need ohms on a 24v fuel sending unit in a Patrol.
can anybody help?
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
fuel sending unit SD33
fuel sending unit SD33
www.rmp-o.com
OK, the book says, "fuel guage not working: replace sender unit, guage, check for open circuit or replace regulator built into temperature guage".
It also says the same for if the guage is stuck on full or not reading accurately.
It does not give a test procedure for any of it.
Looking at the wiring diagram the 61 series only has the fuel & temp guages going through the voltage regulator. For the 160 series (which I am assuming yours is if its the old green one I remember) the guage is hooked straight up to the sender with its own independant circuit. I would say ther is a resister built into the sender itself to remove oscillations in the fuel level & the guage remains constant.
In my MK the guage didnt work, I pulled it & the actual winding was visibly broken, also it was larger at the top & thinner at the bottom, which is how it controlled its resistance. Not sure what the 24V ones look like.
I dont have a scanner so I cannot send you a copy.
What sort of problems are you having RMP?
Are you trying to rebuild the unit or just diagnose it?
It also says the same for if the guage is stuck on full or not reading accurately.
It does not give a test procedure for any of it.
Looking at the wiring diagram the 61 series only has the fuel & temp guages going through the voltage regulator. For the 160 series (which I am assuming yours is if its the old green one I remember) the guage is hooked straight up to the sender with its own independant circuit. I would say ther is a resister built into the sender itself to remove oscillations in the fuel level & the guage remains constant.
In my MK the guage didnt work, I pulled it & the actual winding was visibly broken, also it was larger at the top & thinner at the bottom, which is how it controlled its resistance. Not sure what the 24V ones look like.
I dont have a scanner so I cannot send you a copy.
What sort of problems are you having RMP?
Are you trying to rebuild the unit or just diagnose it?
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
I just found the facelift supplement for 1983 and it shows for the fuel guage on the deisel version it went back to using a resistor in the cluster for the temp and fule guages. I wouldnt be surprised if they used that setup right through & the first diagram doesnt show it or only shows one version.
As manufacturers change things all the time mid model (or they did then, my shorty 40 had 11 different rear wheel cylinders for its model year & spec) I would expect to see either. You will just have to suss it out I guess.
If you need any more info dont hesitate to ask.
As manufacturers change things all the time mid model (or they did then, my shorty 40 had 11 different rear wheel cylinders for its model year & spec) I would expect to see either. You will just have to suss it out I guess.
If you need any more info dont hesitate to ask.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
RMP&O wrote:can't buy it in the USA which is where I am at. Plus this is for fitting to a custom aluminum fuel cell.mkpatrol wrote:You can still buy them from nissan, 150 aus when I had mine & that was not that long ago.
Just want ohms of stock 24v sending unit.
OK, now I am getting the picture. If you cannot get the ohms, can you check a few senders against the guage to see which one suits the most?
Alternatevely, there is a tool that checks resistence in guages, maybe one of those could be used to check your guage & then you will know that voltage range it needs & you may be able to calculate it from there.
I just thought of another thing, I have a genuine GQ manual, it has a check for the sender: Full - 4.3-5.7 ohms, Empty 74.3-84.8 ohms. This may help
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
fuel senders
Hey mkpatrol,
Do you know if the GU 4.2 diesel sender unit would be the same.
Cheers Heath
Do you know if the GU 4.2 diesel sender unit would be the same.
Cheers Heath
Johno,elmo72j wrote:Wouldn't be any different to the 12 volt sender as the 24 volt patrol guages are 12 volt anyway. That is why they come on when the accessories is switched on.
Johno.
Are you saying that the accesories on the 24volt model are all 12 volt. I am currently building up a 24 volt model and was trying to work out how to run stereos, uhfs etc but this may help my dilemna. Can you confirm this?
Brad
Brad,
The intrument panel is 12 volt the only guage that isnt is the volt guage. There should be a 12 volt feed that goes to where the sterio pod sits on the dash and there is a possibility that the cigarette lighter would be 12 volt although some say that theirs is 24 volt. A check with a multy meter would tell you. It shows the 12 volt feed and relay in the gregorys manual as a dotted line but keep in mind that this feeds off the drivers side battery and if feeding to much of it can cause a flat battery on that side. In saying this you would be able to get away with connecting to that battery but you will have to keep swapping the batteries around to keep them fully charged.
I am running a 24 and 12 volt alternator in my MQ at the moment. I have 2 EB Falcon batteries on the passengers side for the 24 volt and have retained the larger size on the drivers side just for 12 volt perposes feeding off a 12 volt alternator. Runs well and I get no flat batteries.
Johno.
The intrument panel is 12 volt the only guage that isnt is the volt guage. There should be a 12 volt feed that goes to where the sterio pod sits on the dash and there is a possibility that the cigarette lighter would be 12 volt although some say that theirs is 24 volt. A check with a multy meter would tell you. It shows the 12 volt feed and relay in the gregorys manual as a dotted line but keep in mind that this feeds off the drivers side battery and if feeding to much of it can cause a flat battery on that side. In saying this you would be able to get away with connecting to that battery but you will have to keep swapping the batteries around to keep them fully charged.
I am running a 24 and 12 volt alternator in my MQ at the moment. I have 2 EB Falcon batteries on the passengers side for the 24 volt and have retained the larger size on the drivers side just for 12 volt perposes feeding off a 12 volt alternator. Runs well and I get no flat batteries.
Johno.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests