Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Electric Brakes Controller power via strange device
Moderator: -Scott-
Electric Brakes Controller power via strange device
Hi there,
I've got a Hayman Reese electric brake controller installed on my 100 Series but the main 12V line running to it for power is connected via this little gadget mounted in the engine bay.
As you can see it's been shorted as the main casing of the unit is earthed but the 12V appeared to run through that plate which has "UFLEX B150" stamped on it. After some googling I found this appears to be some sort of thermoresistive metal.
Any ideas on what this thing is for and why my controller get's it's power via this much appreciated.
I've got a Hayman Reese electric brake controller installed on my 100 Series but the main 12V line running to it for power is connected via this little gadget mounted in the engine bay.
As you can see it's been shorted as the main casing of the unit is earthed but the 12V appeared to run through that plate which has "UFLEX B150" stamped on it. After some googling I found this appears to be some sort of thermoresistive metal.
Any ideas on what this thing is for and why my controller get's it's power via this much appreciated.
A relation just bought an electric brake controller last weekend- they recommended a 20 Amp self resetting circuit breaker be installed. What you've taken a picture of is exactly that. I think he paid around $15 for a Narva one.
The metal bit would be a bi metallic strip that bends with heat (from excess current flow) to open the circuit.
The metal bit would be a bi metallic strip that bends with heat (from excess current flow) to open the circuit.
David
Yes it is definitely a circuit breaker. Should have a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker fitted, NOT a fuse.
The reason a circuit breaker is fitted is so it re-sets itself after the fault has discontinued so you have brakes again.
Should be under ten bucks from Burson's or Repco or similar.
The reason a circuit breaker is fitted is so it re-sets itself after the fault has discontinued so you have brakes again.
Should be under ten bucks from Burson's or Repco or similar.
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
Sorry, I didn't mean to say a fuse specifically, I just meant that if the circuit breaker has been shorted across by the previous owner then you need to make sure there is some kind of replacement circuit protection in place.Ruffy wrote:Yes it is definitely a circuit breaker. Should have a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker fitted, NOT a fuse.
The reason a circuit breaker is fitted is so it re-sets itself after the fault has discontinued so you have brakes again.
Should be under ten bucks from Burson's or Repco or similar.
This is not legal advice.
Although I mentioned a fuse, I think Ruffy is right - a resettable circuit breaker is probably better than a fuse in this setting.floppinab wrote:Fantastic replies. Thanks everyone for the responses. After I posted this I realised that it obviously had to be some sort of circuit breaking device but I couldn't work out why it wouldn't be simple in-line fuse.
Thanks again.
This is not legal advice.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests