Rebuilding G16B

[t_e_z_a]

I am currently building a G16B to go into my sierra and having problem after problem :(. bought the vitara from the wreckers, pulled the motor apart and found 2 big cracks going from mains right down the bores :(. As well as a spun/picked-up cam tunnel (i can fix this with weld and t/bore)

anyway i got a replacement block from the wreckers (all they had thought was g16a block) and unfortunalty it was already 1mm o/s bores (with wear). Just just had a few questions.

Anyone know if any engine component companies make 1.25 or 1.5mm o/s pistons?

i want to confirm the blocks are identical ... i notcied the g16b block had g16a stamped on the rear. I know the crank is not fully counter-balanced in the "A" block. Are the rods the same? Is there anything i will need to know if using the "A" block with "B" crank/rods/pistons.

Does anyone have a spare g16 block in brisbane/ipswich area i could by cheap? this wreckers seems to be getting anoyed and giving me so many engines

In everyones experience is the heavy crank and flywheel better for momentum with 4x4ing or is it better to lighten the flywheel and maybe knifedge the crank for better revs and responce? Does the std computer get any problems with lightening components or is just large cams they get confused by?

[Santos]

although i can't claim to have rebuilt a g16b i'm pretty sure your chances of finding larger than 1mm oversize pistons is zero. (unless you get them made)

What i can suggest if you do go for aftermarket pistons maybe consider 2mm oversize gti pistons (not gti-A CULTUS! )as they have a flat top instead of a dommed top which would up the compression slightly

I don't think knife edging is a good idea as i have read some pretty sound arguments against it, the simpliest one is that you messing with the cranks symetrical balance. What i do reckon is the go is to remove all the casting lines on the crank and forge lines on the rods (maybe a bit more if you go the 76mm pistons to offset the added weight)

The standard computer shouldn't go haywire, after all the fact that the engine picks through the fuel maps a little quicker isn't really going to outrun the chip ability to process the signals from the tps, tach, air meter etc etc

What i can tell you is observations i've made between g13a-g13ba blocks although all the components are interchangeble between blocks some ppl say that the g13a has thicker casting (haven't measured my bare sierra block against a swift block to confirm this)

The big internal diifferences (other than the crank) are not so much if the block is 'A' or 'BA' but which car it came from. swift motors have thin rods and sierras have thick rods, late model swifts have flat top pistons (so do coily sierras i've been told?) It makes sence that the 4wd motor is 'beefed' up while the swift motor is kept light and responsive (it doesn't have to work as hard in lighter bitumen only vehicle)

Why i bring this up is i am suggesting you aim to get a 'vitara' block instead of a baleno/swift block for your build. It may make a difference in the long run, and if doesn't well it doesn't matter

[t_e_z_a]

I was asking the difference between the 1.6L blocks not the g13a/ba did you mean to write that?

All the engines i have are out of vitaras . The cracked block was a g16b (efi), the 1mm oversized block is g16a(carb). Basic question i need to confirm is that the "A" and "B" blocks are the same.

Are the 2mm O/S pistons you talking about for the g16 motors? With flat tops wont the valves hit the pistons or are the cut-outs just to allow clearance incase of timing belt breakage?

[Santos]

1)2mm over gti pistons are 76mm so they are only 1mm over if used in g16, i threw it in as an idea as you where asking about knife edging and lightening parts (another power mod)

2) i wrote about the differences between the g13a/ba as it may very well be similar case with the g16

Why i bring this up is i am suggesting you aim to get a 'vitara' block instead of a baleno/swift block for your build. It may make a difference in the long run, and if doesn't well it doesn't matter

if the carby block is to worn too much to run 1mm over with fresh rings than look at another vit block ( A or B) not just look for a B block (which you could get in a swift or baleno)

[t_e_z_a]

ok I am following you thanks.