Bent axle housing

Post by **ZookNC** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:52 pm

Hi everyone,

I've just noticed my rear axle housing was bent (the top of the rear tyres face inwards) and I'd need some advice on how to unbend it. I intend to remove the diff, axles and everything but I have no idea on how to do it properly.

Has this happened to anyone before and how did you go about fixing it, apart from changing the whole thing?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Cheers,

Post by **bazooked** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:03 pm

i used to straighten diffs for a living here in perth, but i dont no if any 1 specializes in that over ur part of the world.

Post by **ZookNC** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:16 pm

How it actually done? What did you use? I've got access to a few tools, just need an idea on how to do it

Thanks!

Post by **christover1** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:03 pm

The axle tubes often rust and become weak at the u bolt mount point.
I had a bent one, repair was done, but didn't last long.
2nd solution was another housing, but strengthened at that point.
Mines 1.0 nt so this could be different.

Have no idea on straightening, but do know that could weaken it more, if done wrong.

some people weld in new tubes of thicker tube

christover

Post by **Goatse.AJ** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:48 pm

Might be ultimately cheaper and easier to get a 2nd hand and do a swap.

Post by **ZookNC** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:01 pm

Thanks for all that. Rusting around the U bolts is not an issue since it's a coily model and getting a second hand one near impossible as Suzuki parts never last long at the wreckers here. A lot of people actually buy parts as soon as they are available even if they don't need them.

This said, the axle is not out by much, maybe a couple of degrees (around half an inch at the top of the tyres as far as I can see), which is why I would've wanted to unbend it and then strengthen it big time.
Also, I'm planning to buy an Airlocker during a trip to Australia early next year and I don't want to risk putting that in if the axle isn't straight.

Post by **want33s** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:01 pm

AJFeroza wrote:Might be ultimately cheaper and easier to get a 2nd hand and do a swap.

X2... much easier to just replace I'd say... by the time you strip it bare and clean the oil out and then press it straight and reinforce it and repair cracked welds.

Post by **nicbeer** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:54 pm

my mate did a bent diff repair with using a 10 tonne bottle jack and chains. basically use jack in middle and chains either onto ends or through it and then jack up to un bend.

Post by **ZookNC** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:01 pm

Thanks Nicbeer, great idea, will try that on the weekend.
Then I'll strengthen the lot with 8mm plate steel that I'll weld above and under the diff.
Might also take the opportunity of having the axle off the car and apart to see about changing the whole suspension setup...

Cheers,

Post by **want33s** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:15 pm

ZookNC wrote:Thanks Nicbeer, great idea, will try that on the weekend.
Then I'll strengthen the lot with 8mm plate steel that I'll weld above and under the diff.
Might also take the opportunity of having the axle off the car and apart to see about changing the whole suspension setup...

Cheers,

8mm plate

You'll probably put so much heat into the housing welding it that it will end up PERMANENTLY bent.

Post by **nicbeer** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:15 am

this is another mates way of doing it in vehicle. it worked + he welded steel to strengthen it afterwards

Post by **ZookNC** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:57 am

Nic, thank you for the photo. I forgot to mention I also have oil seeping around the panhard rod bracket area which I've rewelded twice already so I'm thinking the bend might be there as well, but that's another story. I'll know once I've removed the axles, which I will do today.

Either way, the bottle jack and chains as pictured is the best idea I've seen so far, thanks for posting it up !

I'll let everyone know how I go.

Cheers,

Post by **PAZZ** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:26 pm

i had a mate that used chain an jack on a coily to straighten it, but they just bend again, u can use some rhs an cut an grind into shape of top off diff an weld on, it is normaly the long side of diff that bends, also check your trail arm mounts on diff i ripped mine clean off!

Post by **ZookNC** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:01 pm

Pazz, thanks for the advice. I'd planned on welding a length of 8mm plate steel at right angles with the diff on the top side as you suggest once it's straightened but RHS might be a better proposition. I also intend to change the suspension setup to 4 link in the future so I'll be using this for the top link as well.

As for the radius arm brackets, I've already torn one so they've been strengthened already but thanks for the info.

Planning to fit 31's in the future too so I need a strong enough diff for the side loads it will be copping.

This said, I never thought I'd get so many answers in such a short period of time so thank you again to everyone who has replied!

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:50 pm

8 mm will be nightmare to work with. 3mm would be heaps. Have a look at some of the trusses on Pirate 4X4- they mostly use 2-3mm sheet and use box sections, dimple dies etc to build the strength.

Be VERY CAREFUL with heat and technique - I have bent a housing by welding a truss on it. Odds are, you'll need to straighten it after you have finished welding onto it.

Steve.

Post by **ZookNC** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:05 am

Thanks Steve,

My idea with the 8mm plate was to use a strip that I would grind to the shape of the housing and weld it on its edge. I was also planning to chain down the housing somehow before welding so it doesn't bend or warp.

What do you think ?

Thanks,

Post by **mistaboz** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:43 am

Regardless of wether or not you chain down the housing if enough heat is involved it will still bend once you take the chain off.

Cheers Paul

Post by **ZookNC** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:14 am

Well, as far as technique goes, I'm planning to use an inverter-type stick welder with 2.5mm rod, so I would've thought heat wouldn't have been so bad. On top of which I intend to weld it bit by bit and let everything cool right down between welds.

What do you guys think ?

Post by **PAZZ** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:27 pm

maybe get it tig welded, uses little heat....

my brother had his diff done ill see if he has a picture anywhere.

Pazz

Post by **ZookNC** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:34 pm

That would be great ! Thanks Pazz, much appreciated.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 7:05 pm

ZookNC wrote:Well, as far as technique goes, I'm planning to use an inverter-type stick welder with 2.5mm rod, so I would've thought heat wouldn't have been so bad. On top of which I intend to weld it bit by bit and let everything cool right down between welds.

What do you guys think ?

It will bend. you will be much better to use some much thinner material and make it into a box section. The amount of heat required to ensure fusion into 8mm plate will cause significant distortion, and excess heat is always going to be a problem with stick.

I'm going to be trussing my diffs in the new ywar and I'm planning to use about 2mm sheet. The strength comes from triangulation and multiple planes, not from weight of material.

I agree, TIG would be the way to go, but failing that, mig and "tack-tack tack" welding, whilst not good practice, will limit heat input and shoudl restrict distortion. Be prepared to have to straighten it in any case after welding though.

Steve.

Post by **ZookNC** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:54 pm

Thanks Steve, I think I'll follow your advice and buy a length of RHS which I can get in 2 or 3mm here if I'm not mistaken.

I'll probably end up spot welding the truss at first and then welding short strips in between the spots going from one side of the housing to the other and back.

I'll probably be doing all this mid January as I'll be in Sydney for a couple of weeks around New Year's Eve and I'll definitely be bringing back a heap of goodies for the Zook!

Cheers,

Post by **ZookNC** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:57 pm

By the way, what would you recommend as the best method to check the straightness of the housing ? I suppose just looking at it isn't enough !

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:03 pm

good quality bubble levels on each backing plate flange would by the way I'd do it.

Steve.

Post by **ZookNC** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:05 pm

Yep, got one of them, will do it that way.

Thanks mate.

Post by **Farmz** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:18 am

I also have a coily model. One of the tabs on the rear axle where the trailing arm bolts into, was broken off, and had taken piece of the axle housing with it. Welded back on with a TIG welder and haven't had any problems with it breaking, leaking, or bending.

NB. my axle housing was not bent

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