Would the cam shaft pulley from a 1.6L have a different amount of teeth than a 1.3L?
I am having difficulty aligning the Tbelt without keeping the crank pulley from turning...I have been aligning the marks as the manual says, counting the teeth on the belt between marks. But when I try to slide tensioner in place, the crank pulley turns a little, enough for the marks to be off a half a tooth.
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1.3L block, 1.6L head combo question about cam pulley..
Moderator: Tiny
No the cam sprockets on a 1.3 and 1.6 ( HC & HD engines ) are exactly the same. Have built both engines and have lots of them. 
You do know the 1.3 & 1.6 timing belts are different ? I.3 has 2 less teeth IIRC. In the early days wasted some time trying to fit a HC belt to an HD - just couldnt get it on and lost my cool over it - it was only after I had slammed a few doors and kicked the tyres that the penny dropped - felt like a real idiot.
The way of aligning the top sprocket is not that wonderful IMO, the point your after is actually the EDGE between the tooth and valley over the "F" mark.
There's actually another dot stamped into the sprocket that aligns with the upper edge of the cylinder head ( 90 deg clockwise from the F ), its more accurate mechanically but almost impossible to do in the car.
I usually use the Feroza jack handle to push the tensioner all the way back.
A socket on the crank allows you to have the bottom sprocket a bit retarded to get the belt on easily and then turn it to take up the tension on the driven side ( non idler ) and then check.
Unfortunately I've done this lots when I was playing with camshafts, with a cam indexer now on the top sprocket its now just so easy
With the sump guard off and a torch you can see th bottom timing mark and pointer reasonably easily.
You do know the 1.3 & 1.6 timing belts are different ? I.3 has 2 less teeth IIRC. In the early days wasted some time trying to fit a HC belt to an HD - just couldnt get it on and lost my cool over it - it was only after I had slammed a few doors and kicked the tyres that the penny dropped - felt like a real idiot.
The way of aligning the top sprocket is not that wonderful IMO, the point your after is actually the EDGE between the tooth and valley over the "F" mark.
There's actually another dot stamped into the sprocket that aligns with the upper edge of the cylinder head ( 90 deg clockwise from the F ), its more accurate mechanically but almost impossible to do in the car.
I usually use the Feroza jack handle to push the tensioner all the way back.
A socket on the crank allows you to have the bottom sprocket a bit retarded to get the belt on easily and then turn it to take up the tension on the driven side ( non idler ) and then check.
Unfortunately I've done this lots when I was playing with camshafts, with a cam indexer now on the top sprocket its now just so easy
With the sump guard off and a torch you can see th bottom timing mark and pointer reasonably easily.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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