47series Ute

[joel HJ60]

Mates just bought an 82 model 47s Ute. It has drums all round, a 2H and a 4speed. Few questions:

1/ What's involved in slotting a 5 speed in? From what I've read the 60series (h55f) box is suitable?

2/ To put discs on the front, can we just source 2x swivel hubs and rotor hubs to suit and run that?

3/ Odometer seems to be rooted. The only dial that will spin is the one furthest to the right. What's the go with those suckers?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Joel.

[bad_religion_au]

5 speed requires the gearbox, shortening your rear shaft, and lengthening your front shaft. 60 series bolt up, but the shifter is in a different position (further back from the firewall than standard) so you need to chop the floor.

or use a Fj40/Fj45 5 speed (not Bj40/bj42 as they are different boxes). personally, i'd go the 60 series option.

yep, just source the swivel hubs. you'll also need the steering arms to suit the disk hubs, as the drum brake ones are different. you may need to change the master cylinder, or take the residual valve out. some need to, others don't... it's a bit hit and miss.

don't know about the odometer, i'd say the teeth on the furthest one to the right are worn out/rooted, as this is what drives the rest of them.

[v840]

You can also buy later model front diffs with discs already on there fairly cheaply.

[bad_religion_au]

You can also buy later model front diffs with discs already on there fairly cheaply.

that's an option too, although converting it yourself gives you a chance to rebuild the swivel hubs too.

if your planning on retaining your drum brake CV's, you need to use the drum brake free wheeling hub. if your planning on using the free wheeling hubs from the disk brake hubs, then get the CV's with them. the drum brake hubs have a longer stub shaft.

[joel HJ60]

5 speed requires the gearbox, shortening your rear shaft, and lengthening your front shaft. 60 series bolt up, but the shifter is in a different position (further back from the firewall than standard) so you need to chop the floor.

or use a Fj40/Fj45 5 speed (not Bj40/bj42 as they are different boxes). personally, i'd go the 60 series option.

yep, just source the swivel hubs. you'll also need the steering arms to suit the disk hubs, as the drum brake ones are different. you may need to change the master cylinder, or take the residual valve out. some need to, others don't... it's a bit hit and miss.

don't know about the odometer, i'd say the teeth on the furthest one to the right are worn out/rooted, as this is what drives the rest of them.

So the 60 is bolt up, dont need to worry about bell housings?


Also what's involved in pushing the front springs back so they sit flush with the front of the grill? Currently the hangers sit way out and it scrapes on everything. Doable?

[shorty_f0rty]

3/ Odometer seems to be rooted. The only dial that will spin is the one furthest to the right. What's the go with those suckers?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Joel.

take the dash out for the speedo (you'll have to unhook the speedo cable from behind and plugs)
undo the plastic thing and get to the speedo box
this should get you in to where the odo is..

i had the same issue with mine when i bought it (had the same odo reading on rego papers/rwc/etc ) it had gummed up with dust and old grease..

there is a metal pin around near the gear that turns the odo shaft, carefully pull this out and it will allow you to remove the gears..

keep them in order and clean them up.. make sure htey all turn good and put it back together.. its a bit fiddly but probly 30mins work. i crushed the pin when i took it out with the leatherman so be careful.

cheers,

Andrew

[bad_religion_au]

So the 60 is bolt up, dont need to worry about bell housings?


Also what's involved in pushing the front springs back so they sit flush with the front of the grill? Currently the hangers sit way out and it scrapes on everything. Doable?

should be completely bolt up from memory (been a little while)

not really doable with leaf springs. a spring reversal (solid mounted end of the spring goes to the front, shackle to the rear), different offset springs (i.e. ones with a centred spring pin... like the 75 series front springs), or bigger tires are your best bet at reducing the overhang.

[joel HJ60]

Thanks for all this info, have a power steering question now?

What's needed?

[bad_religion_au]

which way do you want to go?

standard setup bolts right up, you need the pump, the box, and not much else.

advantage is that there is no mods.

disadvantages... still alot of slop in the steering from all those tie rods and relay rods. still have the relay rod running up the outside of the chassis which is an issue on aggressive 33 inch tires, or any tire bigger than that.

plus most people with standard boxes think they're gold plated, so will charge a mint for them.

the other option is 60 series power steering.

Advantages, strong enough for 35+ inches (some rockcrawling buggies run 38+ on these boxes), losing the relay rod and relay box eliminates several area's of slop in the components. also eliminates the relay rod so bigger tires don't hit it.

disadvantages. some modification required, steering column choice is a tough one, mounting the steering damper takes some thought (standard one doesn't work with the setup. legally needs engineering cert.

for that setup, you need 60 series steering arms off the knuckles, 60 series steering rods (cut down) or 75 series rods (standard length) with tierods. 60 series powersteering box. standard pump for your motor.

4 high tensile bolts longer than those used in the 60 series conversion. 10mm plate to plate the chassis where it bolts on. crush tubes for the bolts.

you also need a steering column that has a universal joint not a rag joint.

a 55 series column was the standard, but these are getting thin on the ground. these look the same, bolt up to the same hole, and have the splined end to accept the intermediate shaft.

a 75 series or 60 series column can be modified to suit.

the intermediate shaft is longer than both 60 series and 55 series, so creativity is needed there. a 75 series intermediate shaft can be shortened (drill out the pin that stops the shaft collapsing, and collapse it to length). an 80 series intermediate shaft can also be made to work in some setups. various hilux/bundera/70 series have also been used.