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Lift Kit Help???
Moderator: Tiny
Lift Kit Help???
Hey everybody!
I'm a bit stuck and i need some advice,
I was wondering if a 45mm suspension lift for a 1994 Feroza SXII would
clear 31x10.5x15 tyres, would running these tyres be putting a lot of pressure on my standerd cluch?
Thanks,
7017
I'm a bit stuck and i need some advice,
I was wondering if a 45mm suspension lift for a 1994 Feroza SXII would
clear 31x10.5x15 tyres, would running these tyres be putting a lot of pressure on my standerd cluch?
Thanks,
7017
Just to clarify, a body lift does not include changing springs, shock absorbers or torsion bars.chatto wrote:I think it was about 1200.with rear springs, shocks, lift block,s, bushe,s, heavey duty tortion bars.plus extra 100.00 to lift front & back bumper,s took a couple hours to half day. I just left the truck there for the day.
It merely includes blocks to space the chassis from the body.
There is heaps of info floating around here on body lifts though.
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
i have recently done a BL on a f310 and it was reasonably easy.
cost me about $200 in total maybe and did the trick!
basically i got some spacers made at a plastics place and then got some grade 8.8 HT bolts. you need 8 and i recomend getting 150mm long, 10mm diameter and wat ever tread pitch you like. You CAN try and get 1.25mm thread and use the nuts that are welded to the car but i had some many problems finding a bolt that was longer than 75mm in that tread that i just drilled out the nuts and went right over the tope of em.
to start with you need to lower all the things in your engine bay that connect to both the body and the chassis and/or engine. i just used some zinc coated steel plate and dropped things like the fuel filter, charcoal cannister, vaccume lines etc...... This is all preliminary work.
also i recomend finding all the existing bolts and spraying them up wiht inox so the next day is a little easier.
the rest is pretty simple and you can find an OK article on warfs or as was said there is plenty of stuff on the site about it.
ONCE IT IS DONE BE SURE TO DROP THE RADIATOR AND TIGHTEN THE STEERING COLUMN BACK UP. I almost for this and would have destroyed my lower fan shrowd and dunno wat the steering would have been like.
also just make sure you check all lines etc as you go to make sure nothing is stretching! i didnt have a problem with my fuel filler wiht a 50mm lift but check it to make sure.....
last but not least dont forget to tighten all the bolts up once you have driven it around a little and keep checking them!!!
cost me about $200 in total maybe and did the trick!
basically i got some spacers made at a plastics place and then got some grade 8.8 HT bolts. you need 8 and i recomend getting 150mm long, 10mm diameter and wat ever tread pitch you like. You CAN try and get 1.25mm thread and use the nuts that are welded to the car but i had some many problems finding a bolt that was longer than 75mm in that tread that i just drilled out the nuts and went right over the tope of em.
to start with you need to lower all the things in your engine bay that connect to both the body and the chassis and/or engine. i just used some zinc coated steel plate and dropped things like the fuel filter, charcoal cannister, vaccume lines etc...... This is all preliminary work.
also i recomend finding all the existing bolts and spraying them up wiht inox so the next day is a little easier.
the rest is pretty simple and you can find an OK article on warfs or as was said there is plenty of stuff on the site about it.
ONCE IT IS DONE BE SURE TO DROP THE RADIATOR AND TIGHTEN THE STEERING COLUMN BACK UP. I almost for this and would have destroyed my lower fan shrowd and dunno wat the steering would have been like.
also just make sure you check all lines etc as you go to make sure nothing is stretching! i didnt have a problem with my fuel filler wiht a 50mm lift but check it to make sure.....
last but not least dont forget to tighten all the bolts up once you have driven it around a little and keep checking them!!!
80 Series 4.2TD:
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
4" Lift on 35's, F+R Air Lockers, F+R Barwork, Sliders, Warn Hi-Mount
would love to do a body lift on mine ... will have to wait a while though because even though the body lift will cost less than $200 the Warrent of Fitness certification for a modified 4x4 will cost $400, since you need certification for dam near any modifications these days im holding off doing a body lift as I dont require one to clear the current tyres
_________________
1988 LWB ,IFS, LSD, POS, PAJ, 31" M/T's on bling rims, Snorkel, 2" Lift ,new shocks ,XD9000 winch
1988 LWB ,IFS, LSD, POS, PAJ, 31" M/T's on bling rims, Snorkel, 2" Lift ,new shocks ,XD9000 winch
I bought a plastic, friend drilled it for 15 euros (aprox 22 USD) and i put a 2" body kit to my feroza. I bought trailmasters liftkit (6cm) for feroza (100 euro (aprox 145USD)), and i wound torsion bars. Now i have on my feroza 30X9,5X15 BFG MT and still 10cm space between tyre and mudguard.
I do not need sex, the government fucks me every day!
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