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Moving rear shock mounts for a longer shock?

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Moving rear shock mounts for a longer shock?

Post by hulsty »

Hi All,

How have people gone about moving the rear shock mounts on a FJ73 style rig to put the shocks onto a greater angle allowing the fitment of longer shocks?

As my car sits with 50mm lowered rear bump stops I can only fit a 10'' travel shock and I think I will need more!

These are the shocks I will be fitting, hopefully the 12'' model or more!

http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/catalog/c5 ... 4f29f.aspx

As space is tight I was thinking of welding a pin to a curved plate to match the existing tube then welding it where required, or should I be drilling the existing tube and running a pin all the way through?

Any issues welding in the vincity of the fuel tank?

thanks
Last edited by hulsty on Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by sierrajim »

Will have to take a look under mine. I wonder if a shock mounting kit off a Hilux would work? lower axle tube mounts and an upper designed to mount to a tubular crossmember.

The main issue you'll have is finding a shock with stiff enough valving to work on much of an angle on such a heavy car.
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Post by mick&shon »

talk to humphey on this forum he's a wizz with where all the mounts go if you
cant find him here pm me and ill give you his email though pm he got a spring works and heavy into building rock crawlers and comp trucks so he should be able to help cheers mick
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Post by hulsty »

sierrajim wrote:Will have to take a look under mine. I wonder if a shock mounting kit off a Hilux would work? lower axle tube mounts and an upper designed to mount to a tubular crossmember.

The main issue you'll have is finding a shock with stiff enough valving to work on much of an angle on such a heavy car.
I've got flat U bolt plates with the shock mounts in them, shocks I was aiming for are the bilstins that are valved for leaves. But then the angle and weight, probably 2.5T loaded all up. I just remember shock to diff pumpking clearance might be problem, I have a 60 series rear which pushes the pumpkin towards the wheel more d'oh! Might have to sit down for a good think on this one
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Post by TWISTY »

Had to do the same kinda thing when I moved the rear diff on my 40 back 5 inches. Std. pins are usually on the front of the tube cross member. Originally thought of just drilling the cross member and welding in a bolt, but wasn't confident in getting the hole straight and level.

Ended up hole sawing some RHS and then cut it in half and welded a bolt to that. Then welded that to the cross member, worked a treat and was easy as.

Image


I come no where near to maxing out the 12" shocks on the rear of mine but. And they aren't even on much more of an angle then stock.
Image
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Post by bj on roids »

hulsty wrote:
sierrajim wrote:Will have to take a look under mine. I wonder if a shock mounting kit off a Hilux would work? lower axle tube mounts and an upper designed to mount to a tubular crossmember.

The main issue you'll have is finding a shock with stiff enough valving to work on much of an angle on such a heavy car.
I've got flat U bolt plates with the shock mounts in them, shocks I was aiming for are the bilstins that are valved for leaves. But then the angle and weight, probably 2.5T loaded all up. I just remember shock to diff pumpking clearance might be problem, I have a 60 series rear which pushes the pumpkin towards the wheel more d'oh! Might have to sit down for a good think on this one
Yeah you will need more clearance on the shock on the pumpkin side as its offset.

The other problem is, the more you lean them in, the harder they need to be to do the same job i.e. not working as effectively at 45deg as they would at 90deg
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Post by hulsty »

TWISTY wrote:Had to do the same kinda thing when I moved the rear diff on my 40 back 5 inches. Std. pins are usually on the front of the tube cross member. Originally thought of just drilling the cross member and welding in a bolt, but wasn't confident in getting the hole straight and level.

Ended up hole sawing some RHS and then cut it in half and welded a bolt to that. Then welded that to the cross member, worked a treat and was easy as.

Image


I come no where near to maxing out the 12" shocks on the rear of mine but. And they aren't even on much more of an angle then stock.
Image
Thanks for that, the 12'' shocks is what I was aiming for I only need about 30mm more length to fit them in without bottoming them out on compression with 50mm lowered bump stops
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Post by hulsty »

TWISTY, how do you find the bilstien shocks? those are what i'm hoping to get, 12'' front and rear with the ford shock towers
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Post by TWISTY »

hulsty wrote:TWISTY, how do you find the bilstien shocks? those are what i'm hoping to get, 12'' front and rear with the ford shock towers
I'm real happy with them. They are defintley softer then most, which means a little more bodyroll, but on my old springs it was still easily bearable and a much better ride then the skyjackers I originally had fitted.
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Post by Slunnie »

Twisty, were there valving options on them when you bought or more a case of what they come with? If there are, do you know which valving code you got?
Cheers
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Post by TWISTY »

Pretty sure there is two valving options available, and I went for the 255/70. I think the other valving option is for dual shock setups.

255/70 valving is what was recomended all over the IH8Mud forum for leaf springs.
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Post by Slunnie »

Cool, thanks for that.
Cheers
Slunnie

Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
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