poping out of gear

[DavePatrol]

i fitted a 2inch body lift on my 96 coily swb suzuki sierra last week and it wouldent go in to 4l. 2nd, 4th and revers went in but felt like there was tention trying to pull them out. any way i pulled the boot of and cheched and found that it hit trying to go into 4l, so i cut some out and it all worked fine untill i put the boot back on than it wont go in easy i have to push it in realy hard or it will pop out, same as 2nd 4th and reverse i checked and thay dont hit anywere thay are just hard to put in. its like the boot is to small now just wanted to no if anyone has had this problem and how do i fix it?

cheers scott

[grimbo]

I think firstly using a few . . . . . helps

[Gwagensteve]

Gearbox:

Unbolt the boot surround and let it flop loosely with the gearbox in neutral.

Bolt it back in the "new" position - you'll need some tekscews/bolts as the boot will now want to sit about 2" further back, so you'll also need a strip of alloy or something to close the hole up near the heater box.

This will give you 2nd, 4th and Reverse.

transfer - that's normally the size of the hole in the body. The boot isn't normally a big deal but the body stops it going in to 4l.

You can bend the lever back a bit, try a different boot (speco make a floor shift boot that's very soft) try a leaf sierra boot - oh, hang on - the coil boot is different and from memory has a rubber inner bit you can pull out - the inner on the boot is quite stiff (from memory?)

Or you can lift the transfer case and fix the horrible jackshaft angle coilers have.

Steve.

[Zook_Fan]

will an aftermarket gear stick bag like a nice ricer one do the job?

[Gwagensteve]

No need. It won't seal as well and will be more work to mount than just moving the stock rubber. Not to mention the embarassment.

The stock rubber insulates a lot of heat and noise.

Steve.

[DavePatrol]

thanks for that Gwagensteve ill try it tomorow, also after i close the hole up it left what should i use to seal it

[Gwagensteve]

I've used thin alloy sheet before and 50mmX3mm flat steel bar or chequerplate when I've been in a bootyfab frame of mind.

Steve.

[DavePatrol]

you dont happen to have a pic of how you did it?

[greg]

I think firstly using a few . . . . . helps

where is the tech in this worthless and completely unfunny reply???

moderators - we need this rubbush sorted out!

what if someone did a search on key words like "think", "using" or "few"? surely their results would be tarnished with useless results like this...

i demand we get this cleaned up and fixed!

p.s. Grumbo - you're already angry enough - i think the last thing you need is a few more periods in a row

[Zook_Fan]

you just doubled the crap

[Gwagensteve]

This is a 1.0 litre but the principle is the same - that's a 1.3 5 speed boot.

[just cruizin']

YOu just need to trim the steel ring that retains the boot, cut about 5mm out of the bottom of the hole (make the hole larger). This is all that is required.

[DavePatrol]

is that for the trasfer case or the gearbox stick? i already re drilled the holes bigger for the gearbox so it moved down a little bit more it helped a bit but still not right

cheers scott

[just cruizin']

Gearbox, by trimming the retaining ring it allows the boot to flex more and stop pushing the lever out of gear

[RockHopper]

When I did my body lift I found I had to die grind a hole in the floorpan and the ring for when I selected 4w/low. Also, I had to piss those rubber boots off (the same as Gwagensteve's) and I bought a couple of schmick looking leather SAAS boots from supercheap. Suprisingly enough, there is no more road noise coming through the transmission tunnel than with the original boots.