Which oil after diesel engine rebuild?

[LuxyBoy]

Mechanic has recommended the following oil for at least the first 5000-8000 Kms. He said that the engine has to bed in before you can use a synthetic oil; or i could just keep using the j-max forever.
Castrol Tection J-MAX
Weight: 15W-40
API: CH-4
Viscosity Index: 138
Closed Flash Point: 205 Celsius
Sulfated Ash (wt%): 1.7

I was looking at the following oil as being the best oil around; any other opinions?
Mobil Delvac 1
Weight: 5W-40
API: CJ-4 (also known as CI-4 Plus)
Viscosity Index: 151
Closed Flash Point: 226 Celcius
Sulfated Ash (wt%): 1.35

I know it is expensive however after spending $6000 on a rebuild i don't want to put just anything in it.
Engine: 2.8l diesel with a DTS turbo kit running 7psi and no intercooler

[brad-chevlux]

i recomend TITAN ULTRALUBE SAE 15W-40
here's a link to the MSDS for it
http://www.msdsonline.com.au/fuchs/msds/MainMenu.asp

We use it in every engine we build, from a $3000 re-ring job,
to $15000plus race engines.
i'd also recomend crane cams break-in concentrate in the first 3 or so sump fulls of oil.


shell rimula X and rimula super also have the right aditives for proper protection during the break in period.

[zagan]

use a mineral oil so the rings will smooth down the cylinder walls.

using a synthetic oil reduces the wear so it'll take longer for the rings to bed in, if ever at all.

there's no real need to run synthetic oil in any motor, unless your after longer oil change over times.

[LuxyBoy]

use a mineral oil so the rings will smooth down the cylinder walls.

using a synthetic oil reduces the wear so it'll take longer for the rings to bed in, if ever at all.

there's no real need to run synthetic oil in any motor, unless your after longer oil change over times.

That is what the mechanic said; but after the first 5000-8000 Kms he said i can use a synthetic because the ring will have bedded in. I don't care about long service times as i would drop any oil at every 5000Kms however i think the synthetic is going to lubricate better and does break down as quickly because there are less VII additives.

shell rimula X and rimula super also have the right aditives for proper protection during the break in period.

Can't find anywhere that says ANY of the Shell products meet the JASO DHD-1 standard for Japanese engines. Most either meet Euro or Global DHD-1 which may mean they are low ash; Japs need high ash.
Correct me if i'm wrong.

[chunks]

If you are going to be changing the oil every 5k then your wasting your money on synthetic as it will go 10k +. I believe mineral oil is fine in older diesels, but i would stick to a good quality synthetic like Fuchs Titan GT1 in all the current model Hilux's etc.

[brad-chevlux]

shell rimula X and rimula super also have the right aditives for proper protection during the break in period.

Can't find anywhere that says ANY of the Shell products meet the JASO DHD-1 standard for Japanese engines. Most either meet Euro or Global DHD-1 which may mean they are low ash; Japs need high ash.
Correct me if i'm wrong.

i was only stating that the rimula range of oils still have the zinc EP aditives.
wich is the key aditive for the protection of things like camshafts and any high pressure gear drives in the engine.

most oils don't have this anymore due to emissions regs, and is the reason there have been thousands of failed camshafts, failed dizzy gears, more so in engine where the dizzy also drives the oil pump. (i realise you engine doesn't have a dizzy) but it still runs a flat tappet cam.

what the reason behind them needing high ash?

[LuxyBoy]

Still trying to figure that out.
It appears that the Jap diesels are dirtier and require better soot suspension properties; from what i can find.

You just about need a bloody chemistry degree to decifer all of this crap

[ShortyFortyTwo]

Don't have a knee jerk reaction to an engine failure. Indirect injection toyotas are murder on their oil. There is no need for synthetics your just wasting more money. Buy a resonable quality oil and make sure you change it every 5K. The most important thing is changing the oil every 5K.

[KiwiBacon]

Don't have a knee jerk reaction to an engine failure. Indirect injection toyotas are murder on their oil. There is no need for synthetics your just wasting more money. Buy a resonable quality oil and make sure you change it every 5K. The most important thing is changing the oil every 5K.

Wouldn't it be smarter to sample the oil at 5k and see if it needs changed?

5000km can be as little as 50 hours use. Engines with no oil filters have oil changes less frequently than that.

[coxy321]

use a mineral oil so the rings will smooth down the cylinder walls.

using a synthetic oil reduces the wear so it'll take longer for the rings to bed in, if ever at all.

there's no real need to run synthetic oil in any motor, unless your after longer oil change over times.

x2

I have used this theory successfully with 2 racing motorbikes and several cars.

For what its worth, I (and all the fellers i know that drive 2L/3L/5L hilux's) change our oil and filter at 5000km religiously.

Coxy

[barbz]

if your chasing JASO DHD-1 look at some caltex dello 400 - should be around $93 for 20l

[ShortyFortyTwo]

It is always a smart idea to take oil samples, but when you consider that an oil sample kit would cost roughly as much as an oil change I know which one I would be preforming.

Comparing oil hours to Kms travelled doesn't work. Things that measure oil life in terms of hours like plant equipment and generators have larger sumps compared to their engine capacities. If you doubled the size of you sump you could double that length of your oil changes.

Filters only require changing every 10K by the book, but I have cut open filters with 50k on them and they are still clean and providing adequite flow. Changing them every 5k is an unnessary expense.

[KiwiBacon]

It is always a smart idea to take oil samples, but when you consider that an oil sample kit would cost roughly as much as an oil change I know which one I would be preforming.

Comparing oil hours to Kms travelled doesn't work. Things that measure oil life in terms of hours like plant equipment and generators have larger sumps compared to their engine capacities. If you doubled the size of you sump you could double that length of your oil changes.

Filters only require changing every 10K by the book, but I have cut open filters with 50k on them and they are still clean and providing adequite flow. Changing them every 5k is an unnessary expense.

The point of oil sampling is knowing that at 5,000km, 10,000km etc that your oil doesn't need changed.
Sample a few times and you build a picture of what your engine actually needs.

My work car (it's a diesel nissan) specs oil and filter changes at up to 20,000km.

5000km is what the oil companies want you to believe.

[ShortyFortyTwo]

No, 5k is what Toyota want you to believe, last time I checked they weren't an oil company. On the older Toyota precombustion diesels the oil change interval is 5k.

I absolutly agree that the more samples you take the better the picture you recieve will be, But if you do a $40 oil test a 5k and find out that your oil won't make 10k you now have to pay for the kit and the oil change. In the interest of saving the owner some money I personally would recommend oil changes at 5k and an oil & filter change at 10k with a sample.

[coxy321]

I do mine AT or before 5000km, only because i'd be lucky to rack up 10,000km in a year. I dont mind "over-servicing" my car.

Coxy

[brad-chevlux]

I do mine AT or before 5000km, only because i'd be lucky to rack up 10,000km in a year. I dont mind "over-servicing" my car.

Coxy

i'd rather over do it. you can't hurt you engine with over servicing.
but you can with under servicing.

i do oil and filter ever 5k on all our cars. hell my old CRF450 used to get oil and filter every 6 hours (every time i took it out basicly) and at $100 for 4L of oil.