Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
New V8 cruiser utes
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
New V8 cruiser utes
Hey guys, im in need of a new work ute and im a bit lost as what to get. had a 75 series since new and has been an excellent truck to me. looked at patrols but dont want a 3 ltr. just wanted to know if anyone knows much or heard anything about the new v8 turbo diesel utes??
cheers
cheers
Anything that new is hard to predict reliability behind naturally, but I haven't heard anything major personally.
Heard a rumour once about the injection pumps I think it was, but I was at West End Diesel at the time for an article and they had never heard of it.
I think from memory also, in a 'comparision' between the Patrol (3L) and Cruiser utes in Action, the V8 diesel used less fuel overall than the little 4 pot Nissan.
Heard a rumour once about the injection pumps I think it was, but I was at West End Diesel at the time for an article and they had never heard of it.
I think from memory also, in a 'comparision' between the Patrol (3L) and Cruiser utes in Action, the V8 diesel used less fuel overall than the little 4 pot Nissan.
Lovin the FZJ105-T, bling by Ryano
I have heard that yota were having oil consumption issues with the v8 diesels? like a L per thousand ks on some.
from what i heard they all tend to use oil but it settles down a bit on most models to what toyota consider 'normal' but on some they keep drinking it until people winge enough to get a new donk.
But thats only heresay. friend of a friend has one with issues.
from what i heard they all tend to use oil but it settles down a bit on most models to what toyota consider 'normal' but on some they keep drinking it until people winge enough to get a new donk.
But thats only heresay. friend of a friend has one with issues.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Have a friend that works for a large quarrying firm that have them as their work trucks, who told me the same. Said his uses about a L per monththehanko wrote:I have heard that yota were having oil consumption issues with the v8 diesels? like a L per thousand ks on some.
from what i heard they all tend to use oil but it settles down a bit on most models to what toyota consider 'normal' but on some they keep drinking it until people winge enough to get a new donk.
But thats only heresay. friend of a friend has one with issues.
I'm not a big fan of them, was at 1st. I mean the idea of a V8 Diesel in a cruiser made me . Spent a bit of time in his work ute and its nothing flash, doesn't seem to have THAT much power. Dunno, I could be wrong. But if it was me spending the money i'd hunt around for second hand of the the model before it with low k's. 4.2 TD(?). Tried and proven.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
My major issue with them is the difference between front and rear track width (its too much in my opinion):
1515mm front
1420mm rear
or
1555mm front
1460mm rear
either way 95mm difference!!!
Pulled straight from the horses mouth (to say):
http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/45810.pdf
Yes it could be fixed by different rear rim offset, or different rear axle or whatever, but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
1515mm front
1420mm rear
or
1555mm front
1460mm rear
either way 95mm difference!!!
Pulled straight from the horses mouth (to say):
http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/45810.pdf
Yes it could be fixed by different rear rim offset, or different rear axle or whatever, but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
Plenty of discussion on LCOOL re. these engines.thehanko wrote:I have heard that yota were having oil consumption issues with the v8 diesels? like a L per thousand ks on some.
from what i heard they all tend to use oil but it settles down a bit on most models to what toyota consider 'normal' but on some they keep drinking it until people winge enough to get a new donk.
But thats only heresay. friend of a friend has one with issues.
Toyota has a fix for the oil issue I believe.
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
I've driven a few, drive by wire is shocking, nothing under 1500 revs, So offroad they either stall or have to be drive flat out everywhere. Trying to handbreak start on a steep slope means flat to the boards, dump the clutch and either sit there looking through the clutch smoke or tyre smoke.
Then again, the Nissans have the same issue but the clutch just fries itself straight up on them.
There is not really many options - I think the cruiser is better, but the patrol cab more refined although smaller, patrol has airbags and safety gear, cruiser doesn't.
Oil issues show up on some but not all of them. Usually the light comes on for a top up well before the service is due if the car has the oil issues.
We have had electrical problems causing them to spend some time in limp mode as well.
Depends what you want and what you are doing with it.
Then again, the Nissans have the same issue but the clutch just fries itself straight up on them.
There is not really many options - I think the cruiser is better, but the patrol cab more refined although smaller, patrol has airbags and safety gear, cruiser doesn't.
Oil issues show up on some but not all of them. Usually the light comes on for a top up well before the service is due if the car has the oil issues.
We have had electrical problems causing them to spend some time in limp mode as well.
Depends what you want and what you are doing with it.
Aren't Toyota bringing out a new interor fitted up with air bags soon?
Our old 100 series (ifs) wagon with chip and exhaust was faster and more economical than a mates V8 7X series ute. That said he was talking about chipping it.
Our old 100 series (ifs) wagon with chip and exhaust was faster and more economical than a mates V8 7X series ute. That said he was talking about chipping it.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
Banned
that would be awesome on the telegraph trackpinkfloyddsotm wrote:55 grand , i know what id buy... VE maloo R8
or with a ton of crap in the back
or in 6 years when you try and sell it
i know which the resale would be better
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Highway-Star wrote:My major issue with them is the difference between front and rear track width (its too much in my opinion):
1515mm front
1420mm rear
or
1555mm front
1460mm rear
either way 95mm difference!!!
Pulled straight from the horses mouth (to say):
http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/45810.pdf
Yes it could be fixed by different rear rim offset, or different rear axle or whatever, but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
so could you please explain to me what is the problem with this??
aren't most cars wider track at the front?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
mule75 wrote:Highway-Star wrote:My major issue with them is the difference between front and rear track width (its too much in my opinion):
1515mm front
1420mm rear
or
1555mm front
1460mm rear
either way 95mm difference!!!
Pulled straight from the horses mouth (to say):
http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/45810.pdf
Yes it could be fixed by different rear rim offset, or different rear axle or whatever, but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
so could you please explain to me what is the problem with this??
aren't most cars wider track at the front?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
NOT ALL OF THEM!!!!!
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Dont leaf patrols have roughly the same track difference front to rear?mule75 wrote:Highway-Star wrote:My major issue with them is the difference between front and rear track width (its too much in my opinion):
1515mm front
1420mm rear
or
1555mm front
1460mm rear
either way 95mm difference!!!
Pulled straight from the horses mouth (to say):
http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/45810.pdf
Yes it could be fixed by different rear rim offset, or different rear axle or whatever, but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
so could you please explain to me what is the problem with this??
aren't most cars wider track at the front?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Mine has got 38ks on it & has had no oil issues.
I have got a 3" taipan zorst on it, power not neck snapping but very smooth & deceptive just the same. Easy to find yourself over the limit.
Bit diaapointed with fuel consumption, 15-18 lts/100klm on 315/75/16s, a lot of that is probably my right foot tho.
Rarely will stall in hilly going, although if you keep your foot just resting on the gas it's all good, no dramas just a little change in driving style.
No guts under 1500rpm, I DON'T THINK SO!!!!
Still look like a 75 inside but persoally that doesn't worry me, heaps of aftermarket interior gear already developed & proven for it. GXL like mine is whisper quiet inside & very comfy.
I LOVE IT!!!!
Regards Jaz.
I have got a 3" taipan zorst on it, power not neck snapping but very smooth & deceptive just the same. Easy to find yourself over the limit.
Bit diaapointed with fuel consumption, 15-18 lts/100klm on 315/75/16s, a lot of that is probably my right foot tho.
Rarely will stall in hilly going, although if you keep your foot just resting on the gas it's all good, no dramas just a little change in driving style.
No guts under 1500rpm, I DON'T THINK SO!!!!
Still look like a 75 inside but persoally that doesn't worry me, heaps of aftermarket interior gear already developed & proven for it. GXL like mine is whisper quiet inside & very comfy.
I LOVE IT!!!!
Regards Jaz.
When the going gets hot, move south!
You either cant drive for shit, or cant tell a V8 From a 1HZ.Andrew_C wrote:I've driven a few, drive by wire is shocking, nothing under 1500 revs, So offroad they either stall or have to be drive flat out everywhere. Trying to handbreak start on a steep slope means flat to the boards, dump the clutch and either sit there looking through the clutch smoke or tyre smoke.
Then again, the Nissans have the same issue but the clutch just fries itself straight up on them.
There is not really many options - I think the cruiser is better, but the patrol cab more refined although smaller, patrol has airbags and safety gear, cruiser doesn't.
Oil issues show up on some but not all of them. Usually the light comes on for a top up well before the service is due if the car has the oil issues.
We have had electrical problems causing them to spend some time in limp mode as well.
Depends what you want and what you are doing with it.
We've got 1HZ, 1HD-FTE and 1VD-FTV powered cruisers at work, and the TD6 will get away from the 8 in a straight line on the flat, until well past "Go to jail" speeds. Where the 8 comes into its own is if you hit a hill, or you put something behind them- we were towing a 2.5T trailer (bobcat) behind a 3.7T cruiser ute up the south eastern freeway from Glenn Osmond to Crafers and didnt drop below 100. The TD6 couldnt do the same trip at over 80 in 3rd.
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
Regarding the new 79 V8's, I've got one as a work vehicle. It has uprated suspension (ARB - absolute crap), and an XL service body on the back. The last time it was weighed in with full fuel, water, and me in the drivers seat, it topped the scales at just on 3600kg's. (with the uprated suspension, the limit is 3700).
That said, it goes well considering the weight it's carrying. I've got no real complaints about the power, certainly heaps under 1500, but a hell of a lot more when you get under it. As for fuel consumption, who knows? I have a fuel card, so I'm not really worried about that. But it doesn't seem to be that thirsty when you consider the work it's doing.
As for oil consupmtion, it uses a fair bit. Especially when now it's got 55000 odd kays on it. Yes, Toyota have a fix for it. It's to fill it with "older engine" oil. And that came from the dealer that services it. But they are basicly idiot proof. They have a low oil level light that comes on long before it actually runs out of oil altogether.
But the difference in track is a worry though. Especially as we are still running the stocko splitties. It is particularly noticeable in slippery or rutted terrain, where one of the back wheels will always try to follow the front, resulting in a kind of crab walk. And when you're going downhill on the tar on a nice tight twisty mountain road, like down from Ravensbourne to Esk, or down through Malaney for example, when you push it, under heavy brakes the back will try and overtake the front. It's not the brake bias either, as that issue was sorted. (ARB when they fit the heavier leaves in the back would not touch the proportioning valve, resulting in front lockup, and almost no brakes in the rear).
The reason I say the difference in track is a worry is simply that it causes enough greif to be noticeable, and with a ute that's worth $55k or more, why should you have to pay more to fix it. Especially when Toyota should have fixed the issue in the first place from the factory.
But when you look at what options there are available, like Ute, 4WD, big payload capacity, etc., what else is available that is going to do it as well as this?
And as far as the basic interior goes, it's a 4WD, not a limo. Who cares?
That said, it goes well considering the weight it's carrying. I've got no real complaints about the power, certainly heaps under 1500, but a hell of a lot more when you get under it. As for fuel consumption, who knows? I have a fuel card, so I'm not really worried about that. But it doesn't seem to be that thirsty when you consider the work it's doing.
As for oil consupmtion, it uses a fair bit. Especially when now it's got 55000 odd kays on it. Yes, Toyota have a fix for it. It's to fill it with "older engine" oil. And that came from the dealer that services it. But they are basicly idiot proof. They have a low oil level light that comes on long before it actually runs out of oil altogether.
But the difference in track is a worry though. Especially as we are still running the stocko splitties. It is particularly noticeable in slippery or rutted terrain, where one of the back wheels will always try to follow the front, resulting in a kind of crab walk. And when you're going downhill on the tar on a nice tight twisty mountain road, like down from Ravensbourne to Esk, or down through Malaney for example, when you push it, under heavy brakes the back will try and overtake the front. It's not the brake bias either, as that issue was sorted. (ARB when they fit the heavier leaves in the back would not touch the proportioning valve, resulting in front lockup, and almost no brakes in the rear).
The reason I say the difference in track is a worry is simply that it causes enough greif to be noticeable, and with a ute that's worth $55k or more, why should you have to pay more to fix it. Especially when Toyota should have fixed the issue in the first place from the factory.
But when you look at what options there are available, like Ute, 4WD, big payload capacity, etc., what else is available that is going to do it as well as this?
And as far as the basic interior goes, it's a 4WD, not a limo. Who cares?
2000 SR-5 turbo diesel, dual airlockers, bit of a lift, some 15x8 sunnies, 32" bighorns, a few spotties, and a wireless, and a kiddie seat in the back.
mule75 wrote:Highway-Star wrote:My major issue with them is the difference between front and rear track width (its too much in my opinion):
1515mm front
1420mm rear
or
1555mm front
1460mm rear
either way 95mm difference!!!
Pulled straight from the horses mouth (to say):
http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/45810.pdf
Yes it could be fixed by different rear rim offset, or different rear axle or whatever, but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
so could you please explain to me what is the problem with this??
aren't most cars wider track at the front?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Allot of cars do have wider track widths at the front, and allot also have it at the back. however not too many cars have it to such an extreme. For example; the previous 79 series and the live axled lux were 15mm wider at the front. 15mm is fine, 95mm is just rediculous. Basically the vehicle tracking characteristics will be all messed up. It will be extra noticable in an unladen ute with a light rear. Micky-Lux's post directly above describes what Im trying to say:
Micky-Lux wrote:But the difference in track is a worry though. Especially as we are still running the stocko splitties. It is particularly noticeable in slippery or rutted terrain, where one of the back wheels will always try to follow the front, resulting in a kind of crab walk. And when you're going downhill on the tar on a nice tight twisty mountain road, like down from Ravensbourne to Esk, or down through Malaney for example, when you push it, under heavy brakes the back will try and overtake the front. It's not the brake bias either, as that issue was sorted. (ARB when they fit the heavier leaves in the back would not touch the proportioning valve, resulting in front lockup, and almost no brakes in the rear).
The reason I say the difference in track is a worry is simply that it causes enough greif to be noticeable, and with a ute that's worth $55k or more, why should you have to pay more to fix it. Especially when Toyota should have fixed the issue in the first place from the factory.
vk7ybi wrote:You shouldnt, its not broken.Highway-Star wrote:but why should you have to fix a brand new car that cost over 55grand?
OK, so broken is not the right word. But I still argue its not built as it should have been.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
Banned
thrashlux wrote:that would be awesome on the telegraph trackpinkfloyddsotm wrote:55 grand , i know what id buy... VE maloo R8
or with a ton of crap in the back
or in 6 years when you try and sell it
i know which the resale would be better
wasnt making out a maloo would be a good substitute , just simply comparing luxury against a plain boring cruiser with a turbo v8 in it ,is really the only thing going for it ..how could the two be in the same price bracket, you'd have to be insane to pay that much for a cruiser.its got nothing on a maloo besides being 4wd and carrying load.
the thing is there is nothing else out therepinkfloyddsotm wrote:thrashlux wrote:that would be awesome on the telegraph trackpinkfloyddsotm wrote:55 grand , i know what id buy... VE maloo R8
or with a ton of crap in the back
or in 6 years when you try and sell it
i know which the resale would be better
wasnt making out a maloo would be a good substitute , just simply comparing luxury against a plain boring cruiser with a turbo v8 in it ,is really the only thing going for it ..how could the two be in the same price bracket, you'd have to be insane to pay that much for a cruiser.its got nothing on a maloo besides being 4wd and carrying load.
that can carry that load
in that comfort
across that terain
at those speeds
while delivering fuel economy
and thats what this is a 4X4 forum
what can a maloo do other than break the law or be a show pony
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
cruiser
Just my 2 cents.
I have heard from 2 dealers and heaps of mates out the mines that No.7 pot either seizes up or drops it straight out the side of the block. no lie guys.
55 grand is a lot of money for that little v8 cruiser badge. spend 35 on the older, more proven 4.2TD i say. much cheaper and then you can put heaps of gear on it. for even less than what it costs for a new one.
I have heard from 2 dealers and heaps of mates out the mines that No.7 pot either seizes up or drops it straight out the side of the block. no lie guys.
55 grand is a lot of money for that little v8 cruiser badge. spend 35 on the older, more proven 4.2TD i say. much cheaper and then you can put heaps of gear on it. for even less than what it costs for a new one.
Wanted.... 4.88 or 4.56 front GQ diff center. Also wanted... GQ rear diff complete.
pinkfloyddsotm wrote:thrashlux wrote:that would be awesome on the telegraph trackpinkfloyddsotm wrote:55 grand , i know what id buy... VE maloo R8
or with a ton of crap in the back
or in 6 years when you try and sell it
i know which the resale would be better
wasnt making out a maloo would be a good substitute , just simply comparing luxury against a plain boring cruiser with a turbo v8 in it ,is really the only thing going for it ..how could the two be in the same price bracket, you'd have to be insane to pay that much for a cruiser.its got nothing on a maloo besides being 4wd and carrying load.
you would have to be insane to pay that much for a commodore ute
at least after 12 months the cruiser will still have a market value of $50k+..... can't say the same for the maloo(commodore)'s value which will drop like a hot scone.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 60 guests