....is there anything else any body can input that would b super dupper and if any one has any parts i might need pm with ur location and a price sunshine coast would be the best location but i might travel for a good deal on a large potion of what i need thanks guys
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wt diffs into nt 1.0 lt
wt diffs into nt 1.0 lt
before any one says it i have read the bible and seached and read it all i just wanna b sure of exactly what i need .... wt housings wt drag link wt axels nt centers for the ratios and and some nt shafts and obviersly and welder ....is there anything else any body can input that would b super dupper and if any one has any parts i might need pm with ur location and a price sunshine coast would be the best location but i might travel for a good deal on a large potion of what i need thanks guys
....is there anything else any body can input that would b super dupper and if any one has any parts i might need pm with ur location and a price sunshine coast would be the best location but i might travel for a good deal on a large potion of what i need thanks guys
WT in NT is easy.
WT into 1.0 is a bit harder.
There's only 5% difference between WT and NT diff ratios. I wouldn't care which I ended up with.
The driveshafts are a bit more of a challenge.
WT and 1.0 driveshafts are not interchangeable.
If you have a 4WD light 1.0 case, you can change your transfer case flanges over to widetrack, but you'll lose your handbrake unless you redrill the handbrake with the WT pattern. (or use the handbrake from the WT diffs along with the WT handbrake cable.
when I converted my 1.0, I did it with a 1.3 transfer at the same time so I used WT flanges on the transfer case.
WT and 1.0 diffs have different diameter tubes. You'll need a set of NT U bolts and U bolt plates. You can sort of get away with the rear and the Passenger side front, but it's not ideal - they're a very tight fit, and 1.0 ubolts are worryingly small. Suzuki knew this which is why they got much bigger once they went to the 1.3.
The driver's side front U bolts are a bit harder. To do a factroy looking job, you need the ubolt saddle (that sits on the top of the axle housing on the driver's side inner) from a 1.3 NT. The WT one is in the wrong place on the diff and won't have the right shape once it's moved up onto the diff to the NT position, and the 1.0 one is too small.
You'll also need WT or custom brake lines - the 1.0 ones will be too short.
That's all I can think of.
I'm in melbourne and can't help with parts- I don't have enough of that stuff myself.
Steve.
WT into 1.0 is a bit harder.
There's only 5% difference between WT and NT diff ratios. I wouldn't care which I ended up with.
The driveshafts are a bit more of a challenge.
WT and 1.0 driveshafts are not interchangeable.
If you have a 4WD light 1.0 case, you can change your transfer case flanges over to widetrack, but you'll lose your handbrake unless you redrill the handbrake with the WT pattern. (or use the handbrake from the WT diffs along with the WT handbrake cable.
when I converted my 1.0, I did it with a 1.3 transfer at the same time so I used WT flanges on the transfer case.
WT and 1.0 diffs have different diameter tubes. You'll need a set of NT U bolts and U bolt plates. You can sort of get away with the rear and the Passenger side front, but it's not ideal - they're a very tight fit, and 1.0 ubolts are worryingly small. Suzuki knew this which is why they got much bigger once they went to the 1.3.
The driver's side front U bolts are a bit harder. To do a factroy looking job, you need the ubolt saddle (that sits on the top of the axle housing on the driver's side inner) from a 1.3 NT. The WT one is in the wrong place on the diff and won't have the right shape once it's moved up onto the diff to the NT position, and the 1.0 one is too small.
You'll also need WT or custom brake lines - the 1.0 ones will be too short.
That's all I can think of.
I'm in melbourne and can't help with parts- I don't have enough of that stuff myself.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
WT 1 litre maruti diffs are just as involved in the install. they are basically a 1.3 WT diff with NT flanges.mrRocky wrote:you need 1ltr w/t diffs, sounds like that would make it easier, i have some but im in perth.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
yeah i no there isnt much differnece between nt and wt ratios but with a 1.0lt on 30s every little bit helps and yeah i was gunna get new u bolts and on the [ring plate side of things do u recon i could drill the u bolt holes out ? ... drive shafts im pretty sure u can change the yoke on the endwith the uni joint coz ive done it betwen nt and 1.0lt b4 if u can think of any reason why its a bad idea let me no .....and yeah i will probs get some brake lines made i got the hook up in that area ..and i will try to sorce a nt ubolt perch for the drivers side front
I wouldn't recommend drilling out the spring plates. They are smaller and have a smaller bolt pattern. Just step up to 1.3 plates to match the u-bolts and axleshaft size.
No, you can't really make 1/2 and 1/2 yokes. It sort of works, but it sort of doesn't, and that depends a lot on whose uni's you use nad how long you expect them to last.
I've done a few like this ( in a pinch) when I ran 1.0 diffs with 1.3 driveshafts but the end result is a too loose or too tight uni ( or both all at once) I wouldn't want to rely on them at all. I did it as a temporary fix. (eveything on my car seems to be a temporary fix)
If you had access to a machine shop you could machine the 1.3 yokes with flat inner surfaces to accept a 1.0 inner circlips, but by the time you did all that you'd be better off swapping the flanges on the transfer case or even swapping a whole 1.3 case in - if you don't have a 4WD light case you'll want one so you can get some gearing in there eventually anyway.
No, you can't really make 1/2 and 1/2 yokes. It sort of works, but it sort of doesn't, and that depends a lot on whose uni's you use nad how long you expect them to last.
I've done a few like this ( in a pinch) when I ran 1.0 diffs with 1.3 driveshafts but the end result is a too loose or too tight uni ( or both all at once) I wouldn't want to rely on them at all. I did it as a temporary fix. (eveything on my car seems to be a temporary fix)
If you had access to a machine shop you could machine the 1.3 yokes with flat inner surfaces to accept a 1.0 inner circlips, but by the time you did all that you'd be better off swapping the flanges on the transfer case or even swapping a whole 1.3 case in - if you don't have a 4WD light case you'll want one so you can get some gearing in there eventually anyway.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
or you could just drill new holes in the diff flanges like i did in between the 1lt holes so that you have the holes for 1lt and 1.3lt (in other words you have 8 holes in your diff flange)
R.I.P. Darryl "DAZZA" Mutch 02/08/1978 - 26/08/2012 aged 34 years ... You will be missed my little brother.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39190&start=150
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39190&start=150
for that to work you'll need a little tiny spigot sleeve - the 1.0 spigot is 1.0mm smaller diameter on a 1.0 than on a 1.3.
Without the spigot to locate the driveshaft yoke in the pinion flange it's too easy to get the alignment wrong and end up with vibrations. IMHO it's a machine shop job.
I tried the "made it myself" approach and failed. I now have a 1.0/1.3 flange on my transfer case input shaft that was made by a machine shop with the machined spigot sleeve and it works a treat.
Steve.
Without the spigot to locate the driveshaft yoke in the pinion flange it's too easy to get the alignment wrong and end up with vibrations. IMHO it's a machine shop job.
I tried the "made it myself" approach and failed. I now have a 1.0/1.3 flange on my transfer case input shaft that was made by a machine shop with the machined spigot sleeve and it works a treat.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
thanks tim that would be good ... but today my mate with wide tracks under his nt said i could have his daffs and all coz we are building a comp truck with bundie and hilux combo with coils so he dont neeed the diffs and stuff so i think in kinda set i guesse not as soon as i wanted but if its free it seems like a waste to buy some
Im "patiently" waiting for someone to give me some WT diffs, tie rod/steering arm and front and rear driveshafts with transfer flanges i have the transfer case, but im building it with reduction gears rear disconnect and twin sticks, so Im taking my time waiting for the diffs and all the rest (mine is 1ltr nt) so if anyone near tamworth has any 1.3 WT gear it would be helpful?!? and if there is anyway of telling which transfer cases are 1.0, or 1.3 WT and NT, because ive been told there isnt much between them all, because i have a spare case (apparently another 1.3) but the flanges have been changed to 1.0 (apparently) so short of opening the box and having a look, are there any identifying marks? numbers? bolts and so on?
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