I to have a MQ 24 volt sytem. My question is when i have the headlights on and i rev up the engine the lights and the volt meter flicker constatntly. At idle they don't.
Is there a problem or is it the 'norm' for these models. (Diesel too)
Giffo
P.S. When I bought my MQ the last owner placed two converters under the front seat. One to run the rear diff lock compressor and the other to run 12 volt stuff like the radio/cassette, CB etc. Main power source came from 24 volt to convertor.
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MQ 24 Volt electrical question
Moderator: -Scott-
hrm I think I know that vehicle...
the voltage should sit around 28V at higher revs, the headlights should not flicker.
start by pulling apart and cleaning every electrical connector you can find, on the charge circuit (batt terminals, earth straps, alternator terminals, regulator) and on the headlight circuit (earths, globes, switch, etc). the switches in old patrols are flakey but one from a similar vintage 200B or bluebird should fit and work if you need to replace it. also test every bit of wire in headlight and charge circuits for resistance, a low ohms meter would be good ut a multimeter will do, you want all the wires to measure zero ohms, any resistance shows breaks or corrosion in the wire.
I installed the wiring for compressor/locker/reverse light and possibly more, it was done on the cheap because the previous owner is a jew (sorry SJP it's true!) but should be reliable.
the voltage should sit around 28V at higher revs, the headlights should not flicker.
start by pulling apart and cleaning every electrical connector you can find, on the charge circuit (batt terminals, earth straps, alternator terminals, regulator) and on the headlight circuit (earths, globes, switch, etc). the switches in old patrols are flakey but one from a similar vintage 200B or bluebird should fit and work if you need to replace it. also test every bit of wire in headlight and charge circuits for resistance, a low ohms meter would be good ut a multimeter will do, you want all the wires to measure zero ohms, any resistance shows breaks or corrosion in the wire.
I installed the wiring for compressor/locker/reverse light and possibly more, it was done on the cheap because the previous owner is a jew (sorry SJP it's true!) but should be reliable.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
dumbdunce wrote:hrm I think I know that vehicle... it was done on the cheap because the previous owner is a jew (sorry SJP it's true!) but should be reliable.
It's ok Dumbdance, I had a limited budget to work with and rather than use a "quality" repairer such as my mates' at Macquarie I took the risk and went to mob called "T. S. Engineering". In hindsight even the name of the company sounds a bit dodgy, but at the time the CEO of the firm assured me that all would be good, except the price was never fixed like those wonderful people at Ultra Tune or Midas do when a customer chooses them as their repairer and when I returned to pick up my vehicle I had to bargan the price down to get my car back. I should have sold my story to Today Tonight when i had the chance ... oh well we all learn the hard way.
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