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Oil Pump
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:21 pm
by Nice_Surf
I have just fitted a oil pressure gauge to the beast and have found that the oil pressure is a little low as it's down to 28-30 psi at 2500rpm at opperating temp as it's ment to be 40psi min apparently.
Is it hard to rebuild/reco these as the rest of the motor seem okay (except for maybe the heads) or does any one on here have a good one for a 3.9efi engine number with out suffix B.
Trav
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:20 am
by bigbad
just take the cover off the pump and drop the gears out, replace the gears, check the cover for wear and pack it with vaseline to prime it, fit cover, job done. It could be the pressure relief spring that is causing the lower pressure, so may be worth replacing that first.
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:42 am
by Nice_Surf
Okay thanks for that I'll check it out
Trav
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:01 pm
by RangingRover
What oil are you running? I gained 10psi across the board from switching from Castrol FMX to Penrite HPR30, now sits shady side of 30psi at idle where it used to be around 20.
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:50 pm
by Nice_Surf
I'm using Penrite HPR15 which is SAE15-60 which is what's recomended.
Trav
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:51 pm
by Nice_Surf
bigbad wrote:just take the cover off the pump and drop the gears out, replace the gears, check the cover for wear and pack it with vaseline to prime it, fit cover, job done. It could be the pressure relief spring that is causing the lower pressure, so may be worth replacing that first.
Can you do that while it's still on the car ??
Trav
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:38 pm
by lokka
HPR 15 is way to light for it HPR 30 or HPR 50 is the go i use 50 in mine but its had a long hard life ...
As for the oil pump most good landy shops sell a reco kit for em with new gears and springs and gaskets i think the kit is around the 90 buck mark
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:43 pm
by Nice_Surf
lokka wrote:HPR 15 is way to light for it HPR 30 or HPR 50 is the go i use 50 in mine but its had a long hard life ...
As for the oil pump most good landy shops sell a reco kit for em with new gears and springs and gaskets i think the kit is around the 90 buck mark
I was told that the HPR 15 is whats recomended for it but I'll try some HPR 30 as some thicker oil might help as she has done about 290,000k's
Trav
Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:40 am
by Mark2
Rover V8's are know for running fairly low oil pressures. I wouldnt be overly concerned. A heavier oil will help.
When the oil light starts to flicker at idle once hot, I'd be thinking about an oil pump rebuild...........
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:32 pm
by Nice_Surf
Well I put some HPR40 (25w-70) in and the pressure only incresced to about 32-35psi so I'm going to do the pump but I have been told that the main and/or bigends are worn and they might need replacing as well as the motor has done nearly 300000k's.
To do the oil pump do I need to remove it from the motor or can I do the gears and releif spring while it's still on the car ??
Trav
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:52 pm
by bigbad
it worries me that you have to ask that, but yes you should be able to do it on the car.
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:33 pm
by Nice_Surf
bigbad wrote:it worries me that you have to ask that, but yes you should be able to do it on the car.
I'm only asking as I don't know that much about the Rangies yet but I am working on it
Trav
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:50 pm
by Dash007
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:37 am
by armbrup
Just a thought.
Why not try a mechanical gauge directly connected to the pressure switch mount, to check whether your gauge is reading correctly.
Most mechanics have them.
300K is lot though.
I bet you never worried before you bought that damn gauge.
Regards Philip A
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 12:07 pm
by bigbad
just removed a trans from my old 88 RR ,about 270,000ks, the end float on the crank is about 5mm, so wonder what the rest of the bearings are like. Still ran well though.
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 3:58 pm
by armbrup
If it was a manual, I had an 81 in saudi which had more than that. You could clunk it backwards and forwards.
However all the rest of the bearings were relatively OK. I put it down to pushing the clutch in.
However, the centre bearing has the thrust washers integral so I had to have the crank ground undersize. This was in Saudi, where noone knew anything. Maybe in NZ you could get oversize thrust washers separate from the bearing.
Regards Philip A
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:50 pm
by Nice_Surf
armbrup wrote:Just a thought.
Why not try a mechanical gauge directly connected to the pressure switch mount, to check whether your gauge is reading correctly.
Most mechanics have them.
300K is lot though.
I bet you never worried before you bought that damn gauge.
Regards Philip A
One of the reasons I bought the gauge was because the oil light was coming on and off all the time at no set intervils and yes it is a mechanical gauge and the pressure sits steady.
Trav
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:54 pm
by Nice_Surf
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:08 pm
by Dash007
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:18 pm
by armbrup
One of the reasons I bought the gauge was because the oil light was coming on and off all the time at no set intervils and yes it is a mechanical gauge and the pressure sits steady.
When mine died in Saudi, it was because the oil light was coming on up to about 1500RPM. I rebuilt the engine with all new bearings, and guess what , the oil light still came on.
A new sender fixed it. Maybe buy a new sender and see if it makes a difference to the light coming on.
I am suggesting that you borrow ANOTHER mechanics type gauge to check whether your gauge is correct. An engine would really have to be bad to not make pressure at 2500RPM with 70 in it. You should hear the big ends a clonkin.
Regards Philip A
Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:54 am
by Lucus
