Hi guys,
Halfway through replacing the LHS INNER CV boot on a 1989 (NT) Paj Diesel.
Everything went smoothly, until we had to pop the CV joint apart. Is there a trick to it?
Do I need to pull the circlip from the bell first, or should it just pop off with a soft hammer?
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Paj CV dissasembly?
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Paj CV dissasembly?
Last edited by ISUZUROVER on Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
You need a vice , some kind of drift , I use 50 x 10 copper bar , clamp the axle and have some one hold it straight while you whack it , also to catch it when it comes off , gloves a must. The circlip generally stays on the axle in most cases , Cheers Paul.
BLOWNZUK 1.3 efi,sc14 supercharger,hilux diffs,detroit lockers,stage 4 rockhopper,6 point cage,35 muddies.
Is it a "Double offset joint"? (Usual for inner joints) Can easily be identified if it is as it will have straight sides to the bell to allow angular changes as well as slight lengthening of the joint as well (30-40mm or so). If this is the case then there is usually a spring steel circlip in the cup itself (a couple of mm from the top of the cup) that needs to be removed using fine tipped pliers and the joint will slip apart.
If it is a conventional "Constant velocity joint" (only allowing angular changes on the joint) go with the old BFH via a block of wood to prevent the bell from being damaged. Generally retained internally by a round cros sectioned circlip to facilitate removal.
If it is a conventional "Constant velocity joint" (only allowing angular changes on the joint) go with the old BFH via a block of wood to prevent the bell from being damaged. Generally retained internally by a round cros sectioned circlip to facilitate removal.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Thanks guys, managed to sort it just after I posted the Q. 
Isn't it always the way...
I removed the wire circlip on the bell and then the rest was easy. EXCEPT that the wire circlip seeled to have lost its tension (and there wasn't another in the boot kit) - so it came apart before I could get the top ball joint attached...
All in all though, replacing a CV/Boot on a Paj is quicker and easier than other vehicles I have done (subarus, IFS nissans, etc...).
Isn't it always the way... I removed the wire circlip on the bell and then the rest was easy. EXCEPT that the wire circlip seeled to have lost its tension (and there wasn't another in the boot kit) - so it came apart before I could get the top ball joint attached...
All in all though, replacing a CV/Boot on a Paj is quicker and easier than other vehicles I have done (subarus, IFS nissans, etc...).
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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