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Gu TD Power Upgrades

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

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Gu TD Power Upgrades

Post by roverrat »

I know this topic has been done to death however in a nut shell I have just ordered a beaudesert 3" exhaust from QLD to be shipped to KAL '3" aluminized mild steel mandrel bent system which comes right off the back of the turbo'. What else do I need to do to get around 100 RwKW on 35's? And also the most important ? is how much?

What would I expect to pay to up boost and a dyno tune in round about figures??
We are put on this earth for one thing, and one thing only, to die. What you do in the mean time is entirely up to you!

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Post by Den81 »

Hi mate, my brothers patrol was tuned the other day, 04 ute, 3''dump and zaust, fuel, boost and timing done and it made 102kws at the wheels on standard tyres. Cost him $1800 all up. My gq is being fitted with a 12mm plunger at the moment, im hopeing for 100kw or better with 35s.

Cheers Den
89 st wagon, 4.2 turbo, top mount intercooler, 3'' zaust, factory locker, 2'' bodylift, 4''lift, superior drop box's, 35'' mtz, custom bullbar, premier winch
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Post by ats4x4dotcom »

retime pump, use a better dump pipe, and up boost to 12 psi and dyno tune, should see you get there without to much EGT.

machine the turbo, and it should get up to the 130's.
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Post by madrolla68 »

I would suggest you fit a modded turbo as well as upping boost and giving it more fuel.They DO NOT like more fuel,more boost on a STD turbine housing as they have enough trouble getting rid of what they make in STD trim.

Matt
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Post by bogged »

madrolla68 wrote:They DO NOT like more fuel,more boost on a STD turbine housing as they have enough trouble getting rid of what they make in STD trim.

Matt
Mine had no probs. 3in zaust with it and much happier.
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Post by roverrat »

So I assume dump pipe, 3" .... (insert question below)


question running mufflers or no mufflers???

up boost to 12-14 psi and dyno tuned will be enough to give me around 100RwKw's on 35"?? Am I to understand this is correct because I now run Cooper STT's 35" as my road tyres. 38" off road.

Hey bogged .... I have updated the rest of my truck now how the hell do I post up pics on this site now?
We are put on this earth for one thing, and one thing only, to die. What you do in the mean time is entirely up to you!

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Post by coilylux »

Speak to TOTAL CARE 4WD 029838 9779

they just did a GU ute with a bigger turbo and it pumps out heathly numbers!!!!
Tow rig
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=644&im=1]COILYLUX[/url]

Comp buggy
[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=1529&im=1]ROCTOY[/url]
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Post by bogged »

roverrat wrote:Hey bogged .... I have updated the rest of my truck now how the hell do I post up pics on this site now?
email em to me fu_kew@hotmail.com
or www.photobucket.com
create an account
upload the photos from your camera to computer to photobucket.
then use the code that it shows you to post images.
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Post by currentlyoffline »

I am running the same zorst, with a ceramic coated dump, 1 muffler, and getting 95kw at the tyres with the stock turbo.
Max boost comes up with 13.5psi on a vdo gauge and exhaust temps are determined by pressure of right foot as vdo pyrometer is fitted as well.
Pump has not been retimed from factory.
Usually only have to lift the foot on long hills with my camper on tow.
I generally lift the foot when gauge reads around 580 degrees C
(not very often)
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Post by ats4x4dotcom »

we make our own dump pipes, as the cast 21/4 " ones that are supposed to be 3" hurt power, and EGT's.

a fair gain to be made just in the dump pipe on a power upgrade.

We use a stright through 3" round muffler, to stop the droning inside the car, on the dyno no effect on power.
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Post by currentlyoffline »

ats4x4dotcom wrote:we make our own dump pipes, as the cast 21/4 " ones that are supposed to be 3" hurt power, and EGT's.
So have you tested the dump pipes as supplied by beaudesert against the ones you fabricate ?
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Post by roverrat »

yes good question ... can anyone vouch for the beaudesert dump pipes?
We are put on this earth for one thing, and one thing only, to die. What you do in the mean time is entirely up to you!

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Post by bogged »

roverrat wrote:yes good question ... can anyone vouch for the beaudesert dump pipes?
I got one.. no problems at all.. overnighted to me, and a real 3inch
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Post by Tommy »

Apparently, that with a bog stock 4.2TD, 3'' zorst and dump pipe and a gas conversion, it would get you those figures.

Ofcourse the inital outlay is a bit more expensive, but with the savings at the pump and economy, things would even out.

I read this in an add, can anyone verify this in 'real life'?
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Post by Dzltec »

Roverrat, to get 100rwkw on 35"s with no i/c involves a bit of heat. You may find egts get too hot too quick. We would set a td42t non i/c to about 85-95 rwkw. The i/c go from 90-100rwkw, it all depends on egts.

You are heading in the right path, exhaust, boost and fuel adjustments by someone who knows what they are doing.

To go futher involves an i/c, a turbo to shift more air and furthwer fuel adjustments if the pump is up to it.

Hope this helps.

Andy
www.diesel-tec.com.au Ph 03 9739 5031
Ball bearing turbo upgrades for factory turbo vehicles. Got a diesel question just ask.
Home of the twin turbo shorty and many 150rwkw+ patrols.
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Post by currentlyoffline »

roverrat wrote:yes good question ... can anyone vouch for the beaudesert dump pipes?
I can. I fitted the zorst, then andy set mine up last year, although to get the 95kw I am running a cooler.

I am still thinking about putting an aftermarket turbo on tho.....
and/or maybe an air/water cooler instead of the air/air

After logging 15,000 ks towing my camper I am averaging 20.5 litres per hundred km's, with the a/c on the whole time (N.T./W.A. in summer) and the camper in tow nearly all of the time.

I also set the cruise to 112km/h......
Only gets hot on hills. and in excess of 125km/h
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Post by madrolla68 »

currentlyoffline wrote:
roverrat wrote:yes good question ... can anyone vouch for the beaudesert dump pipes?
I can. I fitted the zorst, then andy set mine up last year, although to get the 95kw I am running a cooler.

I am still thinking about putting an aftermarket turbo on tho.....
and/or maybe an air/water cooler instead of the air/air

After logging 15,000 ks towing my camper I am averaging 20.5 litres per hundred km's, with the a/c on the whole time (N.T./W.A. in summer) and the camper in tow nearly all of the time.

I also set the cruise to 112km/h......
Only gets hot on hills. and in excess of 125km/h
Sounds to me like you need to fit a modified turbo to let some of the exhaust out and cool down the water and EGT's

Matt
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Post by roverrat »

righto lets assume a bigger turbo is the order of the day what brand / size will get the job done and around about what price new?

Is there any point getting a genuine intercooler of a GU patrol or go aftermarket?
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Post by madrolla68 »

You can go to the trouble and expense of getting a Ball Bearing garret with bigger compressor wheel and bigger turbine wheel but i think it would be a waste of money if you are only looking at around 100RwKw,if you were in WA i would suggest that we fit a modified turbo with larger turbine wheel,dyno tune for $1850 if you already have an exhaust and dump pipe.

Matt
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Post by roverrat »

pm sent
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Post by weeman »

madrolla68 wrote:You can go to the trouble and expense of getting a Ball Bearing garret with bigger compressor wheel and bigger turbine wheel but i think it would be a waste of money if you are only looking at around 100RwKw,if you were in WA i would suggest that we fit a modified turbo with larger turbine wheel,dyno tune for $1850 if you already have an exhaust and dump pipe.

Matt
well the genuine turbo's dont last that long once you modify the housing to accept larger impler wheel they generally shit themselves not long after as you will drive it harder........ for the cost of $1850 you can get a custom spec roller turbo and then all you need is just the lines......

anyhow even then then your limited to about 100 - 130 kw as you limited by the fuel delivery however they do drive much better without major pump modifications...
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Post by madrolla68 »

weeman wrote:
madrolla68 wrote:You can go to the trouble and expense of getting a Ball Bearing garret with bigger compressor wheel and bigger turbine wheel but i think it would be a waste of money if you are only looking at around 100RwKw,if you were in WA i would suggest that we fit a modified turbo with larger turbine wheel,dyno tune for $1850 if you already have an exhaust and dump pipe.

Matt
well the genuine turbo's dont last that long once you modify the housing to accept larger impler wheel they generally shit themselves not long after as you will drive it harder........ for the cost of $1850 you can get a custom spec roller turbo and then all you need is just the lines......

anyhow even then then your limited to about 100 - 130 kw as you limited by the fuel delivery however they do drive much better without major pump modifications...
Haven't seen this problem up to date with the slightly larger turbine wheels we fit,we fit modded turbos up to 4 a week here for the past 3 years and havent seen a failure due to bad engineering yet.

The mod is designed to enhance performance ,fuel economy ,reduce EGT's and cooling system temps and have the same service life of OEM.

Of course if you want to lean on them too hard they will fail,BUT we set them up for long life at around 120Kw and 360Nm depending on the age and condition of the engine.If the customer wants more thats fine but they are aware of the risks and are happy with that.

Matt
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