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Moving rear shock mounts for a longer shock?
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:16 pm
by hulsty
Hi All,
How have people gone about moving the rear shock mounts on a FJ73 style rig to put the shocks onto a greater angle allowing the fitment of longer shocks?
As my car sits with 50mm lowered rear bump stops I can only fit a 10'' travel shock and I think I will need more!
These are the shocks I will be fitting, hopefully the 12'' model or more!
http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/catalog/c5 ... 4f29f.aspx
As space is tight I was thinking of welding a pin to a curved plate to match the existing tube then welding it where required, or should I be drilling the existing tube and running a pin all the way through?
Any issues welding in the vincity of the fuel tank?
thanks
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:20 pm
by sierrajim
Will have to take a look under mine. I wonder if a shock mounting kit off a Hilux would work? lower axle tube mounts and an upper designed to mount to a tubular crossmember.
The main issue you'll have is finding a shock with stiff enough valving to work on much of an angle on such a heavy car.
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:30 pm
by mick&shon
talk to humphey on this forum he's a wizz with where all the mounts go if you
cant find him here pm me and ill give you his email though pm he got a spring works and heavy into building rock crawlers and comp trucks so he should be able to help cheers mick
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:49 pm
by hulsty
sierrajim wrote:Will have to take a look under mine. I wonder if a shock mounting kit off a Hilux would work? lower axle tube mounts and an upper designed to mount to a tubular crossmember.
The main issue you'll have is finding a shock with stiff enough valving to work on much of an angle on such a heavy car.
I've got flat U bolt plates with the shock mounts in them, shocks I was aiming for are the bilstins that are valved for leaves. But then the angle and weight, probably 2.5T loaded all up. I just remember shock to diff pumpking clearance might be problem, I have a 60 series rear which pushes the pumpkin towards the wheel more d'oh! Might have to sit down for a good think on this one
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:13 am
by TWISTY
Had to do the same kinda thing when I moved the rear diff on my 40 back 5 inches. Std. pins are usually on the front of the tube cross member. Originally thought of just drilling the cross member and welding in a bolt, but wasn't confident in getting the hole straight and level.
Ended up hole sawing some RHS and then cut it in half and welded a bolt to that. Then welded that to the cross member, worked a treat and was easy as.
I come no where near to maxing out the 12" shocks on the rear of mine but. And they aren't even on much more of an angle then stock.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:02 am
by bj on roids
hulsty wrote:sierrajim wrote:Will have to take a look under mine. I wonder if a shock mounting kit off a Hilux would work? lower axle tube mounts and an upper designed to mount to a tubular crossmember.
The main issue you'll have is finding a shock with stiff enough valving to work on much of an angle on such a heavy car.
I've got flat U bolt plates with the shock mounts in them, shocks I was aiming for are the bilstins that are valved for leaves. But then the angle and weight, probably 2.5T loaded all up. I just remember shock to diff pumpking clearance might be problem, I have a 60 series rear which pushes the pumpkin towards the wheel more d'oh! Might have to sit down for a good think on this one
Yeah you will need more clearance on the shock on the pumpkin side as its offset.
The other problem is, the more you lean them in, the harder they need to be to do the same job i.e. not working as effectively at 45deg as they would at 90deg
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:18 am
by hulsty
TWISTY wrote:Had to do the same kinda thing when I moved the rear diff on my 40 back 5 inches. Std. pins are usually on the front of the tube cross member. Originally thought of just drilling the cross member and welding in a bolt, but wasn't confident in getting the hole straight and level.
Ended up hole sawing some RHS and then cut it in half and welded a bolt to that. Then welded that to the cross member, worked a treat and was easy as.
I come no where near to maxing out the 12" shocks on the rear of mine but. And they aren't even on much more of an angle then stock.
Thanks for that, the 12'' shocks is what I was aiming for I only need about 30mm more length to fit them in without bottoming them out on compression with 50mm lowered bump stops
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:24 am
by hulsty
TWISTY, how do you find the bilstien shocks? those are what i'm hoping to get, 12'' front and rear with the ford shock towers
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:36 pm
by TWISTY
hulsty wrote:TWISTY, how do you find the bilstien shocks? those are what i'm hoping to get, 12'' front and rear with the ford shock towers
I'm real happy with them. They are defintley softer then most, which means a little more bodyroll, but on my old springs it was still easily bearable and a much better ride then the skyjackers I originally had fitted.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:56 pm
by Slunnie
Twisty, were there valving options on them when you bought or more a case of what they come with? If there are, do you know which valving code you got?
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:59 pm
by TWISTY
Pretty sure there is two valving options available, and I went for the 255/70. I think the other valving option is for dual shock setups.
255/70 valving is what was recomended all over the IH8Mud forum for leaf springs.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:19 pm
by Slunnie
Cool, thanks for that.