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Roll Protection for a soft top Sierra
Master of my own domain
Roll Protection for a soft top Sierra
Im currently looking into making up a Roll bar for my Sierra, but not sure to what "level" of protection i need.
Obviously a full exo would be great. But is it over-kill? Will a simple Roll bar do the trick?
I dont compete, and probably never will. I dont do anything too extreme, but im not scared to push the limits. Most of my 4b-ing is slowish paced.
Where i've probably had 2 "oh crap i might roll" situations in the entire time ive owned my 100 series cruiser, i probably have 5-6 "oh crap i might roll" situations in a single outing in the Sierra!
Basically what i want is protection that if i do roll, my head wont be crushed into the ground! Im not too worried about the zook really!
How much protection does the stock sheet metal roll bar offer?
How much would a simple (ute style??) roll bar offer?
Thanks
Mike
Obviously a full exo would be great. But is it over-kill? Will a simple Roll bar do the trick?
I dont compete, and probably never will. I dont do anything too extreme, but im not scared to push the limits. Most of my 4b-ing is slowish paced.
Where i've probably had 2 "oh crap i might roll" situations in the entire time ive owned my 100 series cruiser, i probably have 5-6 "oh crap i might roll" situations in a single outing in the Sierra!
Basically what i want is protection that if i do roll, my head wont be crushed into the ground! Im not too worried about the zook really!
How much protection does the stock sheet metal roll bar offer?
How much would a simple (ute style??) roll bar offer?
Thanks
Mike
Good questions mike.
The stock bar provides more protection than you think. It will deform heavily in a flop but it's still surprisingly strong. Partially because it does deform - it tends to absorb the hit and slows everything down.
Adding a well designed roll bar to the rear will help for sure. going further then that tends to result in lots of compromise - lost cabin space, legal issues, or lost capability due to the increased COG and bulk of an exo.
In an offroad "flop" a ute type rear 4 point will help prevent the B pillar becoming too distorted and coming in at you.
Find out who builds race car stuff in your area and get pricing from them. If you want a roll bar, ask for ( and pay for) one from someone who actually builds them, not a "sport bar" from an accessory shop.
You can also sort yourself out so a flop won't be the end of the world. Make sure everything in the car is very well tied down. If you're playing, don't run doors or run 1/2 doors, take the soft top off, and fold or remove the windscreen. make sure the battery is properly retained and you have some spare fluids to top up what falls out when its on it's side.
I've seen lots of cars go over through the years and I'm yet to see severe damage or (thankfully) an injury. Even where the cars had a rollbar, I've rarely seen one come into play (and never outside of competition). I'm not saying they're useful, just less necessary than you might think, if you're not competing or hitting stuff hard.
One thing that does happen when you have a functional roll bar is that you tend to drive differently - and obviously, that can be a double edged sword - because it's there, you might find you drive yourself into needing it.
Just some thoughts.
Steve.
The stock bar provides more protection than you think. It will deform heavily in a flop but it's still surprisingly strong. Partially because it does deform - it tends to absorb the hit and slows everything down.
Adding a well designed roll bar to the rear will help for sure. going further then that tends to result in lots of compromise - lost cabin space, legal issues, or lost capability due to the increased COG and bulk of an exo.
In an offroad "flop" a ute type rear 4 point will help prevent the B pillar becoming too distorted and coming in at you.
Find out who builds race car stuff in your area and get pricing from them. If you want a roll bar, ask for ( and pay for) one from someone who actually builds them, not a "sport bar" from an accessory shop.
You can also sort yourself out so a flop won't be the end of the world. Make sure everything in the car is very well tied down. If you're playing, don't run doors or run 1/2 doors, take the soft top off, and fold or remove the windscreen. make sure the battery is properly retained and you have some spare fluids to top up what falls out when its on it's side.
I've seen lots of cars go over through the years and I'm yet to see severe damage or (thankfully) an injury. Even where the cars had a rollbar, I've rarely seen one come into play (and never outside of competition). I'm not saying they're useful, just less necessary than you might think, if you're not competing or hitting stuff hard.
One thing that does happen when you have a functional roll bar is that you tend to drive differently - and obviously, that can be a double edged sword - because it's there, you might find you drive yourself into needing it.
Just some thoughts.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
im love my "boat rack". its not intended to comply with anything, but ive tested it a fair few times and its strong enough for what i do.
it didnt cost me much to make, has saved me lots of panel damage
as for the standard hoop, they can handle a lay down but good luck
you said you were looking into MAKING one so assuming u can weld
i reckon go buy a few lengths of pipe and go nuts.
it didnt cost me much to make, has saved me lots of panel damage
as for the standard hoop, they can handle a lay down but good luck
you said you were looking into MAKING one so assuming u can weld
i reckon go buy a few lengths of pipe and go nuts.
Master of my own domain
Thanks for the advice guys. I might look into making a simple 4 point roll-bar. Nothing too fancy.
Yes i can weld (Fitter by trade). I have an arc welder.
I also have access to a gas-less Mig. Its a decent unit, worth around $1500.
I'd probably use the stick/arc welder tho, unless someone can reccomend otherwise?
All i need now is some pipe, some time and a good simple design.
Why do you suggest no doors gwag?
Thanks again
Mike
Yes i can weld (Fitter by trade). I have an arc welder.
I also have access to a gas-less Mig. Its a decent unit, worth around $1500.
I'd probably use the stick/arc welder tho, unless someone can reccomend otherwise?
All i need now is some pipe, some time and a good simple design.
Why do you suggest no doors gwag?
Thanks again
Mike
Because when you do fall over, the doors tend to cop it and that's a pain when you want the car to seal/lock/look tidy. Doors are fairly expensive in reasonable condition, they're heavy so make the rolling problem worse, broken door glass though the interior sucks the big one.
Also, it's much easier to drive a car in tricky conditions with no doors/low 1/2 doors so you're less likely to roll in the first place.
Steve.
Also, it's much easier to drive a car in tricky conditions with no doors/low 1/2 doors so you're less likely to roll in the first place.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
PS you really need tube, not pipe, and a quality bender. Material choice and design is very important.
I use Racetech 350 tube - 1.75" for roll cages.
My own dodgy exothingy uses steam pipe, but by design it's not designed to roll on - it's to add strength to the cab.
Steve.
I use Racetech 350 tube - 1.75" for roll cages.
My own dodgy exothingy uses steam pipe, but by design it's not designed to roll on - it's to add strength to the cab.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Just some points for you here mate.
Mines a ute chop and the tray sticks out a little past my panels, I also have an ARB front whinch bar and offset rims so my tyres sit outside of the factory flairs.
When I had my flop (and it was very gentle) not one panel touched the ground. The side of the tray, front bar and the tyres copped it all.
Steve speaks pure truth about roll bars, exo's are often more detriment than they are useful, even on a comp vehicle.
I'm not saying chop it into a ute but a front bar and offset rims could be handy.
Mines a ute chop and the tray sticks out a little past my panels, I also have an ARB front whinch bar and offset rims so my tyres sit outside of the factory flairs.
When I had my flop (and it was very gentle) not one panel touched the ground. The side of the tray, front bar and the tyres copped it all.
Steve speaks pure truth about roll bars, exo's are often more detriment than they are useful, even on a comp vehicle.
I'm not saying chop it into a ute but a front bar and offset rims could be handy.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
Master of my own domain
Huh alien?
My wheels do stick out further than stock. Tyres are 33x12.5".
Also has Jeep flares, and ARB Winch bar.
I have 'bumped' the side of embankments, (I know, hardly compares to a roll, but..) and the jeep flares worked nicely to protect the body.
But as i was saying, The Zook is the least of my worries. Top of the list is whats inside! Myself and sometimes family members!
Thanks again for all the excellent information! aah except you alien!
Mike
My wheels do stick out further than stock. Tyres are 33x12.5".
Also has Jeep flares, and ARB Winch bar.
I have 'bumped' the side of embankments, (I know, hardly compares to a roll, but..) and the jeep flares worked nicely to protect the body.
But as i was saying, The Zook is the least of my worries. Top of the list is whats inside! Myself and sometimes family members!
Thanks again for all the excellent information! aah except you alien!
Mike
Master of my own domain
Haha now i get ya! Was a little confused!alien wrote:hahahaha no worries =)
i was referring to when a passenger hangs off the side of the car to balance it in a tricky situation.... admit it - you've all done it!
Thought you meant something like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rmKR1KMeD0
the best i have seen was a 6 point cage that was designed to be light but strong in the event of a "flop", it was the std in the back the cage tied to the body in the back corners and behind the original roll bar but the front was looped up behind the windscreen and a single piece of tube between the font and the rear to tie it together, the owner told me that he had come down on the cage fairly hard a few times at Landcruiser last year and has had no problems cept the paint coming off
rear quarters are evil and must be punished with rocks
That vid cracked me upmike_nofx wrote:Thought you meant something like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rmKR1KMeD0
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