35's on a Disco ??

[Dean85]

Just curious as what sort of lift some of the guys out there running 35's have on discovery's, ive got a 91 Disco V8, has 3" suspension lift and currently sits on 33" bridgestone wrangler M/T's, was thinking of going up to 35's if they will fit with no issue's, car already has guards chopped as well.

any info appreciated.

Cheers
Dean.

[cloughy]

Need a 2" body lift

[dassaw]

Yeah what cloughy said, 2" suspension and 2" body plus a guard cut,
and even then they will fit snuggly.

[Dean85]

so 3" suspension lift, 2" body lift, and the guard cut should be all good?

if so at least its 2/3 of the way done, anyone at all reccomend a good workshop around melbourne to do the job?

cheers for the help fellas
Dean.

[adam big lad]

hi mate i've got a series one disco with a 4 inch suspension lift with some flares from england and i run 36 in simex's with no grabin at full flex

[cloughy]

hi mate i've got a series one disco with a 4 inch suspension lift with some flares from england and i run 36 in simex's with no grabin at full flex

Only if you've got lowered shock mounts/bumpstops or your suspension is stiff as a board

[adam big lad]

no it flexes up nice i've lowered the shock mounts by 40 mm i'm running koni shocks with king springs the flares do most of the work they will take 36 tyres with only a 2 inch lift lot better then the lra flares i've smashed them into banking's and they just flex with no strecth marks.

[cloughy]

no it flexes up nice i've lowered the shock mounts by 40 mm i'm running koni shocks with king springs the flares do most of the work they will take 36 tyres with only a 2 inch lift lot better then the lra flares i've smashed them into banking's and they just flex with no strecth marks.

Yep the flares are shit, but I'm talking the inner gaurds, 33's will just rub without BL, front and rear

[adam big lad]

hi yes the inner arches have been moddified i did the work my self saved a fortune 33 are just not big enough with the tracks today

[cooter]

my 35s scrub the inner guard at full flex with no body liftand standard rear shock mounts

[stikman]

Hi Adam Big Lad (and everyone else that may help me out ),

Any chance you can post up some pics of the mods to the inner guard?

Put some 35s on yesterday and they grab badly on the rear arch (where the rear mud flaps used to join to the body). I have raised rear shock mounts so there appears to be nothing stopping the up flex until the springs bind or the tyre hits (extended bumps stops dont even get close to touching and shocks have about 2inch more up travel before they top out).
I have about 3-4inch spring lift, 2inch Body, and the tyres are 35x10.5 Silverstone Extremes on flipped disco rims (max offset).
Thoughts anyone? Do i keep chopping to get the tyres to miss? weld blocks to the diff to get the bump stops to hit? Put the standard shock mounts back on while keeping the longer shocks to get the shocks to stop the up travel? Will resticting the up travel effect the balance of the car? Is there such thing as too much up travel? (could this be causing my frequent wheel stands as the back tucks up?)

Sorry for all the questions, any help/suggestions welcomed and appreciated from all

Philippe

[awright]

The best option is to set your flares back as far as you can as the tyre moves back when it comes up. Then mod your existing bump stops. you can use a 50x 50 or 40 x 40 or 50x35 steel hollow section (around 6+mm works well) and just space the bump stop down. Then check your suspension on flex and see how much "unused shocker up-travel you have". If you do then you can drop your shocks back down to suit remembering to keep a little up your sleeve for compression (and only measure on flex- you dont want your shocks to stop the big bumps)

This way you get to run the big tyres with offset + still get the best travel possible.

[stikman]

The best option is to set your flares back as far as you can as the tyre moves back when it comes up. Then mod your existing bump stops. you can use a 50x 50 or 40 x 40 or 50x35 steel hollow section (around 6+mm works well) and just space the bump stop down. Then check your suspension on flex and see how much "unused shocker up-travel you have". If you do then you can drop your shocks back down to suit remembering to keep a little up your sleeve for compression (and only measure on flex- you dont want your shocks to stop the big bumps)

This way you get to run the big tyres with offset + still get the best travel possible.

Thanks

For some reason though at full flex the bump stop is still a long way from touching (atleast 2inches at a guess) and i have extended bump stops (from Paddocks). If i drop the bump stops that much further i will only have limited clearance at level and may then experience the bump stops hitting on the road (as i would say the back travels that far straight down with the soft springs).

Flares were only just touching which i can live with (and if i move these any further back the fuel downpipe will be exposed), the issue was the tyre hitting the inside of the arch, basically where the fuel hose runs across to the tank. There is a small lip which the metal part of the rear mudflap bolted to the body but without cutting into the boot area and building a new floor section i dont think i can make the tyre fit without limiting the up travel. Should the bump stops be touching on full up travel at flex? or does the geometry of the one wheel up one wheel down result in full up travel without the bump stop touching? I think i might need to drop the shock back down and use that to limit the up travel.

Thanks again for your help.

[GRIMACE]

Stikman, you dont want to drop your shock to limit the up travel.

You may find your springs are pretty much binding at full flex (before the bumpstops are required), this is only bad for the spring.

My old rangie suffered binding, hence why i never perminantly fitted large bump stops (as the car never even got close to them). I did loose a touch of up travel but i still managed to cycle 11" shocks completely front and rear. Then when i upgrade from 35 to 37s with no body lift the tyres became my bump stops, and the car still worked well IMHO .

The next one I will be setting up a touch different and like you also have the paddocks bump stops in the shed (changed my mind again )

You will find that with the larger spring lifts the bump stops become almost void as unless your really floggin the piss or hitting jumps they will never ever get touched...