Outer Limits 4x4 Board

LETS GO..

The whole process of fitting power windows to my 75 series ute was the simple fact that, I was sick of my knee hitting the window winder handle (crank) when driving.. In the bush its even worse. So the only remedy was electric.

But they dont make electric window regulators for 75 series as I know of.
Or if they do imagine the cost... 1 window motor from toyota is $900 .....crazy.....and you need 2 regulators aswell .( the mechanical bit).

Only other option is to buy a universal window kit. DONT BOTHER, BEEN THERE DONE THAT....DONT WORK REAL GOOD AT ALL.

So lets go the factory look.


WHAT YOU NEED TO DO FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE is go the the wreckers and get youreself, 2 front door, left & right electric window regulators with motors.

THESE MUST BE FROM A "TOYOTA".

What model?....Camry, Cressida, Landcruiser...dosent matter.. as long as tthey look like the one below.....NON-Cable type.

These ones are the scissor type and are from a Toyota Cressida...and an old one at that.

I paid $80 for both... TEST the motors before leaving the wreckers so you know the motors are ok.

I had a look at alot of regulators whilst I was there and apart from the arms the motor and housings are all the same dimensions for mounting.





WHEN YOU HAVE 2 OF THESE LEFT & RIGHT THEN FOLLOW MY THREAD.

1....

Remove youre original manual regulators but keep them as youre going to need the arms.. see below.

Grind off stud as per image..This is the drivers side winder.

[img][img]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj28 ... EMOVAL.jpg[/img][/img]

2....
you should now have this off.



3...

Cut of the teeth at this point roughly as per photo.



4....

Cut off the arm from youre electric regulator..as per photos









5....This is the location of where youre new regulator fits...holes are already there..no need to drill.




should sit about here...ther are 4 screws to hold it on. You can use the same ones from the manual winder as the threads are the same..

Do a test fit 4 now ONLY if you like..

6....
This is what the regulator would look like when fitted behind the door skin.


DO NOT WELD THE ARMS ON AT ANY POINT UNTILL INSTRUCTED OR YOU WILL BE IN DEEP SHIT...





The next photo is one with it fitted..

The RED circles are the electric mount screws, while the BLUE is the old manual holes..

AT NO POINT DO YOU WELD THE ARMS ON YET...

THAT IS THE MOST CRUCIAL PART OF THE WHOLE JOB..

With the regulator out, lower the window down by hand if it hasnt already fallen down, untill you see the bottom window chanel as per photo...




Lower the window down enough so none of the top of the window is sticking out the top ( ie the window is in the fully open position)...

With a felt pen mark on youre door where the outer edges of the chanel are..You can youse my photo as a reference as it will be the same as youres anyway.. Marked with RED circles on photo.





In the above image, there is a "maximum arm length" mark.

What this means is when you have welded youre arm onto the new electric regulator the bearing runner that is on the end of youre old regulator arm MUST NOT exceed this point when it drives up and down. If it does the bearing runner will come out of the window chanel and the window will collapse and the whole thing wont work..This is one of the MOST CRUCIAL measurements you will need.. I will post this measurement further along the thread.

These are the marks with the window fully down.
The widow of course will fall all the way to the bottom of the door if not supported. But when a regultator is attatched it will only travel as far as this.
TIP..you can do these markings with the manual winder still attatched. Its a lot easier.



THIS IS WHAT I MEAN ABOUT MAXIMUM ARM LENGTH..WHEN THE REGULATOR ARM HAS TRAVELED ITS MAXIMUM DISTANCE TO THE RIGHT.
I have deliberatly got the roller out of the chanell for measuring purposes.

THE WINDOW HERE IS ROUGHLY HALF WAY DOWN/UP.

OK
DO NOT WELD ARMS ON YET OR YOU WILL CRASH AND BURN...

If youre totally confused by now then just post a question and I will run you through it.

Now for the tricky bits........

This is roughly what youre new rebuilt regulator will look like when welded up.
This is a fully functioning regulator.....1 weld on the front and 2 on the other side as seen on the back of the arm..

MAKE SURE THE ARMS BEARING RUNNER IS FACING OUT "TEETH SIDE" TOWARDS WINDOW WHEN FITTING. Otherwise when you fit it to the window it will be facing away from the window chanell runner..





TAKE NOTE>>>>




If you do not get the new angle right or the length from the pivot point..( ie middle of the spring) to the end of the roller arm on the tip of the arm
perfectly, give or take a mm or two.

1 of 3 things is going to happen..( worst case you totally stuff up and get all 3 )....

1..the regulator roller will fall out of the window runner cause youre arm is too long..

2..If the angle aint right the window will open fully but NOT close fully.

3. If the angle aint right youre window will close fully but NOT open fully leaving some of the top of the window sticking out, just enough to annoy youre arm when youve got the window wound down...


<<<<<< DONT WELD YET>>>>>>

I will post some more info 2morrow as Im going for a beer...

thanks going to track some regs down brilient thread

Awesome work Crozza!!!

I have just been asking about fitting power windows to my HZJ78 troopy campervan on a few other forums over the past few days, and someone kindly pointed me to this thread (thanks Phil!).

I have been trying to find out if I can source the power window mechanism from another 70 series model and fit it to my doors, or if I would have to find whole doors with the power windows in them and swap them over.

I don't think I could handle the DIY approach myself, so will keep looking for 70 series power window mechanisms/doors from wreckers.

I am really interested in how yours work out, please keep us updated as to the progress and outcome.

Thanks,
Simon
Canberra

Great write up!

SimonInAustralia wrote:Awesome work Crozza!!!

I have just been asking about fitting power windows to my HZJ78 troopy campervan on a few other forums over the past few days, and someone kindly pointed me to this thread (thanks Phil!).

I have been trying to find out if I can source the power window mechanism from another 70 series model and fit it to my doors, or if I would have to find whole doors with the power windows in them and swap them over.

I don't think I could handle the DIY approach myself, so will keep looking for 70 series power window mechanisms/doors from wreckers.

I am really interested in how yours work out, please keep us updated as to the progress and outcome.

Thanks,
Simon
Canberra

Other 70 series ones will work, but more rare

Thanks Men...

I have these already installed and wired up. They work as good as factory standard too.

More images and instructions to follow..

If you want factory stuff, there are a few LX middys in wreckers down this way with factory windows.

I wonder... Do the regulators from an 167 series with electrickery windows work with the older 106 series doors..... Might have to visit a wreckers- cos if the door skins swap over too, ive got an easy solution to my mangled door skins AND electric windows! I know my surf loom has all the wiring and fuses ready to go too!

This is looking like a lot of work, to get power windows.

Not as much work as I had expected, the new power mechanism seems to bolt straight in, he is just swapping the arm from the manual winder onto the power winder.

where did u mount the swich crozza i got the motors now and going to have a go this weekend (im going to my cousins to clam back my mig)

I mounted mine on the right side of the dash below the air vent. 2 switches , 1 for each window. Most people have there driving light switches there. I did, but moved them over to the left of the dash instead.

I did this as I use the window switch more than the driving light switch for ease of access.

You could cut them into the door trim if you wanted somehow.

Do you know how to make a wiring harness for them?

I will post the rest of the photos including measuring on SATURDAY.

All other switches I mounted here.

This is an old photo for refernce only..as u can see it still has a winder

Excellent thread mate, great detail. Good job.

Great work, I have to do this with my windows as I have the same prob with knee hitting the winder. Thanks for the info.

Paul F

Ok
Sorry to those who have been following this post and who have maybe taken on the task of fitting this mod to their car, but my PC blew up so I had to get another..It too blew up so I have had to repair this old one instead.

Im now back on air and will post the rest of the pics and instructions ASAP.

Crozz

SimonInAustralia wrote:Not as much work as I had expected, the new power mechanism seems to bolt straight in, he is just swapping the arm from the manual winder onto the power winder.

Cutting and welding the two together...

But it is giving me a great head start, I am pillaging some mechs off a camry...

Here is the rest of the photos for the mechanicals

The following measurements in this photo are for the right hand window winder. You need to mirror image it for the left side..easy..

Have the winder on a flat surface and have it wound up as far as it will go for these measurements..As you can see there is a slight angle on the arm.
I didnt have a protractor to measure this so I figured this was just as easy and better.
JUST TACK WELD AND TEST IN THE CAR...DONT "OVERWELD "AS THEY WILL WORP AND TWIST.

THIS IS WHERE I PUT MY WINDOW SWITCHES




PYRO POSITION


IF YOU FIT A REVERSE CAMERA I PUT MINE HERE USING AN ALUMINUM BRACKET I MADE...DOESNT WOBBLE OR VIBRATE TOO.





I DID ALL THE ELECTRICALS MYSELF, CAUSE I CAN. DO IT 4 A LIVING

HOPE THIS HELPS ANYONE WANTING TO DO IT...TOOK ME AROUND 2 DAYS.......BUGGER ALL FOR SOMETHING I WILL USE EVERY DAY..

GOOD LUCK

hay crozza, ill drop my truck down tomorro for the power window conversion

thanks rob

You gotta be Kiddin me Rob.

Ive seen what mods you've done to that 75 beast of youres.
I reckon you could make the entire doors tilt up like on a Lamborgini.

Lol....