy with the cable ties. You don't want your cables to rub and short.

That's all I can think of for now. Hopefully you'll get some better advice from somebody who's done this recently.

Good luck,

Scott

[drivesafe]

Thanks for the plug Scott.

Hi shakes, below is a diagram of a headlight wiring upgrade and if you want to source all the parts yourself for your own use, your more than welcome to print out the diagram.

If you have very little auto electrical experience then as Scott recommended, you might find it easier to try my headlight wiring upgrade kit.

The kits have everything you need to do a complete headlight wiring upgrade. All the wiring is colour coded and the instructions use these colour to step you through the whole installation.

All you need is some basic tool, you don’t even need a multi meter to sort out your own vehicle's high and low beam wiring, the kit does that automatically for you and as above, the kit has all the hardware you need, right down to a roll of electrical tape.

Have a look at my web site because the are two kits available, one just for upgrading your headlight wiring and a bigger kit to upgrade a set of driving lights as well.

My web site has prices on it and if you want a kit, don’t forget to let me know your a member of this forum because I give Outer Limits members a discount.

This link will take you to the headlight kits on my web site

http://www.traxide.com.au/HL_kits.html


By the way, this is an old diagram and I would recommend you use 6mm auto wire between the fuses, NOT 5mm.

PLEASE NOTE, all cable sizes are mm Auto and not mm2

[-Scott-]

OK, looking at drivesafe's diagram, I've changed my testimony.

Using the diagram, I wouldn't advice 12ga for the wiring between the battery and the relays - I think something larger would be better.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure how 12ga translates to the mm sizing in the diagram.

[drivesafe]

OK, looking at drivesafe's diagram, I've changed my testimony.

Using the diagram, I wouldn't advice 12ga for the wiring between the battery and the relays - I think something larger would be better.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure how 12ga translates to the mm sizing in the diagram.

Hi Scott, 12G would be fine, it's somewhere between 5mm Auto and 6mm Auto

[shakes]

I'm hell bent on 90% DIY cause I'm a tightass and also cause I like to know how things work.

Those kit's look damn good.thanks for the link, and ya advice, exactly what I needed, I did understand it all a little (about as clear as mud) but that diagram and ya info made it crystal.

Thanks.

Simon

[shakes]

something I forgot to ask was on the H4 style plug's like you've shown which one is hi-lo and earth? (yes I'm being lazy!)

thanks

[-Scott-]

something I forgot to ask was on the H4 style plug's like you've shown which one is hi-lo and earth? (yes I'm being lazy!)

thanks

Using the term "earth" can be misleading, because a negative switching system doesn't use a permanent earth - you need to think of Hi-Lo-Common. drivesafe's diagram shows a positive switched system with a common earth.

High beam is across the two outside connections, low-beam is the middle - but which one is common I don't know. That's what multimeters are for.

[drivesafe]

Hi Scott and shakes, if you follow my diagram exactly as shown, you don’t have to pre determine whether your vehicle has negative or positive switched headlights, the wiring does that automatically.

Next, the ORIGINAL HEADLIGHT PLUG is viewed from the terminal side, NOT the wire side and the grey wire is common, the blue is low and the green is high.

The headlights only become positive switched after the relays are in stalled and there is no alterations needed to be done to the existing vehicle wiring for this system to work.

Cheers.

[shakes]

Hi Scott and shakes, if you follow my diagram exactly as shown, you don’t have to pre determine whether your vehicle has negative or positive switched headlights, the wiring does that automatically.

Next, the ORIGINAL HEADLIGHT PLUG is viewed from the terminal side, NOT the wire side and the grey wire is common, the blue is low and the green is high.

The headlights only become positive switched after the relays are in stalled and there is no alterations needed to be done to the existing vehicle wiring for this system to work.

Cheers.

thanks heaps for ya advice this far!

I'm starting from a clean slate (ie no wiring) so how do I suss out negative or positively switched headlights ?

I'm also going to be putting the relay's and fuses under the dash, is your kit universal in this sense?

one more, how come the kit for the defender is an extra $20 whats the difference?

[drivesafe]

Hi shakes, my kit is designed to be fitted up front, as close to the battery and headlights as possible and I strongly recommend you do the same.

The shorter the wire run from the battery to the headlights, the brighter the headlights will be.

Just a suggestion but if you run the wiring from the battery to up under your dash and then back out to the headlights, your lights are not going to be any brighter than they are now.

Cheers.

[shakes]

how waterproof are your relay's and fuses blocks then?

[drivesafe]

how waterproof are your relay's and fuses blocks then?

The gear in my kits are standard automotive parts and as such will tolerate anything that occurs under your bonnet and to date, with quite a large number of the kits already installed in all forms of 4x4s and used in every conceivable means, not one has failed due to river crossings or the likes.

I’ve only had one relay fail and this was due to a manufacturing fault, not through use.

Cheers.

[TheOtherLeft]

how waterproof are your relay's and fuses blocks then?

The gear in my kits are standard automotive parts and as such will tolerate anything that occurs under your bonnet and to date, with quite a large number of the kits already installed in all forms of 4x4s and used in every conceivable means, not one has failed due to river crossings or the likes.

I’ve only had one relay fail and this was due to a manufacturing fault, not through use.

Cheers.

Having a look at your Traxide website, you use the new type of combined relay and fuse holder. With mounting the relay in the engine bay does the fuse get filled with mud/dirt? Considering everything in my engine bay is covered in mud/dirt I wouldn't want the fuses failing to contact due to dirt.

Is there a splashproof cover you can buy for the new types of relay?

[Corgie Carrier]

I have a 95 troopy and use the twin 30amp fused relay for my headlights and 100/130 globes.

The relay is located between the battery and the left headlight, so any mud/dirt that comes through around the headlight goes straight to the relay and it has been there for 12 years and I have not had to touch it.

Relays are really reliable.

Just whack em in and you won't have to touch em again.

[TheOtherLeft]

The relays themselves aren't my issue. It's the fact that the fuse contacts are exposed to the elements as I'm used to using seperate fuse holders that have a cover over them protecting them from water.

[Corgie Carrier]

The relays themselves aren't my issue. It's the fact that the fuse contacts are exposed to the elements as I'm used to using seperate fuse holders that have a cover over them protecting them from water.

My relays have the fuse sitting upright at the front of the relay, exposed to all the dust, mud and crap.

How do I post pics on here?

[ausoops]

dirt won't affect a fuse ability to limit fault current, the contact face may get dirty when you withdraw/insert the fuse but the spring pressure of the contacts should push any dirt clear as you re-insert the fuse.

[bazzle]

Go to DSE or Jaycar and buy a small rect box.
Run the wire in thru a grommet(s).
Or go to an Sarkies supplier and get a waterproof sw box, they have an O ring and screw in grommets.

Bazzle