Another trip, another problem

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:25 pm

So my brakes are screwed but that seems to be the norm for me in recent months.

Latest problem. I went to stockton and my car was fine the whole way there... hit the dunes and she started to overhead which was just fantastic!

but then it was getting hot on the freeway on the way home too... If i kept it at 100 constantly she'd heat up and up every long uphill it would heat up pretty quick.

Anyone had issues like this in the TD rocky's? Ways to fix/combat the problem?

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:36 pm

How hot did it get on the tunes? Didn't boil her did you?

I had this problem a few years ago with my NA. Took it for a good solid run on the sand, very hot day, very crap radiator. Got very close to boiling, little too close I guess cause later you could see little puffs of smoke choofing out the front of the head. Could only see it when you poured water over it from the steam. Then on the drive home it kept 3/4 + all the way

Rear brakes in particular are crap on rocky's. Need to adjust them regularily and clean them soon after you go through mud.

Post by **tabrocky** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:16 pm

Had heaps of problems with thermostats before.
Doing all sorts of crazy things. All aftermarket brands that I've tried are crap. Factory thermostat to suit NA DL motor i've found to also be pretty unpredictable.
Best one I've found so far is the one to suit the factory TDI DL motor. I us it in both my NA rocky and my Turbo one. Keeps a nice constant temperature. Other ones had a habit of going up and down sometimes even in cold weather.

Assuming your radiator and hoses are all in good nick and your not losing water, I'd check for bubbles in the radiator at cold with the engine running or any oily residue in the water indicating a crook head or gasket... Just the usual checks.

If thats all good, try flushing the system and replacing the thermostat.
If you want the proper Daihatsu part number let me know.

Other part to check is the fan viscous hub. At cold it should feel resonably resistive to turn. When you first start up at cold and fast idel at 1000 - 1500 rpm, the fan should run hard for the first 30 seconds or so then it should free wheel.

Good luck.

Cheers.

Post by **Buggerific** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:22 pm

I had a good few solid hits at a big dune then was driving a little bit and looked down and the temp was way up so we stopped and tried to cool her down. Heater on full ball etc.

Didn't boil i don't think. Got it before any steam was coming out or anything like that.

Um, the hoses are all good with no leaks anywhere, have recently flushed the system but I think I've got pretty ordinary coolant in there so I'll get some decent stuff when I flush it.

Was planning to replace the thermostat to see how that goes. What's the one you say is good? Like where to get it and all that jazz... Sounded like you were saying thats not a daihatsu genuine one so I wouldn't know where to get it.

She struggled a bit on some of the sand but also I was trying not to stress it too much because it was overheating. I only got stuck once so thats not too bad really but sadly we didn't stay out there too long.

I know the sump gasket needs to be done asap but my guess is that wouldn't cause any heat issues?

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:12 am

When you say you already flushed the system, to what extent? Pulled the bung on the bottom of the radiator, and ran a hose through the top? Sometimes not enough. There is an engine block drain, passenger side, rear of block, under the #4 exhaust port. It may just be a tap, or it may be coolant hose to turbo, or oil cooler, pull this fitting from the block, as well as the thermo housing, and flush the block both ways. Make sure there is no crap behind that lower fitting in the water gallery.

If it still runs hot, you may need to pull the top tank off the radiator, and ream the cores.

Post by **tabrocky** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:29 am

Thermostat is Daihatsu original but suits the later TDI motor. However I run the same thermostat in my N/A rocky also.

The factory specified original thermostat to suit the N/A motor I have had problems with and so I no longer use them.

The Daihatsu part number is: 90048-33058-000
You will need to find a Toyota service centre that also deals in Daihatsu spare parts to get it for you as Daihatsu is no longer in Oz.

Bought one in the middle of the year. From memory it was about $40.

Cheers

Post by **Buggerific** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:48 pm

Yeah I very quickly sussed out where to get Dai parts after I bought her.

Um, from memory i flushed it quite thoroughly but yes, thats a good idea and seeing as I will be flushing it anyway for replacement I might as well make sure its all flushed properly.

If there was an issue with the cores would the radiator fail a pressure test?

Post by **Buggerific** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 9:35 pm

So I've been thinking about chucking on a bonnet scoop on the F75 Rocky as an escape route for heat when driving on sand and such... Just as an added little extra. Also it would look hot!

Unsure how much of an advantage it would be.

But also I'm wondering how much of an issue this would be in terms of rain and mud.

Suggestions?

Post by **HotFourOk** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 10:21 pm

4RunnerBoy wrote:So I've been thinking about chucking on a bonnet scoop on the F75 Rocky as an escape route for heat when driving on sand and such... Just as an added little extra. Also it would look hot!

Unsure how much of an advantage it would be.

But also I'm wondering how much of an issue this would be in terms of rain and mud.

Suggestions?

The scoop has a potential to increase temperatures, as it can disrupt the pressure difference created on either side of the radiator, and actually can allow less airflow through the core. In saying this, it can also help with underbonnet temps, but its trial and error most of the time.
Don't skimp out, get it sorted right the first time mate.

Post by **HotFourOk** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 10:22 pm

4RunnerBoy wrote:Yeah I very quickly sussed out where to get Dai parts after I bought her.

Um, from memory i flushed it quite thoroughly but yes, thats a good idea and seeing as I will be flushing it anyway for replacement I might as well make sure its all flushed properly.

If there was an issue with the cores would the radiator fail a pressure test?

It would fail a flowrate test, but not a pressure test, as it's not losing any pressure.
The pressure tests show up only leaks.

Post by **Buggerific** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:05 pm

So basically you're saying don't bother chucking a scoop on there?

It wasnt going to be instead of fixing whatever the problem was... Rather an extra thing but I wasnt sure of any downsides or problems with doing it...

Just another idea that popped into my head so I thought I'd ask it. Was more for the idea of driving on the hot sand for heat to have an escape route though the top...

Post by **RockyF75** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:14 pm

You need speed holes in your bonnet. Thats your problem. Time to get the pick axe out.

Or you could get a new radiator if your is a bit manky? Did wonders for mine. And for the record I've never had problems with my new genuine NA Thermostat

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:08 pm

The radiator looks fine to me... I try to clean it as well when I do the rest of the car.

Yes, speed holes are where it's at. I currently have some speed dents but don't we all?

Incidentally... What is NA? I realise it's non turbo but I don't know what it actually stands for?

Post by **dai-hard** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:14 pm

N/A=normally asperated. think thats how u spell it

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:31 pm

dai-hard wrote:N/A=normally asperated. think thats how u spell it

Naturally Aspirated*

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:37 pm

Cool, i thought it was something like that!

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:51 pm

Is that your gearbox and transfer on ebay?

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:59 pm

Yeap

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:59 pm

What rocky are you running? You said yours doesnt have the vaccum?

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:02 pm

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:06 pm

But it's still an F75 is it? I don't like the push button vaccum one... seems like it could have more problems easier! Course it's what mine has though

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:07 pm

4Runner boy, plain water is actually more efficient as coolant than glycol, so if you have a very diluted mix, you're probably better off from a cooling point of view than with nice rich mix.

I would look carefully at the viscous fan. It sounds like the fan isn't coming in when required. some fans (toyota) can be pulled apart and have the fluid replaced (It's available from toyota) otherwise you can drill and tap the hub to re fill it.

There's no other obvious cause for a big change in cooling performance. I agree with the other coments - don't go hacking holes in the bonnet etc - fix the initial problem.

Steve.

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:14 pm

4RunnerBoy wrote:But it's still an F75 is it? I don't like the push button vaccum one... seems like it could have more problems easier! Course it's what mine has though

Yeah still F75. Just an earlier model. Think they put the vacuum crap in 86/87 onwards.

Have you got in cab adjustable shocks in yours?

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:33 pm

Ha ha,

Yeah I do, however the guy before me cut the wires and put new shocks on when he did the lift...

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:36 pm

Again, yes i do want to fix the actual problem...

BUT my question was would the be an advantage (mainly on the sand) to have somewhere for the heat to get out... Wouldn't be as much for on road as you're driving at speeds but on the sand you tend to be going slower so the heat sits under the bonnet and you're not getting as much cool air through the radiator.

So in my mind it would be an advantage on the sand but I'm unsure about relative consequences on road and through mud.

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:42 pm

Youv'e got a spare bonnet haven't you? Get chopping on that and see how it goes

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:00 pm

Good call, I might just get onto that...

Or rather add it to the long list.

Incidentally my brakes were good today

The pedal has been spongy all week and today it had good pressure... Gotta love cars

Post by **Buggerific** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:23 pm

also, as for the water/coolant comment...

Isn't the idea of using coolant because it has a higher boil temp? Or was it just a lower freeze temp?

I think i normally run about 50/50 but it becomes watered down if I have to add water I just use plain water.

And I don't really follow what you mean about the fan... What fan has fluid in it?

Post by **RockyF75** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:39 pm

Coolant has a higher boiling point yes but it also cools down slower than straight water.

Post by **Buggerific** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:21 pm

Righto, well I'll take that into account when I refill the system again during my repairs!

Anyone got more info on that fan? Were you talking about the main fan or that little one in front of the radiator?

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Another trip, another problem

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