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cluch
cluch
hey my cluch started slipping the other day while 4wd in sand and seems pritty bad how hard is it to change a cluch what needs to be done....
cheers
cheers
Definitely stick with Exedy for aftermarket!!
If you haven't had much experience with cars then maybe leave the clutch to someone who knows what they are doing. As far as 4wd clutches go Sierras and Vitaras are among the easiest.
If you haven't had much experience with cars then maybe leave the clutch to someone who knows what they are doing. As far as 4wd clutches go Sierras and Vitaras are among the easiest.
Last edited by ScrawnC on Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
But may not be as good....
Unless you were going to a sintered/sports replacement I'd go genuine. I have seen some very poor performance from stock replacements.
I have an Exedy stock replacement in my 660 and it's OK, but I didn't have any option with my 660, and I have such stupidly low gearing I'm not asking much of it.
The bigger problem is that sand is REALLY hard on clutches, especially if your gearing is out. Make sure your gearing is OK for the tyres you're running before you cook another clutch.
Steve.
Unless you were going to a sintered/sports replacement I'd go genuine. I have seen some very poor performance from stock replacements.
I have an Exedy stock replacement in my 660 and it's OK, but I didn't have any option with my 660, and I have such stupidly low gearing I'm not asking much of it.
The bigger problem is that sand is REALLY hard on clutches, especially if your gearing is out. Make sure your gearing is OK for the tyres you're running before you cook another clutch.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Ok, this is a took good opportunity to pass up. My clutch packed it in today, and im going to give it a go replaceing it myself.
And I did bible the question first, this is what I got.
Drain oil.
remove jackshafts from gbox to transfer, also front jackshaft to be easyier
remove starter
Remove gearstick.
remove gbox crossmember
remove sender wires from top of box and also clutch cable.
remove bolts in box and drop box out.
Is there any other advice people can give me before doing my first clutch replacement? Anything is much appreciated...
So it looks like people think excedy is the best, does anyone know a good supplier in Sydney that they can reccommend.
Wish us luck!
p.s Oh and is going to stockton (beach) in 3 weeks time a bad idea then on a brand new clutch. Wont be doing anything extreme...
And I did bible the question first, this is what I got.
Drain oil.
remove jackshafts from gbox to transfer, also front jackshaft to be easyier
remove starter
Remove gearstick.
remove gbox crossmember
remove sender wires from top of box and also clutch cable.
remove bolts in box and drop box out.
Is there any other advice people can give me before doing my first clutch replacement? Anything is much appreciated...
So it looks like people think excedy is the best, does anyone know a good supplier in Sydney that they can reccommend.
Wish us luck!
p.s Oh and is going to stockton (beach) in 3 weeks time a bad idea then on a brand new clutch. Wont be doing anything extreme...
- Exciting stock 96 Coily Sierra...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
its probablly the best time to go - less chance of burning a new one out than a 50% worn one =P haha
Just take along the right sized spanner to tighten it up... after mine was done, a week later the friction point had moved way out of whack as it settled in and needed adjustment.
Just take along the right sized spanner to tighten it up... after mine was done, a week later the friction point had moved way out of whack as it settled in and needed adjustment.
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
da13ro wrote: Is there any other advice people can give me before doing my first clutch replacement? Anything is much appreciated...
Get the flywheel machined.
Make sure you top up the gearbox with oil once it is back together
The only slightly technical part is lining up the clutch plate properly. If it is slightly out it makes fitting the box back in a royal PITA.
And also, put the gearbox in gear when refitting. That way you can turn the output shaft to line up the splines on input shaft and clutch plate.
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
$50 or so.da13ro wrote:Thanks for all the advice guys, will def give it a go. Priced up a exedy for $185, forgot to ask how much it is to machene the flywheel. Will see how we go.
Thanks again...
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Be careful there is actually two different thrust bearings
My clutch guy (Martins Clutch service Campbelltown) actually gives me both and I take back the one that I don't use
My clutch guy (Martins Clutch service Campbelltown) actually gives me both and I take back the one that I don't use
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
Fool_injected, two different ones? Is there any way to tell before hand on the model? Or when I take the flywheel down the get machined i take the old bearing down as well?
Let me just run over my symptoms, just so I know its the clutch.
* It started slipping when leaving the kurb
* A mm of foot on the clutch causes heavy slipping
* A scratchy noise leaving the kurb (thrust bearing?)
* A shudder, that sorta feels like its coming from the rear....when taking off?
* Extremely hard to select first gear, have to try a few times...
* Putting it into reverse causes the syncros to go nuts, hinting that there is excess rotation?
Not that i know a lot about this sorta thing, but slipping on acceleration coupled with hard to get it into gear, would mean....that its not a cable problem? And really is the clutch/flywheel & bearing? All together
It all has seemed to happen at once too, not over time...
Let me just run over my symptoms, just so I know its the clutch.
* It started slipping when leaving the kurb
* A mm of foot on the clutch causes heavy slipping
* A scratchy noise leaving the kurb (thrust bearing?)
* A shudder, that sorta feels like its coming from the rear....when taking off?
* Extremely hard to select first gear, have to try a few times...
* Putting it into reverse causes the syncros to go nuts, hinting that there is excess rotation?
Not that i know a lot about this sorta thing, but slipping on acceleration coupled with hard to get it into gear, would mean....that its not a cable problem? And really is the clutch/flywheel & bearing? All together
It all has seemed to happen at once too, not over time...
- Exciting stock 96 Coily Sierra...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
Think there was a year when they changed (maybe coily) but my truck being a frankenstien I never know until I pull it downda13ro wrote:Fool_injected, two different ones? Is there any way to tell before hand on the model? Or when I take the flywheel down the get machined i take the old bearing down as well?
.
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
da13ro wrote:Let me just run over my symptoms, just so I know its the clutch.
* It started slipping when leaving the kurb
* A mm of foot on the clutch causes heavy slipping
* A scratchy noise leaving the kurb (thrust bearing?)
* A shudder, that sorta feels like its coming from the rear....when taking off?
* Extremely hard to select first gear, have to try a few times...
* Putting it into reverse causes the syncros to go nuts, hinting that there is excess rotation?
Not that i know a lot about this sorta thing, but slipping on acceleration coupled with hard to get it into gear, would mean....that its not a cable problem? And really is the clutch/flywheel & bearing? All together
It all has seemed to happen at once too, not over time...
This all means the clutch is not clearing properly, engine is still drivng gears around. Is there freeplay at the clutch fork? There is an adjustment at the end of the cable where it meets the fork. The clutch is probably still worn out but worth adjusting first as you may get a bit more life out of it.
Theres 2 different clutches, 2 different pressure plates, 2 different thrust bearings and 2 different fly wheels. It all adds up to a PITA. I went down this road a couple of months back. The autobarn guy swore to me that it was the right clutch. He gave me the 19.3mm spline version when I needed the 22.75mm spline. Mine is a 91 and my girlfriends is an 88 both have the larger splined version. Basically when you buy the clutch kit you will usually get the pressure plate, thrust and clutch plate to suit one of the spline sizes above. As far as I know the earlier zuks had the 19.3mm spline version with a flat flywheel, the later ones had the 22.75mm spline version with a stepped flywheel. I reckon the safest option would be to pull it out and take the stock clutch plate in and compare the splined section to the new one.
Also check the fork inside the bell house that locates the thrust bearing. Theres a little locating pin for the thrust bearing. Mind had sheared off. As a result I put mine all back together and the bearing would fly back and forth hitting the pressure plate, jamming it all up and generally ruining my day hehe.
JW
Also check the fork inside the bell house that locates the thrust bearing. Theres a little locating pin for the thrust bearing. Mind had sheared off. As a result I put mine all back together and the bearing would fly back and forth hitting the pressure plate, jamming it all up and generally ruining my day hehe.
JW
Sierra
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
2 inch RUF
G16A
Megasquirt Injection
30 inch BFGs
Vit P/S
4.9 T/C gears
Hilux Project = Dead
Ok, so the clutch is all out, flywheel is of ready to be machened tomorrow. Should the engine be really loose now the gearbox has been removed. It is extremely loose, and can be moved around easily from the flywheel.
Cheers,
Brodie J
Cheers,
Brodie J
- Exciting stock 96 Coily Sierra...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
da13ro wrote: Should the engine be really loose now the gearbox has been removed. It is extremely loose, and can be moved around easily from the flywheel.
Yeah, it will be loose. It relys on the gearbox mount to hold it all in place. It will rock back and forward with only the 2 engine mounts holding it.
Well, its all on, and works beautifully. Was a bit of a pain getting the cable back on tight...
Thanks for all your help guys, wish I had taken more photo's, but if anyone else has any questions im pretty sure I can answer alot of them now...
Thanks for all your help guys, wish I had taken more photo's, but if anyone else has any questions im pretty sure I can answer alot of them now...
- Exciting stock 96 Coily Sierra...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
- Custom Roll Bar
- Diff breathers
30/31's to come...
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