Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

lockable manual kill switch, buy from where???

For all things Electrical.

Moderator: -Scott-

Post Reply
Posts: 204
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:32 am
Location: Gold Coast

lockable manual kill switch, buy from where???

Post by kitacooch »

Hi there, anyone know where i might be able to get hold of a lockable manual in line kill switch. I own heavy machinery which is often left on-site, people like to skrewdriver the ignitions and borrow the equipment. I have heard of these lockable kill switches where you have a kill switch inside a stell lockable outer casing and is installed in-line of the positive lead from the battery.
Any help much appreciated
Cheers
95 Disco, 3.9l V8, 35" Coopers St's, 2" Lift, True Tracks Font & Rear. Bar & Winch, Home Made Sliders.
Posts: 3098
Joined: Sat May 28, 2005 3:22 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by PJ.zook »

Most switches are setup on the negative lead to the battery, which will have the exact same effect as cutting off the positive lead, ie wont start.
Most trucks and machinery come with a built in switch, but if not you can buy them from any truck accessory shop, then its a simple job of wiring it in with heavy duty cabling, and making yourself a security box to house it in.
Some models come with a removable handle on the switch, which would stop joyriders but any idiot with a similar handle can just come along and turn it on again.

You can also buy relay style switches, which basically are as they say, a massive relay that does the same job as the switch mentioned above, except its switched electrically instead of physically. You could hide it in the chassis somewhere then have the on/off switch hidden in cab or turned on/off by a codepad/electronic keyswitch, etc...
Motorized three seater couch buildup:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 0&t=196047
Posts: 204
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:32 am
Location: Gold Coast

Post by kitacooch »

Cheers PJ, i like the code pad idea as the other problem we have is that builder sometimes need to move the machinery when we not there, and as every one knows that we hide keys they just go looking for them, codes can be changed regularly when too many people know what the code is. My only concern would be reliability of code pad and relay.

Thanks again
95 Disco, 3.9l V8, 35" Coopers St's, 2" Lift, True Tracks Font & Rear. Bar & Winch, Home Made Sliders.
Posts: 3098
Joined: Sat May 28, 2005 3:22 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by PJ.zook »

The relays will last you a long time as long as they are not constantly submerged in dirt and water. As for the keypad, you can go from a cheap Jaycar kit, up to a professional security system codepad.
Another advantage is it would be a custom system, so a lot harder to get around, although as the saying goes, if they really want it, they will get it.
Motorized three seater couch buildup:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 0&t=196047
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:32 pm
Location: Townsville

Post by ryno_0000 »

being heavy machinery, there should be some kind of hole to sercure a padlock through to lock the battery isolator to off, then allow the builder to have a set of keys and yourself, then the pad lock has to be cut to allow the iso to more, alot of machines have the isolators under a lockable door or panel.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest